LS7 clutch install ?
02-12-2007, 07:00 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by SnakeStomper
I'm upgrading my clutch on my '02 SS with the LS7 clutch and LS2 flywheel ... I have almost 30K on my car, should I swap out the master/slave cylinders??
02-12-2007, 07:01 PM
#22
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You can buy it from Fred Beans GM dealer in pennsylvania for 398.05 plus shipping, thats what i did, really great guys there, very knowledgeable, answer any and all questions
02-12-2007, 08:16 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by Nine Ball
Please quit posting about non-sponsors here or we will have to start locking accounts. Seems like every time the LS7 clutch is mentioned, the same people are quick to pimp non-sponsoring vendors and their prices here.
02-15-2007, 07:28 PM
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Is nobody buying LS6 clutches anymore? My factory clutch just went out this week and I'm looking to order a replacement. Haven't been on this forum for a while, last I knew everyone was upgrading to the LS6 or aftermarket. I'm only putting 350 to the wheels right now, so the LS7 sounds like it might be overkill.
Thanks for the info.
Thanks for the info.
02-18-2007, 12:29 PM
#29
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I installed a LS7 setup in my Vette last week. I also wondered about the pre-adjustment. I called LUK, the mfg of this clutch, and talked to one of there reps about pre-adjustment.
LUK's rep said he would not do the pre-adjustment. He says the clutch comes from them with the pre-adjustment set at the best position for best clutch release points for the majority of applications.
Here are my observations concerning the pre-adjustments springs. When i took out my old original clutch which was also a LUK with the pre-adjustment springs, the clutch engaged all the way at the top of the pedal travel. The pre-adjustment springs were also expanded out all the way. These clutches are self adjusting and these springs are what do the adjusting. As the clutch wears, the clutch self adjusts to keep pedal feel as close to normal that it can.
My new LS7 clutch came with the pre-adjustment springs set pretty close to the middle of its available travel. My clutch after installation, engaged pretty close to the floor and after about 150 miles it is starting to move up just a little. I like it engaging lower a whole lot better that all the way at the top of the pedal travel.
With the wore out clutch engaging at the top and the pre-adjustment spring expanded out all the way, the new clutch engaging closer to the floor and the pre-adjustment spring in the middle of there travel, I think that if you compressed the pre-adjustment springs all the way as the pre-adjustment procedure says, that the clutch won't release correctly as the release point would be at the floor or under the floor it you see what I am trying to say.
I do not claim to be a clutch expert and am just wanting to pass along my observations.
I do think though that it is absolutely mandatory that the drill mod be done. This mod allows faster fluid movement which releases and engages the clutch faster which keeps down heat which is the clutches worst enemy.
LUK's rep said he would not do the pre-adjustment. He says the clutch comes from them with the pre-adjustment set at the best position for best clutch release points for the majority of applications.
Here are my observations concerning the pre-adjustments springs. When i took out my old original clutch which was also a LUK with the pre-adjustment springs, the clutch engaged all the way at the top of the pedal travel. The pre-adjustment springs were also expanded out all the way. These clutches are self adjusting and these springs are what do the adjusting. As the clutch wears, the clutch self adjusts to keep pedal feel as close to normal that it can.
My new LS7 clutch came with the pre-adjustment springs set pretty close to the middle of its available travel. My clutch after installation, engaged pretty close to the floor and after about 150 miles it is starting to move up just a little. I like it engaging lower a whole lot better that all the way at the top of the pedal travel.
With the wore out clutch engaging at the top and the pre-adjustment spring expanded out all the way, the new clutch engaging closer to the floor and the pre-adjustment spring in the middle of there travel, I think that if you compressed the pre-adjustment springs all the way as the pre-adjustment procedure says, that the clutch won't release correctly as the release point would be at the floor or under the floor it you see what I am trying to say.
I do not claim to be a clutch expert and am just wanting to pass along my observations.
I do think though that it is absolutely mandatory that the drill mod be done. This mod allows faster fluid movement which releases and engages the clutch faster which keeps down heat which is the clutches worst enemy.
