Textralia Clutch Problem
Originally Posted by 04GIBBS
When speaking with Jarrad about this from Textrilla he says that the number one issue is the way people are bleeding the system. I had the same issue and rebleed the system and put a new master cylinder in and the problem was resolved. When bleeding you need 2 people. One persone to crack the bleeder the next to push the clutch pedal to the floor the close bleeder and repeat this setp until pedal is hard also make sure you have enough fluid when doing so. If you buy a new master cylinder from the dealer it is already prebleed.
Originally Posted by TurboDan
I'm having a similar problem with my Textralia OZ700. The difference is mine seems to be more difficult when cold. Does your car want to start rolling with the clutch pedal just off of the floor? Mine does. I'm thinking the clutch is dragging.
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 36
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From: New Bern, NC.
Originally Posted by greatwhitess
I had one do that. The clutch wasn't disengaging all the wat. Car had brand new hydraulics and were bled properly with 2 people. We took the clutch out and measured From the mounting face of the flywheel to the top of the pressure plate fingers on the Tex and on a Spec 3. Teh Tex was 1/4" of an inch shorter. It was sitting farther away from the slave than the Spec was and it was causing it to not disengage. If you spun the car to 5k or more with the clutch in it would start to roll.
These Textralia clutches are starting to show signs of problems. People were swearing by them in the beginning. Some still are! I'm having some of the same problems. Jared said it was because of the m/c, and is sending me a new clutch. One thing I can say w/ certainty is they have excellent customer service. Not so sure about the product yet. Some of the local guys here have also had problems.
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Joined: Jan 2004
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I've got only good things to say about their service as well. They replaced my clutch when their were problems with noise. They are a top notch operation. If only every supplier had this level of dedication to customer support! I picked the Textralia clutch because I didn't mind paying a little more for the best.
Unfortunately I've had nothing but problems from day one. Clutch problems apparently are so hard to diagnose. I've replaced the master cylinder, twice replaced the slave, and now I'm getting ready to pull out the clutch for a final time and replace with an LS7. Pete has been very understanding and has never hesitated to send replacements. The $500 labor to R&R each time is starting to hurt, though. If it comes out again I think I'm going to have to give up on Textralia.
I vacuum bled the clutch again today and I still have start of engagement immediately off the floor. It takes almost the entire pedal travel to full engage. To me it feels like something is not right with the clutch. Next week I will have my mechanic flush and do a standard two-man bleed. That will likely be my last attempt.
Unfortunately I've had nothing but problems from day one. Clutch problems apparently are so hard to diagnose. I've replaced the master cylinder, twice replaced the slave, and now I'm getting ready to pull out the clutch for a final time and replace with an LS7. Pete has been very understanding and has never hesitated to send replacements. The $500 labor to R&R each time is starting to hurt, though. If it comes out again I think I'm going to have to give up on Textralia.
I vacuum bled the clutch again today and I still have start of engagement immediately off the floor. It takes almost the entire pedal travel to full engage. To me it feels like something is not right with the clutch. Next week I will have my mechanic flush and do a standard two-man bleed. That will likely be my last attempt.
It looks like I might have a bad M/C because I've tried bleeding it and I'm still having the same problems with the engagement. Once I replace the M/C I'll make sure to let you guys know what happens.
Thanks for all the help guys
Thanks for all the help guys
Originally Posted by TurboDan
I've got only good things to say about their service as well. They replaced my clutch when their were problems with noise. They are a top notch operation. If only every supplier had this level of dedication to customer support! I picked the Textralia clutch because I didn't mind paying a little more for the best.
Unfortunately I've had nothing but problems from day one. Clutch problems apparently are so hard to diagnose. I've replaced the master cylinder, twice replaced the slave, and now I'm getting ready to pull out the clutch for a final time and replace with an LS7. Pete has been very understanding and has never hesitated to send replacements. The $500 labor to R&R each time is starting to hurt, though. If it comes out again I think I'm going to have to give up on Textralia.
I vacuum bled the clutch again today and I still have start of engagement immediately off the floor. It takes almost the entire pedal travel to full engage. To me it feels like something is not right with the clutch. Next week I will have my mechanic flush and do a standard two-man bleed. That will likely be my last attempt.
Unfortunately I've had nothing but problems from day one. Clutch problems apparently are so hard to diagnose. I've replaced the master cylinder, twice replaced the slave, and now I'm getting ready to pull out the clutch for a final time and replace with an LS7. Pete has been very understanding and has never hesitated to send replacements. The $500 labor to R&R each time is starting to hurt, though. If it comes out again I think I'm going to have to give up on Textralia.
I vacuum bled the clutch again today and I still have start of engagement immediately off the floor. It takes almost the entire pedal travel to full engage. To me it feels like something is not right with the clutch. Next week I will have my mechanic flush and do a standard two-man bleed. That will likely be my last attempt.
