LS7 clutch, aluminum flywheel, B&M shifter
#21
I broke my 10 bolt with 4.10s and sticky street tires on the STREET.
Just dont upgrade your gears, slip the clutch from 2200rpm or so and you'll be fine.. probably cut like 1.8 60s on some nittos.
Just dont upgrade your gears, slip the clutch from 2200rpm or so and you'll be fine.. probably cut like 1.8 60s on some nittos.
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Originally Posted by SladeX
The LS2 flywheel is steel.
It's the fidanza LS2 flywheel that can come in aluminum.
The increased weight will actually help in a powershift/speed shift situation because it holds more inertial energy in the flywheel.
This is a moot point in an aluminum LS2 flywheel/LS7 clutch combo because it weighs almost as much as stock.
It's the fidanza LS2 flywheel that can come in aluminum.
The increased weight will actually help in a powershift/speed shift situation because it holds more inertial energy in the flywheel.
This is a moot point in an aluminum LS2 flywheel/LS7 clutch combo because it weighs almost as much as stock.
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Originally Posted by Specialized
I broke my 10 bolt with 4.10s and sticky street tires on the STREET.
Just dont upgrade your gears, slip the clutch from 2200rpm or so and you'll be fine.. probably cut like 1.8 60s on some nittos.
Just dont upgrade your gears, slip the clutch from 2200rpm or so and you'll be fine.. probably cut like 1.8 60s on some nittos.
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Originally Posted by SladeX
The LS2 flywheel is steel.
It's the fidanza LS2 flywheel that can come in aluminum.
The increased weight will actually help in a powershift/speed shift situation because it holds more inertial energy in the flywheel.
This is a moot point in an aluminum LS2 flywheel/LS7 clutch combo because it weighs almost as much as stock.
It's the fidanza LS2 flywheel that can come in aluminum.
The increased weight will actually help in a powershift/speed shift situation because it holds more inertial energy in the flywheel.
This is a moot point in an aluminum LS2 flywheel/LS7 clutch combo because it weighs almost as much as stock.
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Originally Posted by XpEdItIoUs
So a steel ls2 and ls7 clutch combo weighs more than stock?
to the guy below me. Try Byunspeed or Try Ebay. make sure it the vette LS2 aluminum and not the GTO ls2 aluminum, to fit the F body.
Also to the last guy. I dont think it transmits less torque, in fact a lighter rotation of mass increases the Torque going to the wheels. It eats up less power.
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Originally Posted by Project GatTagO
You guys should really do some reading befor eyou start making all these claims about aluminum flywheel vs. steel flywheels.
Andrew
Andrew
#32
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Originally Posted by XpEdItIoUs
Im not saying I know about them, Im trying to learn so i know what my best choice would be. What do you think? should I go with aluminum of steel? My car is going to be a daily driver.
Andrew
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Originally Posted by Project GatTagO
Do a search. This has been covered about a million times.
Andrew
Andrew
#35
The LS2 steel flywheel is almost 2lbs heavier than the stock LS1 flywheel. The LS7 Pressure Plate is a little more than 7lbs heavier than the LS1 pressureplate. The LS7 clutch has more material and a beefier spring setup, but it weighs almost 1/2 lb heavier.
Since you're only changing the flywheel from steel to aluminum you save around 10lbs off the LS1 flywheel Resulting in a net loss of only 3 lbs of total rotational weight.
Odds of you "feeling" that weight difference even if it is rotational mass is moot. Only a dyno and a consistent driver (his timeslip) will notice that weight savings.
If you had the LS2 steel flywheel, you WILL notice a difference in the way the engine revs up and down as at that point, you're almost shaving off 12 lbs over the LS2/LS7 combo.
So here's the low down.
