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ligth flywheels vs heavy

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Old 09-18-2006, 05:26 AM
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Default ligth flywheels vs heavy

installed my ls2 flywheel yesterday,

it wass a little heavyer than the stock one,

i feel like the cars is lazyer under 3k rpm, and i dont like that,

i also installed međ loudmouth.. and its maybe one reason to,

i want a ligthweigth flywheel, what do you guys to say about it??

i maybe should dyno test my car like it is, and she what is goin on..

what flywheels are you running, and how dues it feel,
Old 09-18-2006, 03:02 PM
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I could be wrong, but I a heavier flywheel adds to the rotating mass wich should give you an increase in torque but I guess will require a little more power to get it spinning... a light weight flywheel will allow the engine to rev quicker due to less rotating mass helping peak numbers and getting an engine into the "power band" quicker while reducing the low end torque a bit. Someone correct me if i'm mistaken but it makes sense to me
Old 09-19-2006, 01:20 AM
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keep in mind a lightweight flywheel may not last as long depending on your use
Old 09-19-2006, 03:58 PM
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Light Flywheels- Road Racing
There meant for applictions that vary the RPMs over a great range. They allow the engine to rev quicker and slow down faster. Usually made from aluminun, they usually warp alot easier than steel ones.


Heavier Flywheels- Daily Drivers and Drag racing.
For daily drivers because there usually made out of Steel and wont warp as easily as their aluminum couterparts.
For Drag racing because they keep the engine in the upper RPMs longer when you let off the gas due to their greater mass and it makes it harder to slow the engine. down.

Last edited by Cumbias; 09-19-2006 at 04:01 PM. Reason: addition
Old 09-19-2006, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by kpforce1
I could be wrong, but I a heavier flywheel adds to the rotating mass wich should give you an increase in torque but I guess will require a little more power to get it spinning... a light weight flywheel will allow the engine to rev quicker due to less rotating mass helping peak numbers and getting an engine into the "power band" quicker while reducing the low end torque a bit. Someone correct me if i'm mistaken but it makes sense to me
Whoa

Reducing low end torque...not quite

It deals with the concept of inertia. Not too easy to define though, but generally, it is how much an object resists acceleration. Not just movement - actually changing velocity (angular and/or otherwise).

A light weight flywheel is easier for the engine to spin, plain and simple. It doesn't take as much energy to get it going to 6000+ RPMs. When I switched to my current RPS clutch setup, it weighed in a whopping 20 lbs less than my Ram Powergrip with the Ram billet steel flywheel. As soon as I started the engine, I noticed a difference. It fired right up and came up to operating RPMs much more quickly than before. Low end response is great, as well as upper RPM power production (it makes it through the RPM range quicker). Inertia is related to mass times the distance squared - the farther away the mass is from the axis of rotation, the harder it is to rotate. That's why an aluminum flywheel works so well (better than a lightweight driveshaft, for example). It lowers the mass of an object that is pretty much stuck at being big with a great deal of mass away from the axis of rotation.

But the inertia thing is a double edged sword. Since it doesn't take as much energy to accelerate up the RPM band, it also doesn't take as much energy to cause it to decelerate. This is a problem when starting a heavy car from a dead stop (read - daily driving, drag racing, etc) - the tendency is for the engine to bog. Now, it doesn't take rocket science to figure out how to correct for this - you either swap to a lower rear gear ratio (like going from 3.42s to 4.11s) to increase the mechanical advantage, or you simply give the car more gas off the line.

Giving the car more gas off the line will create more slip, which will lead to more wear. That's the nature of a clutch, however. It is a wear item.

Also, keep in mind that an aluminum flywheel isn't just aluminum. They all have to have an insert of some sort where the clutch disc friction surface comes into contact with it. Aluminum just wouldn't work by itself. Warping - well, I haven't seen it with mine yet, and I doubt that it will either. Aluminum dissipates heat very well, and as long as the friction surface is designed well (taking into account the expansion/contraction of the insert), fatigue shouldn't be an issue either.

Bottom line - if you want to increase the responsiveness of your car, swap to an aluminum flywheel. It'll definitely give you that. Most people that speak on the subject have never even owned one, and really don't know what they are talking about. Getting them to admit that...well...good luck.




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