please help....clutch/slave problem
please help....clutch/slave problem I just bought a 98 TA. it is suppose to have a fairly new centerforce dual friction clutch, a pro 5.0 shifter, and a 6 speed tranny out of an 02 with about 25000 miles on it. my clutch pedal has no resistance tell about half way down. the problem is, sometimes its fine, but sometimes, it wont go into gear. you can push in on the clutch, but the stick just wont go in gear, any gear including reverse. you can shut the car off, slides into gear real easy, then start it, and the car will kinda try and move, as if the clutch isnt engaged. i heard it may be my slave cylinder so i tried bleeding that. the problem didnt get better. the bleeder i used was the one about 2 inches above where the steel braided line attaches to the tranny. is there another bleeder for the clutch itself? maybe ontop of the tranny, or did i read that wrong ealier? please help with what i should do, if its my slave, what one should i go with? just a gm replacement or what?? thanks for any input!
Bleeding that thing is a real SOB. I know I've been through it when mine grendaded in my clutch 
Anyhow I would replace any parts with either AC Delco or GM parts. When I replaced my Centerforce DFX with the AC Delco it was much larger and engaged much more smoothly. I have learned by many mistakes that the "other" manufacturers sometimes don't make things quite right. There is a post where someone actually sells a 2 foot braided hose type bleeder crack valve that connects up near the master cylinder. It's about $100 if I believe but well worth it for any future problems you may have with having to crack the bleeder valve over and over and over. Also, read up on exactly "how" to bleed the hydraulic clutch pressure. If you're just cracking the valve and closing it you won't build any pressure and air will just keep getting back into the line. You've got to get about 2 buddies to help you. One under the car cracking the valve while one is pumping the clutch and closing and the third person keeps the master cylinder reservoir topped off. If you get ANY air in the line you might as well just find a mechanic with a mity-vac it works like a charm and in about 40 seconds you're done. VERY EFFICIENT 
Anyhow I would replace any parts with either AC Delco or GM parts. When I replaced my Centerforce DFX with the AC Delco it was much larger and engaged much more smoothly. I have learned by many mistakes that the "other" manufacturers sometimes don't make things quite right. There is a post where someone actually sells a 2 foot braided hose type bleeder crack valve that connects up near the master cylinder. It's about $100 if I believe but well worth it for any future problems you may have with having to crack the bleeder valve over and over and over. Also, read up on exactly "how" to bleed the hydraulic clutch pressure. If you're just cracking the valve and closing it you won't build any pressure and air will just keep getting back into the line. You've got to get about 2 buddies to help you. One under the car cracking the valve while one is pumping the clutch and closing and the third person keeps the master cylinder reservoir topped off. If you get ANY air in the line you might as well just find a mechanic with a mity-vac it works like a charm and in about 40 seconds you're done. VERY EFFICIENT Trending Topics
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Well if the car has all stock components in it, I suppose it wouldn't hurt to replace the master too. However as the old adage goes, if it ain't broke don't fix it lol. I seriously doubt the master has to be replaced because it really isn't a wear and tear type part. Compared to the slave cylinder which is constantly put under hydraulic pressure etc. Just try to keep GM or AC Delco parts in it. I'm a big skeptic on the McLeod although I've heard rave reviews about them. Just a personal opinion. Good luck! My 6 speed story ended up costing me a tranny rebuild, a shipment to Texas, 2 clutches, a resurfaced then a new flywheel, a new slave cylinder(then it grendaded) then ANOTHER slave cylinder (hence the new flywheel and clutch) 2 trips to Reno, NV, a wrong clutch alignment tool, a new pressure plate, a claim reimbursement with CSK Auto (Kragen Auto), 10 weeks of downtime without my car, and a whole bunch of screaming and cursing. Hopefully your story goes better.
Total bill: $2,784.88
(gas mileage not included)
Total bill: $2,784.88
(gas mileage not included)
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
I am having the same problem
I bought the car with tranny bad so i took apart and tore down to find 3/4 fork broke and the rtime est in perfect condtion. The clutch looked new so i left it and put it back in.
