well as far as mine goes. I did upgrade to a 01-02 master and also did the drill mod at the same time. Used a new slave and throw out bearing aswell. I have a beater so Im not even diving my TA a whole lot. Guess Im not the only one with this little concern...I just dont want to mess anything up. Spent $$$ and not tying to loose more!

 

OK, I did this and mine started to pull forward at 3500 or so. What is messes up that causes this. Damn this sucks!

 

If you figure it out let me know! We are in teh same boat. I think its one of 2 things: either I have air left in the system somehow or my master cylinder is malfunctioning.

I have a tough time believing I have air left in the system. I have bled the clutch 5 seperate times using the method textralia recommended. For the record, having the drill mod or not won't affect this particular issue.

Pete at Tex also suggested maybe I have the pressure plate bolts loose or coming loose. I am going to check them.

My present plan of attack is to order a new master cylinder from GM (for 01-02 cars), install it and bleed the system, and check the pressure plate bolts.

 

Here are some emails I exchanged with Tex about my issue. Maybe this will help some other guys out.

Hello Pete,



I spoke to you a few months ago about installing a new Textralia OZ700 clutch (with billet steel flywheel) in my 2000 trans am. You gave me some installation instructions, and I installed the clutch with teh supplied slave cylinder. I am using my stock master cylinder, and I did do the drill mod



After installing the clutch I noticed the clutch engaged with the pedal just barely off the floor. I was told this was normal and it would get better as the clutch broke in. It did get better. I am very please with the performance of the clutch; the drivability and holding power are quite good. I have 2 issues with it currently that I would like to ask you guys about.



1 - in the colder weather we have now the clutch pedal feels very spongy when the car is cold. After the car warms up the clutch pedal returns to a normal stiffness. Do you guys have any suggestions as to what might be causing this?



2 - my transmission shifts are notchy, and I am wondering if maybe the clutch does not disengage completely. I am not sure that is what is going on, maybe my transmission is ready for a rebuild. Any thoughts on this?



Thanks, Pete ----------------------------------------------------------------------
I think you might need to check the system for air.



The easiest way to check this is to push the clutch in on a flat level surface, bring the revs up to 3000+ rpm. If the car creeps forward or moves then the clutch is dragging. That will mean the clutch is not disengaging properly.



If the pedal is soft or spongy, I would look at ensuring there is no air in the system. Many folks bleed a system the wrong way. The best way to bleed air is to have someone help you. One person cracks the bleeder screw open. The other person who is in the car pushes the pedal to the floor and holds it there. The person under the car then closes the bleeder. Repeat this process 3-4 times to ensure all the air is out. The issue we see is that folks pump the pedal, hold it down, and then crack the bleeder. This doesn’t move any fluid, and you can bleed the clutch 1000 times, and not get the air out.




Jarrod Cunningham
Textralia Clutches - A Division of Willock Industries, Inc.
phone: 214-227-6660
email: jarrod@textralia.com.au

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Jarrod, thanks for the input. I did do the 3000 rpm test that you mentioned below, just forgot to say that in my original email. The car did not move forward when I held the rpm at 3500.



I will bleed the system again and see what happens.



On another note, what do you guys think about using an adjustable master cylinder, like a mcleod unit? I have thought about putting one on to change where the clutch engages/disengages.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
We do not recommend a McLeod M/C for use with our unit. It can cause overtravel, and damage to our clutch by overextending the diaphragm spring on the clutch. It can also cause the clutch to “stick” as the spring goes inverted.



I want to check to ensure you used loctite on the pressure plate bolts. We recommend the loctite be placed in the bolt holes, rather than on the bolt itself to ensure it is not wiped off during installation. I’m also concerned that a pressure plate bolt may be loose. You will not be able to verify it is loose by loosening the bolt, and the pressure plate is pushing against the bolt. The best option if possible is to go back and check the bolts by tightening them, and ensuring they still have the installed torque value. If you find any bolts you can tighten, then the bolts are working themselves loose. Is it possible for you to check the pressure plate bolts?


Jarrod Cunningham
Textralia Clutches - A Division of Willock Industries, Inc.
phone: 214-227-6660
email: jarrod@textralia.com.au

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jarrod, I stand corrected about the rev test. I went ahead and tried the rev to 3500 rpm with the clutch depressed and sure enought the car started moving forward. Maybe the first time I tried it the surface was not level enough, but this time the surface was level for sure.



So, it appears for some reason my clutch is not disengaging completely. This might also explain why my trans does not shift as smooth as it used to.



So, I went ahead and bled the system just as you outlined below, did not seem to change anything. The pedal still feels a little spongy to me, and the car will still move a little when I rev it in gear.



I did use red loctite on the pressure plate bolts, but I did not put it in the hole, just on the bolts.



I should tell you my complete clutch setup.


I am using a stock 2000 GM master cylinder, 55k miles on it. I have a stock clutch line with the drill mod done, your slave cylinder that was supplied with the clutch, your clutch, and I also made a braided steel extension for the factory bleeding port. I got tired of the mess it made when bleeding the clutch, so I made this line so the fluid can go into the drain pan when bleeding the clutch.



Any ideas you guys have would be appreciated. Pete
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In my opinion, You either still have air in the system, or more than likely the pressure plate bolts are backing out of the flywheels. Often what happens is the loctite gets wiped off when threading the bolt into the hole. If at all possible, I would check the bolts as quickly as possible to ensure permanent damage does not occur if they are indeed loose.





Jarrod Cunningham
Textralia Clutches - A Division of Willock Industries, Inc.
phone: 214-227-6660
email: jarrod@textralia.com.au

 

Well, did you ever check those pressure plate bolts? Why is only TEX having this issue with pp bolts backing out?? I never hear of any other clutches having this problem. Is it the ARP bolts them selves or is it better to use a set of new stock bolts? Thanks for posting your back and forth conversations I believe it will help alot of folks out.

 

Have not checked the pressure plate bolts. I will post up if that is indeed my problem.

I used a set of stock bolts, I did not know that ARP made pressure plate bolts.

 

No, I was told that my clutch will becoming with ARP bolts included in the price of my clutch. I just assumed everyone got ARP bolts??? Maybe the problem lies in the stock bolts and that is why Tex is now shipping with the ARP's. I would def check into that being an issue. Please keep me in the loop, so that when I get mine installed I know what the tried and true procedure is so that I do not need to go thru these issues and I will post any and all info I come across on this issue. For the price of this setup that clutch should release itself imo.

 

I have had no problems with my OZ700 for the 13-15k I have had it. It's been to the track NUMEROUS times, and I'm not stock as far as hp goes. The engagement point is close to what the stock LS6 clutch was.

 

OK...so I talked to Young today. That is one great guy there....best cutomter service ever. I let him know what it's doing and he pretty much told me to beat on it a little. I have really been babying it for 450 miles so tonight I uesed my line lock three times, lol. And romped on it harder then I have in awhile. I'm also breaking in a new H/C set up so that and not knowing my pionion angle have been making me drive it pretty decent too. Anyway, I got on it for a good 1/2 hour and the clutch actually does feels beeter. Its still engaging low but not as low as it was. It still will pull fwd a little on level surface if I put it first and rev to 3500 while I have the clutch to the floor so that has me a little concerned. He said to call him after a 100 miles so well see. Between young (byunspeed) and the folks at Textrilla you can't have a better combo for great customer service where they will actuall take care of you.

I'll keep everyone updated how if it starts to inprove and I'd like others to do the same.