bleeding with the mighty vac
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From: Orange Park FL
bleeding with the mighty vac Can someone give me a step by step of how to do it. I replaced my m/c hoping to fix my sticking pedal which it did't. I've allready bleed it the normal way so now I'm going to give the mighty vac a shot. I just want to be sure all the air is out before I decide to go and replace the slave.
Thanks
Jon
Thanks
Jon
Select the right size fitting to be placed in the M/C resevoir. Pump Mity Vac to 15 and hold. After you get most the air out of the system pump the clutch about 1-2 inches down for about 9 times, then press the clutch in all the way and release slow. Repeat this procedure untill clutch feels stiff.
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From: Orange Park FL
Originally Posted by flash12t
why 1-2 inches. .??
Thanks JD_Z28. I've read alot of threads about the mighty vac and everyone hails it but no one has ever explained exactly how to use it.
Originally Posted by JonB
I'm guessing it helps pump the air out.
Thanks JD_Z28. I've read alot of threads about the mighty vac and everyone hails it but no one has ever explained exactly how to use it.
Thanks JD_Z28. I've read alot of threads about the mighty vac and everyone hails it but no one has ever explained exactly how to use it.
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From: Laguna Niguel, CA
I would be cautious. Some more experienced boards members warn that the Mity Vac might ruin the seals in you Master Cylinder. I believe that master cylinder is failing because i used 25 PSI on the mity vac.
It may just be my stupidity in going to 25 PSI that ruined the Master Cyl., but I will only bleed the traditional way from now on...
It may just be my stupidity in going to 25 PSI that ruined the Master Cyl., but I will only bleed the traditional way from now on...
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Did you use this write up? Be sure not to exceed 12hg i believe because you will risk reversing the one way seal causing damage to the master.
http://performanceworks1.com/ls1_clutch_bleeding.htm
http://performanceworks1.com/ls1_clutch_bleeding.htm
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From: Orange Park FL
Originally Posted by connexion2005
Did you use this write up? Be sure not to exceed 12hg i believe because you will risk reversing the one way seal causing damage to the master.
http://performanceworks1.com/ls1_clutch_bleeding.htm
http://performanceworks1.com/ls1_clutch_bleeding.htm
It can take many cycles man. I did hours and hours of bleeding and it really didn't give me a pedal until after I tried to drive it. This of course was after a new slave, master, fluid, clutch, pp, bearings and t56 rebuild. Your case may just have a problamatic piece with your hydro setup.
Forget the mity vac. Pull the master out of the car with the reservoir attached full and capped. Turn it in various positions pumping the rod till you don't see air bubbles coming out in the reservoir anymore. You know you're done when you can't push the rod in. If you pull it, do this and you can still depress the rod you know the master's bad, if you can't then you know you've got all the air out. Reinstall the master with the reservoir full, capped, and attached.
You probably don't have a bad slave unless you see fluid leaking out of the slit in the bellhousing.
You probably don't have a bad slave unless you see fluid leaking out of the slit in the bellhousing.