The tranny works great but my clutch was doing same as yours so i pulled it and put a new slave in and that did not help.
I then put in new master and sill not working.
so i talked to everyone and there brother and they said my pressure plate is warped so I now have the tranny out for the third time.
i checked every thing now and found my pressure plate is not flat and my pilot bearing is warn so i will have all the parts in tommorrow and i think it will be fine then.
I bought the car with tranny bad so i took apart and tore down to find 3/4 fork broke and the rtime est in perfect condtion. The clutch looked new so i left it and put it back in.
The tranny works great but my clutch was doing same as yours so i pulled it and put a new slave in and that did not help.
I then put in new master and sill not working.
so i talked to everyone and there brother and they said my pressure plate is warped so I now have the tranny out for the third time.
i checked every thing now and found my pressure plate is not flat and my pilot bearing is warn so i will have all the parts in tommorrow and i think it will be fine then.
before you go and get someone else to look at it, it sounds like you have air in the line. you can bleed the system yourself. all you need is a vacuum pump and some time. you can do it by yourself, i did. but someone else to help you makes it go a lot faster. there is a website that shows you step by step with pics on how to do it. but i forget what it is. all you do is get the vacuum pump and put on the container it comes with(to prevent fluid from entering the pump) and one of the tips that fits into the hole in the bottom of the reservoir. stick it in to the hole in the middle at the bottom of the reservoir and apply 10-12psi, but not any more as this will reverse the gaskets in the master and slave. have someone start pumping the clutch at a slow steady speed, holding it on every 2 strokes with the clutch all the way in. you will start to see air bubbles coming out if there is any air in the lines. after a few minutes. release the pressure off of the pump and pull it out of the reservoir, but be careful not to suck up too much fluid to empty the reservoir. have an open container of fluid ready as you will need to pour some in when you pull out the pump. then pump the clutch a few more times and allow fluid to enter the system. then reapply the pump. do this until all of the air is out of the system and you should start to feel the clutch getting stronger. it took me about 30 minutes by myself to do this including getting set up, doing it, and cleaning up.
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,501
Likes: 7
From: Ft. Irwin, California (But Virginia is home)
Read your post. Sounds like either air OR your pressure plate bolts are backing out. Is the clutch the origonal? If not, I'd lean towards #2.
You can test the Master cylinder easy. Disconnect the QD connecting the master cylinder line to the trans. Try and step on the clutch pedal. Should not be able to depress it. If you can, master cylinder is going bad.
Bleed the entire system. To properly bleed the master cylinder, you will need to pull it out of the car. Can use a MitiVac....but the only way I've ever been able to get ALL the air out is to pull the master, put it in a vice, and then use a MitiVac (or in my case, a pressurized bug sprayer full of brake fluid), to push the air through the cylinder and lines. Problem is...air likes to travel up, so it's hard to get out of the system with the master in the car, as you're trying to force the air DOWN.
If the master is good and bleeding the sysem doesn't fix the problem.....you'd have to pull the trans to change the slave. Same for the pressure plate bolts.
You can test the Master cylinder easy. Disconnect the QD connecting the master cylinder line to the trans. Try and step on the clutch pedal. Should not be able to depress it. If you can, master cylinder is going bad.
Bleed the entire system. To properly bleed the master cylinder, you will need to pull it out of the car. Can use a MitiVac....but the only way I've ever been able to get ALL the air out is to pull the master, put it in a vice, and then use a MitiVac (or in my case, a pressurized bug sprayer full of brake fluid), to push the air through the cylinder and lines. Problem is...air likes to travel up, so it's hard to get out of the system with the master in the car, as you're trying to force the air DOWN.
If the master is good and bleeding the sysem doesn't fix the problem.....you'd have to pull the trans to change the slave. Same for the pressure plate bolts.
