OK, so I have been having a battle with my damn clutch and getting it to bleed and engage properely for weeks now. Anyway, its a new Textrilla oz700, new slave and new throw out bearing, the master was used out of my buddies 02TA. It was working fine when it was in his car so I didnt think anything about it. So I have been learning alot from this experince and first off we did not bleed the master and we also did the drill mod to it so that right there could be a big problem. Second we tried bleeding it for ever with now luck, we used the pump, hold, open bleed port quickly close and then re pump method. Seems some do it this way and others do the crack bleeder, depress pedal and hold down, close bleeder, repeat so I guess we were bleeding it wrong. Anyway I got a mityvac and that did work but only for a few days then the pedal got sloppy again then got to the point where I couldnt even get the car into gear when it was on. That was two weeks ago, from searching around I found that my clutch was not fully disengaging cause I could rev my car to 3500k or so with the clutch pushed in and the car would pull fwd slowly. Now, its real bad. I cant even get the car in gear with it on. So today we tried the mityvac again with isnt really doing much and also bleeding from carking the bleed port but again I guess we were doing it wrong cause I found were most are doing it the way I explained above today. I will try the other way in a few days when I have time to work on the car. But we also took out the master cylinder. WHAT is the propper way to bleed it and HOW do I know if its bad or not. Also HOW do I know if this is a MASTER problem or a SLAVE problem. I pray its a master problem!! I dont want to drop the damn tranny. Thank you for any advice tips or what ever...sorry this got long, im just very frustrated.

 

I would send an e-mail to Pete at Tex so he can give you some of his opinions. Instead of listening to 100 people and alot of different options I would just call the source and that would be Tex.

 

I have already have begun that process today, thanks. Between him and young at byunspeed they have very good customer service.

 

I Am Having The Sameeee Damn Problem!!!!

 

Response I got from Textralia

It sounds like you may have one of two issues. Either you have a leak in the system which is allowing air to get in, or you have bolt which is backing out of the pressure plate. Here are a couple of questions.



Did you install the clutch?

Did you use loctite in the bolt holes as prescribed in the instructions?



As for bleeding. Many folks bleed a system the wrong way. The best way to bleed air is to have someone help you. One person cracks the bleeder screw open. The other person who is in the car pushes the pedal to the floor and holds it there. The person under the car then closes the bleeder. Repeat this process 3-4 times, or until the pedal is firm to ensure all the air is out.



The issue we see is that folks pump the pedal, hold it down, and then crack the bleeder. This doesn’t move any fluid, and you can bleed the clutch 1000 times, and not get the air out. Pressure bleeding can cause issues with the seals in the MC. Also, If the pedal is soft or spongy, I would look at ensuring there is no air in the system.



We don’t recommend aftermarket slaves with our clutches. I don't know whose used slave you used, if it were stock, or some adjustable unit. Our design is intended to have the same height and nearly the same feel as stock with the stock hydraulics. So, when you bring in a modified part no matter whose it is, it simply complicates the matter.



Obviously, you can change out the master cylinder if you detect that it may be the issue. If it has a bad seal, it can leak air into the system.

If it were the slave I suspect you’d have fluid leaking on the ground, but I guess it is in the realm of possibilities to have a nick on the seal letting air in.



After that would be to check the mechanical integrity of the installation. This means going around the perimeter bolts on the pressure plate to ensure they are tight. If they have backed out any, the clutch will not have enough clamp. You may want to cut a small access hole in your bellhousing. This will allow you to check the torque on the pressure plate bolts. This way you don’t have to remove the driveline to check that out.



If a bolt has backed out, it shouldn’t be loose as the pressure plate will be pushing back on it. But, if you check the torque with a torque wrench, obviously you’ll be able to tighten it up. If you find any that are loose, you need to put loctite in the hole, and tighten it to the proper torque value. If you do find one loose, then I would check ever bolt that was installed to ensure no others are backing out.



The only other issue I can possibly imagine that would causes the clutch to drag is a bent disc. The only time I've seen this is when someone has left the transmission hanging off the clutch while installing, and physically bent the disc. Its pretty hard to do that, but its also something to look at.



That is where I would start. Let me know if there is anything else we can do to help you out.

 

yup, I got thtat emails too. Guess Im fist check on the bleeding to make sure we did tha right. My slave was brand new freom young at byunspedd. New throug out bearing and updater 02-04 master that we did the drill mod too and Im dont belive we benchbled it, CAN some SHOW ME the popper way to that. I have my mater out and cant seem to find any problemns with it....Im so damn confuesed with this bithc.

 

I changed my master too. My slave is new from byunspeed as well. Same problem before and after installing master cyl.

 

Benchbleeding= Have someone push in the long *** metal rod and hold it. Then pour fluid into the hole where the steel braided line attaches to the master cyl. Slowly let the rod out, youll hear it sucking the fluid in. Once it starts to overflow which should only be about 5 times your ready to put it in the car.