Clarification on disc specifications:
Stage 1 uses an Organic disc
Stage 2 uses a Kevlar disc
Stage 2 is a Hybrid unit (Kevlar and six-puck CSM)
Stage 3 uses a sprung Carbon-Semi-Metallic (CSM) six-puck disc
Stage 3+ uses a full-faced CSM disc
Stage 4 uses a rigid CSM six-puck disc
Stage 5 uses a rigid sintered iron disc

Now that all the facts about the stages are down I wanted to provide a bit of info about the importance of break-in, the effects of miss-surfaced or un-surfaced flywheels, and the significance of proper installation on the life of a clutch.

Break-in is perhaps the most over-looked and underrated part of getting the most out of your clutch. Every SPEC clutch comes with a break-in sheet that provides specifics information regarding the appropriate break-in procedure and in most instances we suggest 500 miles of city driving. This does not mean that you should take the car immediately to the track after install nor does it mean that driving from Miami to New York will provide an appropriate break-in (lol you would be surprised how many folks neglect to read the info sheets). At any rate, break-in is meant to both heat-in and bed-in the clutch (similar in practice to bedding-in brake pads). Without this vital step clutch life and wear characteristics won't be ideal.

Another often forgotten aspect of getting the best clutch life possible is use of a flat flywheel. According to most Manufacture's installation manuals a new flywheel should be used every time a new clutch is installed. However, on most single-mass units resurfacing is pretty normal. Whether you choose to go with a new flywheel or a resurfaced one it must be flat...here's why: when a flywheel is used the disc removes material from its friction surface and over-time leads to a surface that is dished. If you install a new disc on a used flywheel (even if it looks good and flat) you will not get the full life or the total quoted torque capacity out of the unit. We suggest the use of a grinder for resurfacing (some folks will tell you a lathe is just as effective but even the best lathe can suffer from flex as it moves away from the centerline. This causes the flywheel to have a high outer edge--i.e. no flatter then it was to begin with).

Finally, installation can have a dramatic effect no matter how exact you are with break-in or how flat your flywheel is. These are the most commonly seen issues:

-Improperly torqued bolts (pressure-plate to flywheel)- The plate will not pull down evenly and thus will not provide consistent pressure, evidenced by slippage and heat marks on part of the plate only. (This can also be caused buy an un-surfaced/miss-surfaced flywheel).

-Disc Contamination- can be attributed to a leaky rear main seal, a bad slave cylinder, or an over greased input shaft. Any of these can wreak havoc on an otherwise perfect assembly and lead to slippage subsequently high heat.

-Incorrect disc orientation- As unreal as this may sound, discs are occasionally installed backwards. If this happens the clutch will not release or engage properly. To limit the chance of this we apply a sticker on the flywheel side of the disc that reads "FW Side."

-Use of old Hydraulic components- Most of you have likely upgraded to the newer GM Slave cylinder but even these upgraded units can fail. Such a failure will most certainly contaminate a disc (see above).

-Bent disc- most commonly caused by hanging the transmission off the input-shaft. This can tweak the disc leading to inconsistent contact and thus slippage.

Above all else, make sure you are comfortable with the shop that is handling your installation. Be sure to ask about their experience and their knowledge of the car in questions. If you are not comfortable with their abilities then find someone else to assist you.

Though this information does not cover every possible issue it is meant to be a synopsis of ways that you can avoid issues and get the most out of your clutch. By following these very simple guidelines you can avoid a number of issues that are regularly mentioned on this forum. Let me know if you have any further questions.
Thanks,

 

Can you email me the your installation directions fot the stage 3+ setup with billet steel flywheel? brado8266@yahoo.com

 

503rwhp about 1500miles feels perfect and holds great at the track. gonna spray a big 350 shot and full slicks i'll see how good it is!

 

Brad, I beleive that you are looking for torque specs for the plate to flywheel bolts. We recommend the stock torque specs and though it has been a while since I have personally installed a kit on a Camaro I beleive the appropriate numbers are 40-42ft-lbs. with red Loktite. Let me know if you need anything else. Thanks,

 

were did u buy the 3+ for $400

 

I didnt get it at a vendor.

 

could u pm the info to me. i desperatly need a new clutch and dont have much money so that price world deffintly make my day.

 

I got it from someone that didnt need it anymore becasue hes switching to a A4 instead.

 

dam well anyone know were i can get it the cheapest?

 

It's a grea budget clutch. I've had mine now for about 11k miles and its fine. It shudders pretty bad when you first put it in, over time/miles ... the shuddering gets better. It doesn't completely go away though. If I have *** it when I'm leaving a stop light or in traffic and don't give it enough gas, the car will shudder a tad. But I'd say about 95% of the time, it doesn't shudder for me anymore. I'm pretty happy with it from a DD perspective, haven't had it at the track or done any dumps on it. But I'm sure it'd hold like a ****.

 

I have had a Spec 5 for over a year and a half. It just went out about a month ago. It lasted 12,000 miles and about 10 passes at the track and about 100 races on the street. I was satisfied with the clutch. I just recieved my new Spec 5 from WSStore.Com on Monday. Have to pull the old one out and balance the clutch with the flywheel.

 

flywheel to crank - progressive torquing of 3 passes in a star pattern.

15ftlbs

37ftlbs

72-74ftlbs

clutch disk and pressure plate to flywheel - progressive torquing of 3 passes in a star pattern.

20ftlbs

40ftlbs

52ftlbs

i can definately see people accidentally putting in the clutch disk backwards.
it's pretty easy to do without the sticker....

i dont ever remember having a sticker on my spec3's.

 

install universtiy says 72 flywheel to crank, 52 pp to flywheel

 

okay i just googled these specs. one source (from z06vette.com) says the clutch/pres plate to flywheel should be done over 3 passes in sequence 20/40/52

and flywheel bolts should be torqued in sequence 15/37/74

so my specs that i listed above WERE in fact for the flywheel NOT the clutch/pres plate.

--editted my above post to read correct torque specs--

 

Thanks for the clarification, I was covered up yesterday and didn't have time to look for the specs. Great job!

 

i try haha

 

little over 30k on my stg 3 "x" and 100+ passes still drives like day one. didnt even slip with the full slicks . but i dont slip it much at all on the street either. any race clutch will not like being slipped and wear ALOT faster if slipped.

on a side note i have a stg5 waiting to go in for this season

 

I've had my Stage 3 for 4 years now. No problems and still going strong.

 

500hp, 3+ works for me, no chatter, 50+ passes, clean engagement on the street.