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rps clutch problem

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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 06:18 PM
  #1  
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Default rps clutch problem

should i have to shim a rps clutch on a ls1 it is really hard to put in gear at high rpms it feels like it doesnt fully disengage.
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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 08:55 PM
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Oh this is good to see (not really) but I am having the same problem with my RPS Stage 3+ clutch with 2900lb pressure plate. I am currently working with Tom at Carolina Clutch to get this resolved. The hydraulic system on my car has been vacuum bled twice and that didn't fix it. One my car, I have to hammer the clutch pedal to the floor pan to get it in gear when the car is cold. When it is hot, forget getting it in gear whether the car is rolling or stopped.

The clutch engage/disengage point has always been between 1" to 2" from the floor on this car since the clutch was new. I am not sure where you bought yours but you may want to get in touch with Tom at Carolina Clutch and let him know you are having the same issue as Bill Libert and his friend Mike.

You can see pictures of my clutch below:









The car is an '05 GTO with 505hp/480tq at the wheels.

Last edited by Owe5Goat; Jan 9, 2007 at 07:59 PM.
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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 09:10 PM
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Hmmmmmmmm...that's shitty. I haven't had a single problem with mine (Stage III with the 2500 lb pressure plate). Cold shifting, warm shifting, you name it. I've only shifted my car up to 6300 RPMs (still on the stock valve springs, stock cam), so I don't know how it does over that. I've powershifted the 1-2 shift twice, both were no problem. My engagement is about half of the way up the clutch pedal travel.

I do use a Motive power bleeder and I have a slave bleeder extension to make bleeding a breeze, but I don't think that's the difference here.
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 12:50 AM
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Mines being installed along with a forged short and sngle trbo
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 01:43 AM
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Damn, hot spots like its not tomarrow.
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 03:58 PM
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And the flywheel is toast!! I think it is the pressure plate being used as my rps clutch litterally ripped the material off the clutch plate. For the cost go with the mcleod twin disk and be done.
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Old Apr 19, 2008 | 11:25 AM
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I blew out my 2500 lb RPS clutch and it was still under warranty so they gave me the upgraded PP which is the 2900 lb pressure plate and the factory hydrolics do not work with their 2900 lb pressure plate. My clutch also would never fully disengage whether cold or hot so we had to go with their twin disk carbon carbon clutch and it works great with the factory hydrolics and hold 1000 rwhp. Clutch pedal feel is slightly heavier than stock with very smooth engagement. Looks like their 2900 lb pressure plate clutch is too much for the factory hydrolics.
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