Reverse locked out-Searched
Reverse locked out-Searched I know this question has been asked many times before but I've searched and I'm tired of reading threw the 10 pages or so that came up.
I decided to take my car out today for the first time after my cam install and the reverse lock out wouldn't release. It was working fine last week before the install and I didn't touch anything on the trans.
This part might be better off in the PCM section but maybe the computer acting strange has something to do with the lock out. I have started the car and let it warm up 3-4 times since putting the cam in and it has ran normal every time. The cam is pretty small, 224/227 114, and the idle had been almost like stock. Today when I started the car it died 2-3 times then didn't want to idle. After holding the rpm's up for 10-15 sec or so it would idle fine again so I start to back out and the car would not go into reverse.
The eng sen fuse under the hood is good. Thats about the only thing I found to check when I searched. What is the next step?
I decided to take my car out today for the first time after my cam install and the reverse lock out wouldn't release. It was working fine last week before the install and I didn't touch anything on the trans.
This part might be better off in the PCM section but maybe the computer acting strange has something to do with the lock out. I have started the car and let it warm up 3-4 times since putting the cam in and it has ran normal every time. The cam is pretty small, 224/227 114, and the idle had been almost like stock. Today when I started the car it died 2-3 times then didn't want to idle. After holding the rpm's up for 10-15 sec or so it would idle fine again so I start to back out and the car would not go into reverse.
The eng sen fuse under the hood is good. Thats about the only thing I found to check when I searched. What is the next step?
If by wouldn't release you mean there was a high load to get into the reverse gate, the solenoid is prolly not getting powered. It reduces the load with power. I would check the wiring to the solenoid( did you installl a skip eliminator...maybe in the wrong solenoid?). Reverse has a black colored plug . Besure the balck plug is in the solenoid with the black connector.
It has a skip shift eliminator but it has been installed and working correctly for about 4 years. I didn't mess with anything on the trans when installing the cam. Yes, I mean there is a high load to get 5th/6th so you can push it up into reverse.
ttt- Just downloaded the service manual. Checked the connector for the solenoid today and it had power when I turned the key on.
Had to edit this post because of someone's bad info I got when I searched. Had me checking the wrong connector.
Had to edit this post because of someone's bad info I got when I searched. Had me checking the wrong connector.
Last edited by Black01M6SS; Aug 11, 2006 at 10:04 PM.
Pulled the solenoid out and checked it. The thing ohm's out around 14 ohms and clicks, releasing pressure, when hooked up to the car battery with jumper wires. The connecter going into the solenoid had 11.8v with the key turned on. Here is the strange part... The solenoid does not click or do anything when the connecter is plugged back in.
Works when I try it at the battery, doesn't work with the connecter. I know someone is going to say that the connecter is loose but I shoved 2 pieces of wire into the thing and tested them. They had power, touched them to the solenoid and again, nothing. Kinda seems like there isn't enough amperage to activate it but the engine SEN fuse that it supposedly works off of is only 20A so it must not take much.
Works when I try it at the battery, doesn't work with the connecter. I know someone is going to say that the connecter is loose but I shoved 2 pieces of wire into the thing and tested them. They had power, touched them to the solenoid and again, nothing. Kinda seems like there isn't enough amperage to activate it but the engine SEN fuse that it supposedly works off of is only 20A so it must not take much.
Last edited by Black01M6SS; Aug 12, 2006 at 12:08 AM.
Originally Posted by Black01M6SS
Pulled the solenoid out and checked it. The thing ohm's out around 14 ohms and clicks, releasing pressure, which hooked up to the car battery with jumper wires. The connecter going into the solenoid had 11.8v with the key turned on. Here is the strange part... The solenoid does not click or do anything when the connecter is plugged back in.
Works when I try it at the battery, doesn't work with the connecter. I know someone is going to say that the connecter is loose but I shoved 2 pieces of wire into the thing and tested them. They had power, touched them to the solenoid and again, nothing. Kinda seems like there isn't enough amperage to activate it but the engine SEN fuse that it supposedly works off of is only 20A so it must not take much.
Works when I try it at the battery, doesn't work with the connecter. I know someone is going to say that the connecter is loose but I shoved 2 pieces of wire into the thing and tested them. They had power, touched them to the solenoid and again, nothing. Kinda seems like there isn't enough amperage to activate it but the engine SEN fuse that it supposedly works off of is only 20A so it must not take much.
Basically the reverse lock out solenoid works when I run jumper wires off the battery to it but does nothing when I plug the connecter into it. The connecter has almost the same voltage at it as the battery has.