Anytime a problem shows up only under hard use, it is a hydraulic heat problem. The clutches and PP's of any company, not just TEX, pretty much do what they do, regardless of heat. Anytime a problem has to do with hard use or heat, look at hydraulics. Most of these problems that I have seen were due to headers running to close to hydraulic lines. A little heat shielding goes long way.
The only problem I have with my Textralia clutch is the annoying metal squeal it does when I take of from first or when I'm in reverse. It really is embarrassing and I don't think it should be doing that for the amount of money I paid for it. Anyone have textralia's number I think I might have to call them.
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 51
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Originally Posted by Tirefire
The only problem I have with my Textralia clutch is the annoying metal squeal it does when I take of from first or when I'm in reverse. It really is embarrassing and I don't think it should be doing that for the amount of money I paid for it. Anyone have textralia's number I think I might have to call them.
I had that with my "Z" grip. After switching to the "X" grip I had no more noise. The "X" grip is more of a street design with less ultimate holding power but still far and away more than I need for 411rwhp. Pete took care of me on that.
I vacuum bled for another 15 minutes on Sunday until no more bubbles. Now the car starts to roll with the pedal 1/2" off the floor. Better, but not what I would call acceptable. Am I wrong? Should the car start moving at such a low pedal height?
Originally Posted by TurboDan
I had that with my "Z" grip. After switching to the "X" grip I had no more noise. The "X" grip is more of a street design with less ultimate holding power but still far and away more than I need for 411rwhp. Pete took care of me on that.
I vacuum bled for another 15 minutes on Sunday until no more bubbles. Now the car starts to roll with the pedal 1/2" off the floor. Better, but not what I would call acceptable. Am I wrong? Should the car start moving at such a low pedal height?
I vacuum bled for another 15 minutes on Sunday until no more bubbles. Now the car starts to roll with the pedal 1/2" off the floor. Better, but not what I would call acceptable. Am I wrong? Should the car start moving at such a low pedal height?
Changed the Master and I'm still having the same problem. When I drive the car hard and take it to a stop it has a hard time going into first and reverse. There has even been a couple occasions to where I'm rolling the car slow and try to put it in 1st and it would grind. Is there a reason these issues only occur after driving the car real hard. So I have a new slave, new master, and the its bleed real good so what could the problem be?
Originally Posted by MeentSS02
How much insulation did you do on the braided line that goes from the master to the slave?
Cooked fluid can definitely cause these types of problems.
Here's what I did (albeit not cheap):
1. Added a bleeder extension line to the slave cylinder so that the bleeder screw is back up by the master cylinder reservoir (steve-d on here makes them).
2. Wrapped BOTH lines in heat wrap on the WHOLE line. I put shrink wrap tubing around that to make sure nothing would move or come unwrapped.
3. Used a good DOT 4 brake fluid for the hydraulics (Ate Super Blue)
4. Bought a pressure bleeder from Motive along with the right adapter for the clutch master reservoir. Pressurize it, open the bleeder screw, and watch the bubbles come out.
I haven't had a bit of trouble since.
Here's what I did (albeit not cheap):
1. Added a bleeder extension line to the slave cylinder so that the bleeder screw is back up by the master cylinder reservoir (steve-d on here makes them).
2. Wrapped BOTH lines in heat wrap on the WHOLE line. I put shrink wrap tubing around that to make sure nothing would move or come unwrapped.
3. Used a good DOT 4 brake fluid for the hydraulics (Ate Super Blue)
4. Bought a pressure bleeder from Motive along with the right adapter for the clutch master reservoir. Pressurize it, open the bleeder screw, and watch the bubbles come out.
I haven't had a bit of trouble since.
Originally Posted by MeentSS02
Cooked fluid can definitely cause these types of problems.
Here's what I did (albeit not cheap):
1. Added a bleeder extension line to the slave cylinder so that the bleeder screw is back up by the master cylinder reservoir (steve-d on here makes them).
2. Wrapped BOTH lines in heat wrap on the WHOLE line. I put shrink wrap tubing around that to make sure nothing would move or come unwrapped.
3. Used a good DOT 4 brake fluid for the hydraulics (Ate Super Blue)
4. Bought a pressure bleeder from Motive along with the right adapter for the clutch master reservoir. Pressurize it, open the bleeder screw, and watch the bubbles come out.
I haven't had a bit of trouble since.
Here's what I did (albeit not cheap):
1. Added a bleeder extension line to the slave cylinder so that the bleeder screw is back up by the master cylinder reservoir (steve-d on here makes them).
2. Wrapped BOTH lines in heat wrap on the WHOLE line. I put shrink wrap tubing around that to make sure nothing would move or come unwrapped.
3. Used a good DOT 4 brake fluid for the hydraulics (Ate Super Blue)
4. Bought a pressure bleeder from Motive along with the right adapter for the clutch master reservoir. Pressurize it, open the bleeder screw, and watch the bubbles come out.
I haven't had a bit of trouble since.
Thanks again,
John