SSwanner

iTrader: (128)

i've finally got my motor back last night and got most of it together today. down to the dirty part

i have the part # 8710-00.

it came with 0 instructions for install on ls1/t56 combo's.

i bought (16) 10mm x 45mm (don't hold me to it, like 4-5mm shorter then stock) allen head cap screws for the bellhousing-motor & trans-bellhousing. trust me you need them! clearance is pretty tight & the bellhousing has slight bevelling (sp?) for a small headed bolt. the only ones that were a pain was the usuall driverside above the dowell pin & the very top one (i left that one out)

***i did this with the drivers side header loose & no exhaust on***

the passangers side header cleared with no problem. (i have hooker SC long tubes) i had to grind about 1/4" off the drivers side of the motor plate/bellhousing for header clearance. this was where the starter provision is on the drivers side on the bottom portion, between the 2 small bolt holes. i used a die grinder with a carbide bit for steel, took about 10 min.
if you don't want to do this you could probably "clearance" the header tube instead. other headers may be slightly different.

the motor plate requires grinding of the oil pan between the bottom & gasket. you can see where its machined down to accept the stock bellhousing & rises up a little. it all needs to be the same surface depth. i used a 4" disc grinder for this and it took about 15-20 min. its pretty straight forward but a PITA.

after the motor plate is on bolt the flywheel & clutch assembly on. then bolt the bellhousing on as before. its pretty damn heavy so be careful.

*** i got a bleeder extension to make life a lot easier*** i forgot the guys name but do a search and he is on here. i think it was about $90 & worth its weight in gold. it looks like you would be able to run the stock bleeder if you cant swing the extended piece.

the only other thing that had to be modified was the starter housing where the "head" goes into the bellhousing. i had to grind some of the aluminum off the bottom side. probably a 1/4" that goes into the BH.

i hope this helps someone

badpewter-z

iTrader: (4)

all this and no pics!!

decent right up though

SScam68

iTrader: (20)

****, I just got mine yesterday. Sucks I'm going to have to cut it up.

SSwanner

iTrader: (128)

sorry i didn't take any pics. i was working on it off & on and didn't think about it.


in all i trimmed about 1/4" x 1" off the corner of the bellhousing. that was just because i didn't wanna heat the header up and bend it.

02NBMWS6

iTrader: (22)

so with the remote bleeder, where does the the bleeder line run? out of the hole for the clutch fork?

and without a remote bleeder, how would you be able to get to the bleeder valve? or could you?

CheeseNR7

iTrader: (1)

http://www.thelapd.com/Merchant2/mer...e_Code=thelapd

that is the remote bleeder

1QWIKBIRD

iTrader: (25)

These are some pics of my install.......should be similar. I do remember having to grind the nose of the starter, but did not take any pics. I also remember using longer than standard dowel pins in the block because the stock ones weren't long enough with the block plate and as a result of the longer dowel pins I had too cut the bracket (assuming for some mechanical style clutch app) on the driver side of the bell. No bid deal though.

Highly recommend a remote bleeder while you are in there....

Chris

bigdsz

iTrader: (1)

I had a piece of 1/4" stainless plate welded to cover most of the big fork hole. Also when using the allen cap screws be careful not to bottom them out. The block could be cracked.

SSwanner

iTrader: (128)

well i found something pretty interesting today. since i've had the car back together i have not been able to power shift it & the clutch has been "catching" about 3" off the floor.

today i got it on the lift and checked the distance/clearance between the TO bearing & pressure plate. amber told me it should be around .050" well mine is a LOT more then that! by like a 1/4". i know of one other guy with the same problem.

i'm gonna get a custom spacer made like the SPEC one and that should fix my problem.

SScam68

iTrader: (20)

phew, got a little freaked about your post

My spec has a spacer.

The bellhousing was an absolute bitch to install.

I power shifted once but didn't have any problems. The car is running like it did before, pedal pressure feels the same as well.

I'll ring her out tommorow a little more, see if I notice any issues.

I didn't have to grind the starter and I was able to get all the SHC on, but had to buy shorter ones completely threaded AND had to cut the socket to squeeze it by the firewall with a U-joint, believe me it took A LOT of patience.

I put a jack on the front of the engine and tilted it towards the back for more clearance. It would have been A LOT easier with the engine out of the car.

02NBMWS6

iTrader: (22)

man, me and my buddy just went through the same deal with our textralias. youre not the only one. my buddy bought a shim from spec too, he ended up using a mcleod adjustable mc though and that cured his problem

SSwanner

iTrader: (128)

hmm, thanks man! i put 3...... YES 3 spec shimms behind the slave cylinder to have the proper TO bearing/PP clearance with the slave bottomed out. it feels a little better but its not like it used to be. i still cant get it into gear without lifting the right foot all the PP bolts were good and tight and everything looked good.

i'm wandering if the "drill mod" will help this? i didn't do it cause pete @ tex. told me not to but i don't think it will hurt anything at this point

02NBMWS6 shoot me a PM to further discuss this

n2ojunkie

I know old but I am doing mine now. SSwanner, why did you buy the bolts? mine came with some? just wondering. I too had to grind the drivers side starter houseing to fit.

Also please tell me if I am doing this right, I've done clutch swaps myself in a couple of hours but this is the first mcleod I've installed. The instructions suck.

1st. put the motor plate on.
2nd bolt the flywheel and clutch on.
3rd. put the bellhouseing on and only put them together with the bolts that hold both to the block right? what about all of the other bolts and holes, should I put some of those in also?
4th put the trans in and powershift the hell out of it

Oh one more where can I get longer dowel pins? and what size do I need? thanks.

guess I am done for the night have to finish later.

bigdsz

iTrader: (1)

Remember the oil pan has to be ground down, so the plate will fit flush up against the block.

n2ojunkie

Thanks, I did that already, just want to know if thats all that holds it all together.

02NBMWS6

iTrader: (22)

fwiw, my stock dowel pins seemed to be long enough, and i havent had any problems with it

badpewter-z

iTrader: (4)

TEST FIT EVERYTHING first and see where you have to grind. line up housing and motor plate, mark which holes will be used to bolt to motor. enlagre them to clear the bolts eaiser. you will need some allen head bolts to have them fit in a few spots. grid for the starter to fit, shorten the slave bleeder , put bolts on the holes you can acces easily enough as they will help hold it together . and make sure you have some beer too

n2ojunkie

I've been fitting it in place, Ive ground on it where its needed, I dont see where the starter hits?

I asked about the pins because it doesnt want to stay inplace test fitting it.

As far as teh bleeder goes I made my own remote bleeder with some 4an nitrous hose and a couple of fittings. Not sure if it will work or not but it cost me $10 so I'll try it.

02NBMWS6

iTrader: (22)

i didnt have to enlarge any holes, get any bolts or any new dowels with the McLeod i received about 2 months ago

1BDHWK

iTrader: (18)

I had to keep grinding little by little to get the motor plate to sit up there. Everytime I thought I had ground enough off, I would put the plate up there, and noticed I needed to grind more. When I got the plate up there, if I bumped it at all, it would fall. I had to grind for the starter too.

Mine did not come with bolts, but I also got it for free.