Joey7489

iTrader: (21)

Car is running.

However, the shifts are a bit klunky. I dunno what it is. The master cylinder is adjusted properly. Could it be transmission? Needs to be bled more? (I dont think so the fluid was coming out of the bleeder hole pretty good)

03 BUSA

iTrader: (25)

Air is still in the system. That is all that is too it. These slaves are a pain to bleed. Try getting everything hot and then try to bleed. Heat usually will put the air at the top.

Joey7489

iTrader: (21)

You sure? Because there was fluid coming out all over the place.

Whats the most efficient way to bleed? Just have someone pump clutch, then hold it in, then loosen bleeder screw and tighten, then repeat?

1998z28ss

Most efficient way is hook your mityvac up to your resevoir and open your door and run it up over the door and into the car. Pump the clutch and watch the bubbles in your mityvac then release pressure when you're done.

N3V3RL8T

iTrader: (2)

where is your ingagment point? a few inches off the floor? right off the floor?

if this is the first time you have used the pro 5.0 vs the stocker, I'd say the clunkynes is just the nature of the beast. your new shifter gives precise and firm feeling shifts as compared to the slopy OEM shifter.

Bryan @ Speed Inc.

iTrader: (19)

+1 on the shifter

Joey7489

iTrader: (21)

nope, ive used the shifter for 1500 m iles. its not the shifter. the clutch is right off the floor, but thats how it was before as well. its a textralia.

J-Rod

The method you described that you used for bleeding is not the way to bleed the system. Many folks bleed a system the wrong way, a clutch is not a set of brakes, so the pump hold bleed method does not work.

The best way to bleed air via the pedal is to have someone help you. One person cracks the bleeder screw open. The other person who is in the car pushes the pedal to the floor and holds it there. The person under the car then closes the bleeder. Repeat this process 3-4 times, or until the pedal is firm to ensure all the air is out. Each pump of the pedal will move about 10ml of fluid.

The issue I see is that folks pump the pedal, hold it down, and then crack the bleeder. This only moves a small volume of fluid, or it doesn’t move any fluid at all, and you can bleed the clutch 1000 times, and not get the air out. You can presusre bleed if you want, but pressure bleeding can cause issues with the seals in the MC.

04GIBBS

iTrader: (11)

JROD outstanding, simply outstanding information.

Joey7489

iTrader: (21)

Yes, but when you tighten the bleeder bolt back up after holding the clutch in, the clutch has no pressure. IF you pump it, it starts to regain pressure. Are you not supposed to pump it at all? Just push the clutch in manually by hand? Because it sticks.

gun5l1ng3r

Double Post

gun5l1ng3r

Hey JRod...

I don't want to sound like an ***, but how have you confirmed the pressure bleeding ruins the seals in the master cylinder?

I have been having problems with notchy shifting, even after replacing the whole clutch assembly including the slave(also my PP bolts were loose!!!!The shop that did the last clutch screwed up).

My only constant in all the problems has been a master cylinder that has been brought up to almost 22PSI with a mityvac.

I think my last step in trying to solve my notchiness before rebuilding the trans is to replace my master cylinder with a genuine GM unit.

Also the GM masters come pre-bled(so I heard). How does that work?
Do I just plug it into the slave and attach the upper resevoir somehow?

1INSANEGTO

iTrader: (13)

Hey since where on this I lost that damn clip that goes on the line. like a horse shoe clamp. does the dear sell those?

gun5l1ng3r

To The Top^

gun5l1ng3r

Up to the top one more time

working4toys

iTrader: (4)

bleeding clutches always sucks. Sometimes i use the reverse bleeding tool that sends fluid through the bleeder to the reservoir.

NBM99SS

iTrader: (33)

I went over and messed with his clutch. I had it all bled and was ok then it acted up again. Im pretty sure his slave is blown out. Also he has his master set so that there is no pedal free play at all. I dont run this clutch but is this right for that clutch? Im pretty sure its going to burn his disc up

Joey7489

iTrader: (21)

Theres a little bit of freeplay. The clutch pedal is about 1/2 inch above where the brake pedal is.

The adjustable part looks like this (clutch pedal)-------------(x)----------(firewall)pretend thats the threading

the X is where its set at.
About in the middle, maybe a bit lower... So if you were looking at it, it has about this much thread left on the master.
(clutch pedal)(x)---------(firewall)

JLSain

iTrader: (3)

Not to highjack but where in k-town do you live? I live in Enochville. I drive an 02 Silver SS.

For the thread, I'm about to bleed my system and I was taught to:

1. Crack The Bleeder
2. Push Clutch Pedal to the Floor
3. Tighten Bleeder
4. Pull pedal back up to the top.
5. REPEAT until there is no more freeplay in the clutch pedal