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What's the hot new clutch fix?

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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 07:45 AM
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Default What's the hot new clutch fix?

Hey guys,

It's been a while since I've really looked into this stuff so bear with me.

What's the newest and best solution for the slave/master issues with the clutch system?

When I last had to fix mine it was the 288 slave and upgraded master. (That should tell you when I fixed mine....)

What's the fix now? I've got a friend who's having trouble with it.

He even ported the master, but I thought there was a better fix than that.

Thanks everyone,
Alan
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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 11:28 AM
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He Lives!!

Wasup mang



What issues is he having?


Slipping?

Not disengaging?

Stuck pedal?




Rick


Aztek T/A WS7 & 70 RAM AIR IV T/A
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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 12:39 PM
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Shhh... you're going to blow my cover.

You still in Orlando? I have to head up that way next week. Maybe we can grab a bite to eat.

You can read all about it here.

http://www.need2speed.com/vb_forums/...ad.php?t=24482


Thanks Rick,
Alan
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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by NewZ
Shhh... you're going to blow my cover.

You still in Orlando? I have to head up that way next week. Maybe we can grab a bite to eat.

You can read all about it here.

http://www.need2speed.com/vb_forums/...ad.php?t=24482


Thanks Rick,
Alan


I'll be in town for a few more days, then I'm heading back home, then i'm gunna drive the whole family back to Orlando for the Holidays then back home to NYC before school starts


Hmm, I can't remember my password over there and it's taking forever to get it in email, but I'd say he needs to make sure the hydraulics are in fact updated and not just new stock that was left on the shelf at the dealer (I had a problem with this before)....

Make sure it's a "288" slave and a "277" master....

Since he did the drill mod and the system was completely dry (this usually becomes a pita to bleed), I'd recommend taking it to a shop and having it power bled (not the dinky mighty vac, but an actual pressure bleeder)....




Rick
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Old Dec 15, 2006 | 10:31 AM
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Thanks man, I'll pass it on.

I'll be out there next Tuesday, leaving Wednesday.

Drop me an email at AlanEosso@Carfax.Com and if you're around we can get together.

Alan
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Old Dec 15, 2006 | 10:32 AM
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Oh, and here's his problem. You'll find it's going to sound all too familliar.

Originally Posted by Fugasi
Ok, this thing is really beginning to **** me off. I have replaced EVERYTHING to do with the clutch setup. LS7 disk and pressure plate, LS2 flywheel, upgraded LS1 slave cylinder, new pilot bushing, new master cylinder and did the drill mod on the master to slave line, completely flushed the entire system, so absolutely no old fluid in there...

Everything felt great from last Saturday, when I did the master cylinder until yesterday after my first 2 passes at DHII. After the next couple runs, I could smell burnt clutch a bit and the pedal was spongy again. Now, burnt clutch smell is gone, pedal still feels spongy, it's become a bit harder to get it into gear (every gear), about half the shifts, the pedal will stick at the bottom of the free play area (about half to 3/4 of an inch from all the way from the floor). I have no idea what could be causing this. Engagement point seems to be where it needs to be, not too close to the floor, so I don't think I'd need to shim the slave cylinder. I'm starting to think the new slave cylinder I put in was just bad from the beginning.

Thoughts, opinions, need more info? Lemme hear it....
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Old Dec 15, 2006 | 10:51 AM
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heres my newest fix-all for clutch woes:

clutch to -3an fittings... two for $17.99
read post #12 here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...clutch+fitting

plus some -3AN line... it just so happens that you can get premade, braided stainless steel brake lines... hint.

and to finish it all off.... one of these is really desired:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...t=bleeder+line




basically i'll have:
  • my larger Mcleod master cyl
  • an -3 AN line that has no restrictions in it ( BTW -3AN is larger then the clutch fittings... its larger then the 1/8" you drill out one of the restrictors to.. ect..)
  • a remote mount clutch bleeder so fluid doesnt drip in the bellhousing or get on the clutch..
  • a solo bleeder on that remote clutch bleeder, so fluid changes litterally take less then 5 mins, by myself.
seems like the hot setup to me.
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