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Verdad Gallardo I don't think voltage is the problem. There was 11.8v at the connecter. The fuse for that wire is only a 20 amp fuse so I don't think it takes much to activate the solenoid. I have no idea why it would work at the battery but not work useing the voltage at the connecter. Its not a connection problem either. I stuck some wires in the connecter and then touched them to the solenoid just like I did at the battery and it still didn't work.
I checked it out some more today. The ground side of the connecter has really high resistance. Enough that my meter can get a voltage reading from the connecter but its not a very good ground. I'm guessing the conputer controls the ground side and is not giving it ground. Anyone have any clue whats causing this?
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Originally Posted by Black01M6SS
I checked it out some more today. The ground side of the connecter has really high resistance. Enough that my meter can get a voltage reading from the connecter but its not a very good ground. I'm guessing the conputer controls the ground side and is not giving it ground. Anyone have any clue whats causing this?
Farmer2, I've tried that about 100 times. It does nothing. It will work if I use the power from the connecter then ground it with another ground wire. I have taken the solenoid out and checked it on the battery and it works fine.
The resistance in the ground wire stays around 12k ohms turning the key on or off while trying to shift into reverse. I assume that the computer is not grounding it since a good ground would have a much lower resistance.
Maybe I should make a post in the computer section. The ground wire does not change its resistance no matter what I do.
The resistance in the ground wire stays around 12k ohms turning the key on or off while trying to shift into reverse. I assume that the computer is not grounding it since a good ground would have a much lower resistance.
Maybe I should make a post in the computer section. The ground wire does not change its resistance no matter what I do.
I was wrong in that last post. I was not leaving the key off long enough. Turning the key off and back on does not give it enough time to change. If I leave the key off for 5 seconds or so then the ground circuit will open.
With the key on the resistance to ground stays around 12k ohms. With the car running the resistance drops to around 7k ohms. Either way this seems like way to much resistance and the solenoid does nothing when hooked up to the connecter yet works fine if I give it a good ground.
With the key on the resistance to ground stays around 12k ohms. With the car running the resistance drops to around 7k ohms. Either way this seems like way to much resistance and the solenoid does nothing when hooked up to the connecter yet works fine if I give it a good ground.
Originally Posted by Black01M6SS
I was wrong in that last post. I was not leaving the key off long enough. Turning the key off and back on does not give it enough time to change. If I leave the key off for 5 seconds or so then the ground circuit will open.
With the key on the resistance to ground stays around 12k ohms. With the car running the resistance drops to around 7k ohms. Either way this seems like way to much resistance and the solenoid does nothing when hooked up to the connecter yet works fine if I give it a good ground.
With the key on the resistance to ground stays around 12k ohms. With the car running the resistance drops to around 7k ohms. Either way this seems like way to much resistance and the solenoid does nothing when hooked up to the connecter yet works fine if I give it a good ground.
The PCM controls the ground going to the solenoid. If I wanted I could run a ground wire to a switch then to the solenoid and it would work but I would really like to find out why the thing does not work correctly to begin with.
Yeah, I made sure it wasn't that the first time I messed with it though.
Stick 2 pieces of wire down in the connecter, check for voltage in those wires, then touch them to the solenoid. Nothing.
Stick 2 pieces of wire down in the connecter, check for voltage in those wires, then touch them to the solenoid. Nothing.
OK sounds like you half chased this problem.
Go to the PCM. Red connector C2 terminal 44 Light Green wire.
Look here
http://www.ls2.com/boggs/torques/2001pinpcm.htm
Check for voltage there key on engine off.
It should be 12 volts there w/ the solenoid not energized. Then when the PCM grounds it & the voltage should drop bellow a volt. Dont ohm test it it wont tell you nothing on a circuit being loaded.
You need to check the voltage & see if it is correct.
If it has voltage at the PCM on the reverse lockout controll wire then you can say;
It has voltage to the solenoid
The wire from the solenoid to the PCM is sound so far
Test that & see what you come up with.....
Otherwise I'll be writing a book for all the possibilitys tests etc.
Go to the PCM. Red connector C2 terminal 44 Light Green wire.
Look here
http://www.ls2.com/boggs/torques/2001pinpcm.htm
Check for voltage there key on engine off.
It should be 12 volts there w/ the solenoid not energized. Then when the PCM grounds it & the voltage should drop bellow a volt. Dont ohm test it it wont tell you nothing on a circuit being loaded.
You need to check the voltage & see if it is correct.
If it has voltage at the PCM on the reverse lockout controll wire then you can say;
It has voltage to the solenoid
The wire from the solenoid to the PCM is sound so far
Test that & see what you come up with.....
Otherwise I'll be writing a book for all the possibilitys tests etc.