02-19-2007, 06:16 PM
#30
Originally Posted by bfhawki
I do think though that it is absolutely mandatory that the drill mod be done. This mod allows faster fluid movement which releases and engages the clutch faster which keeps down heat which is the clutches worst enemy.
02-19-2007, 10:03 PM
#32
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FbodyAttraction..... When I did my LS7 clutch install, I changed out all of the hydraulics in my 01 Vette to hydraulics from a 04 Z06. I still did the drill mod. The restriction in the Vette hydraulics is in the fitting that goes into the slave cylinder. The opening was only about 1/16" and I opened it up to 1/8".
I think the restriction in the fbody is in the m/c line and I would still do it if I were you. You need to move as much fluid as quickly as you can to get the clutch to release and engage as fast as it can. The restriction slows down fluid travel which causes slower pressure plate action at high rpm. This slower action causes the clutch to slip which generates heat. The heat can burn or boil the hydraulic fluid, not to mention the burn marks on the flywheel and pressure plate and additional premature clutch wear.
Mr_President.... Did you changed out all of the hydraulics when you did your clutch swap? It sounds to me like you have a hydraulic problem some where. I bought a remote bleeder line from steve d off of this forum. It makes bleeding the system so much easier. It only took about 5 minutes to bleed my system with the remote bleeder and I did it standing up with the remote bleeder under the hood. Alot of people use the mighty vac method to bleed with good luck. Some people say that it was the only way that they got all of the air out of their system.
I did not use any shims when I did my swap and pm'd several different people that went with the LS7 setup in their cars. Only one of them said that they used a shim.
There are several people on this forum that say they can't get their new LS7 clutch to release. They report bleeding the system until the cows come home with no luck and swear they have gotten a bad pressure plate and maybe they have. I was fortunate enough to have my clutch work like it is suppose to. The vast majority of people that install the LS7 setup say that the clutch at first releases towards the floor and after a couple of hundred miles moves up more towards the middle of pedal travel.
I think the restriction in the fbody is in the m/c line and I would still do it if I were you. You need to move as much fluid as quickly as you can to get the clutch to release and engage as fast as it can. The restriction slows down fluid travel which causes slower pressure plate action at high rpm. This slower action causes the clutch to slip which generates heat. The heat can burn or boil the hydraulic fluid, not to mention the burn marks on the flywheel and pressure plate and additional premature clutch wear.
Mr_President.... Did you changed out all of the hydraulics when you did your clutch swap? It sounds to me like you have a hydraulic problem some where. I bought a remote bleeder line from steve d off of this forum. It makes bleeding the system so much easier. It only took about 5 minutes to bleed my system with the remote bleeder and I did it standing up with the remote bleeder under the hood. Alot of people use the mighty vac method to bleed with good luck. Some people say that it was the only way that they got all of the air out of their system.
I did not use any shims when I did my swap and pm'd several different people that went with the LS7 setup in their cars. Only one of them said that they used a shim.
There are several people on this forum that say they can't get their new LS7 clutch to release. They report bleeding the system until the cows come home with no luck and swear they have gotten a bad pressure plate and maybe they have. I was fortunate enough to have my clutch work like it is suppose to. The vast majority of people that install the LS7 setup say that the clutch at first releases towards the floor and after a couple of hundred miles moves up more towards the middle of pedal travel.
02-21-2007, 01:59 PM
#33
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Originally Posted by Blk97WS6
We need to find a "test subject" to try the pre-adjustment and see if it works.
i need to replace the blown spec3 that's in the car i'm buying.
03-03-2007, 09:17 AM
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I am installing an LS7 clutch/pressure plate in my '99 Trans Am. I tried to do the pressure plate adjustment on a press just like the procedure in my factory repair manual, which is the same as the procedure posted on the GTO forum. After pressing the crap out of the fingers, I could not ever get the adjustment ring to release so it could be adjusted. I hope I didn't damage the pressure plate. I guess I will have to live with the normal new LS7 clutch "near the floor" engagement and breaking-in procedure. If I could have adjusted it, it would have been better I think and would have had a higher engagement point when new, and would have self-adjusted to the best position. That seems to be the way it is designed with the adjuster ring ramps and springs.
If anyone else has been successful with the adjustment, please speak up.
If anyone else has been successful with the adjustment, please speak up.