LS1->LS2/LS7 = +~9lbs. Engine will rev up slower than stock, fairly noticable. Easier to launch (try idle launching in 2nd and 3rd to see what I mean). Revs will hang longer on powershifting making easier high rpm shifts, rev matching on street takes a bit of adjustment (ie slow down your shifts as the revs stay higher a bit longer)
LS1->LS2 Fidanza(aluminum)/LS7 = -3lbs = near stock engine characteristics and pedal/launch feel. The LS7 Pressure plate is a bit tougher to press in so that's where you'll notice the biggest change. Feels like stock.
LS2 Steel/LS7 -> LS2 Fidanza(aluminum)/LS7 = -~12lbs. Will feel like it's revving like a race car if you are doing this comparison, but it's all in your head. You just returned it to stock characteristics.
Since you're only changing the flywheel from steel to aluminum you save around 10lbs off the LS1 flywheel Resulting in a net loss of only 3 lbs of total rotational weight.
Odds of you "feeling" that weight difference even if it is rotational mass is moot. Only a dyno and a consistent driver (his timeslip) will notice that weight savings.
If you had the LS2 steel flywheel, you WILL notice a difference in the way the engine revs up and down as at that point, you're almost shaving off 12 lbs over the LS2/LS7 combo.
So here's the low down.
LS1->LS2/LS7 = +~9lbs. Engine will rev up slower than stock, fairly noticable. Easier to launch (try idle launching in 2nd and 3rd to see what I mean). Revs will hang longer on powershifting making easier high rpm shifts, rev matching on street takes a bit of adjustment (ie slow down your shifts as the revs stay higher a bit longer)
LS1->LS2 Fidanza(aluminum)/LS7 = -3lbs = near stock engine characteristics and pedal/launch feel. The LS7 Pressure plate is a bit tougher to press in so that's where you'll notice the biggest change. Feels like stock.
LS2 Steel/LS7 -> LS2 Fidanza(aluminum)/LS7 = -~12lbs. Will feel like it's revving like a race car if you are doing this comparison, but it's all in your head. You just returned it to stock characteristics.
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Originally Posted by SladeX
The LS2 steel flywheel is almost 2lbs heavier than the stock LS1 flywheel. The LS7 Pressure Plate is a little more than 7lbs heavier than the LS1 pressureplate. The LS7 clutch has more material and a beefier spring setup, but it weighs almost 1/2 lb heavier.
Since you're only changing the flywheel from steel to aluminum you save around 10lbs off the LS1 flywheel Resulting in a net loss of only 3 lbs of total rotational weight.
Odds of you "feeling" that weight difference even if it is rotational mass is moot. Only a dyno and a consistent driver (his timeslip) will notice that weight savings.
If you had the LS2 steel flywheel, you WILL notice a difference in the way the engine revs up and down as at that point, you're almost shaving off 12 lbs over the LS2/LS7 combo.
So here's the low down.
LS1->LS2/LS7 = +~9lbs. Engine will rev up slower than stock, fairly noticable. Easier to launch (try idle launching in 2nd and 3rd to see what I mean). Revs will hang longer on powershifting making easier high rpm shifts, rev matching on street takes a bit of adjustment (ie slow down your shifts as the revs stay higher a bit longer)
LS1->LS2 Fidanza(aluminum)/LS7 = -3lbs = near stock engine characteristics and pedal/launch feel. The LS7 Pressure plate is a bit tougher to press in so that's where you'll notice the biggest change. Feels like stock.
LS2 Steel/LS7 -> LS2 Fidanza(aluminum)/LS7 = -~12lbs. Will feel like it's revving like a race car if you are doing this comparison, but it's all in your head. You just returned it to stock characteristics.
Since you're only changing the flywheel from steel to aluminum you save around 10lbs off the LS1 flywheel Resulting in a net loss of only 3 lbs of total rotational weight.
Odds of you "feeling" that weight difference even if it is rotational mass is moot. Only a dyno and a consistent driver (his timeslip) will notice that weight savings.
If you had the LS2 steel flywheel, you WILL notice a difference in the way the engine revs up and down as at that point, you're almost shaving off 12 lbs over the LS2/LS7 combo.
So here's the low down.
