Drill Mod Question (Already read the article)
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Launching!
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: British Columbia, Canada
Drill Mod Question (Already read the article) I can see it's a matter of just drilling out the restriction. But the parts I need to know is what else (sorta mechanically challenged).
I see it's the only steel braided line on the driver side. Do I have to jack up the car and go underneath?
Or, can I just reach down and unbolt it....Will fluid leak out? Do I have to drain and re-fill system? Is the fluid run in with the brake fluid?
Do I have to take the line out of the engine compartment, or can I reach it from the top of the engine bay...
Any help would be appreciated...I think it's time, as my pedal feels messed when I go WOT.
Thx, much appreciated.
I see it's the only steel braided line on the driver side. Do I have to jack up the car and go underneath?
Or, can I just reach down and unbolt it....Will fluid leak out? Do I have to drain and re-fill system? Is the fluid run in with the brake fluid?
Do I have to take the line out of the engine compartment, or can I reach it from the top of the engine bay...
Any help would be appreciated...I think it's time, as my pedal feels messed when I go WOT.
Thx, much appreciated.
You will need to remove the master cylinder, but this article pretty much sums it all up:
http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...sity/index.htm
I'd recommend removing the driver's side seat in addition to all of the under-steering wheel paneling to make it easier to crawl up under there. You can get the master cylinder out from the top, but skinny, long arms help.
You'll need to get the car up in the air to get to the quick disconnect for the master -> slave connection - a little fluid will come out, but not much. When you remove the line, you'll lose a good amount of fluid. This means you'll be rebleeding the whole system. Use a DOT 3 or 4 fluid, but not a DOT 5 (not compatible).
http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...sity/index.htm
I'd recommend removing the driver's side seat in addition to all of the under-steering wheel paneling to make it easier to crawl up under there. You can get the master cylinder out from the top, but skinny, long arms help.
You'll need to get the car up in the air to get to the quick disconnect for the master -> slave connection - a little fluid will come out, but not much. When you remove the line, you'll lose a good amount of fluid. This means you'll be rebleeding the whole system. Use a DOT 3 or 4 fluid, but not a DOT 5 (not compatible).
Originally Posted by Xtnct00WS6
I think I used dot 4 when I bled clutch. Why would dot 5 not be compatible? Doesn't it just have a higher boiling point?
Thanks
Thanks
Pulling the slave out = not too bad, reinstalling the slave = large PITA. +1 on the small arms and hands help. If you have a friend on the inside of the car help you line up the U bolt when reinstalling, that helps. I almost removed the brake booster, it was that bad. HAHA good luck. I love F bodys.
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Originally Posted by Firechikn
Pulling the slave out = not too bad, reinstalling the slave = large PITA. +1 on the small arms and hands help. If you have a friend on the inside of the car help you line up the U bolt when reinstalling, that helps. I almost removed the brake booster, it was that bad. HAHA good luck. I love F bodys.
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