LS1->LS2/LS7 = +~9lbs. Engine will rev up slower than stock, fairly noticable. Easier to launch (try idle launching in 2nd and 3rd to see what I mean). Revs will hang longer on powershifting making easier high rpm shifts, rev matching on street takes a bit of adjustment (ie slow down your shifts as the revs stay higher a bit longer)
LS1->LS2 Fidanza(aluminum)/LS7 = -3lbs = near stock engine characteristics and pedal/launch feel. The LS7 Pressure plate is a bit tougher to press in so that's where you'll notice the biggest change. Feels like stock.
LS2 Steel/LS7 -> LS2 Fidanza(aluminum)/LS7 = -~12lbs. Will feel like it's revving like a race car if you are doing this comparison, but it's all in your head. You just returned it to stock characteristics.
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Thanks for the information. Could someone clear up a few things? I should be able to run a Fidanza LS2 aluminum flywheel with an LS7 disc and pressure plate, with an LS1 Pilot Bearing..correct? Do I need a different starter or are the LS1 and LS2 flywheels the same size?
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Originally Posted by SladeX
The LS2 steel flywheel is almost 2lbs heavier than the stock LS1 flywheel. The LS7 Pressure Plate is a little more than 7lbs heavier than the LS1 pressureplate. The LS7 clutch has more material and a beefier spring setup, but it weighs almost 1/2 lb heavier.
Since you're only changing the flywheel from steel to aluminum you save around 10lbs off the LS1 flywheel Resulting in a net loss of only 3 lbs of total rotational weight.
Odds of you "feeling" that weight difference even if it is rotational mass is moot. Only a dyno and a consistent driver (his timeslip) will notice that weight savings.
If you had the LS2 steel flywheel, you WILL notice a difference in the way the engine revs up and down as at that point, you're almost shaving off 12 lbs over the LS2/LS7 combo.
So here's the low down.
LS1->LS2/LS7 = +~9lbs. Engine will rev up slower than stock, fairly noticable. Easier to launch (try idle launching in 2nd and 3rd to see what I mean). Revs will hang longer on powershifting making easier high rpm shifts, rev matching on street takes a bit of adjustment (ie slow down your shifts as the revs stay higher a bit longer)
LS1->LS2 Fidanza(aluminum)/LS7 = -3lbs = near stock engine characteristics and pedal/launch feel. The LS7 Pressure plate is a bit tougher to press in so that's where you'll notice the biggest change. Feels like stock.
LS2 Steel/LS7 -> LS2 Fidanza(aluminum)/LS7 = -~12lbs. Will feel like it's revving like a race car if you are doing this comparison, but it's all in your head. You just returned it to stock characteristics.
Since you're only changing the flywheel from steel to aluminum you save around 10lbs off the LS1 flywheel Resulting in a net loss of only 3 lbs of total rotational weight.
Odds of you "feeling" that weight difference even if it is rotational mass is moot. Only a dyno and a consistent driver (his timeslip) will notice that weight savings.
If you had the LS2 steel flywheel, you WILL notice a difference in the way the engine revs up and down as at that point, you're almost shaving off 12 lbs over the LS2/LS7 combo.
So here's the low down.
LS1->LS2/LS7 = +~9lbs. Engine will rev up slower than stock, fairly noticable. Easier to launch (try idle launching in 2nd and 3rd to see what I mean). Revs will hang longer on powershifting making easier high rpm shifts, rev matching on street takes a bit of adjustment (ie slow down your shifts as the revs stay higher a bit longer)
LS1->LS2 Fidanza(aluminum)/LS7 = -3lbs = near stock engine characteristics and pedal/launch feel. The LS7 Pressure plate is a bit tougher to press in so that's where you'll notice the biggest change. Feels like stock.
LS2 Steel/LS7 -> LS2 Fidanza(aluminum)/LS7 = -~12lbs. Will feel like it's revving like a race car if you are doing this comparison, but it's all in your head. You just returned it to stock characteristics.