Disturbed, I am glad that you got the Hydraulic issue resolved. Let me know if you have any further questions as you complete the break-in process.

As for Slick, you are welcome to IM me with any questions or issues you have as well. I will be happy to assist you. As a side note, I am not sure that there was really any reason for your post other than to detract from an otherwise positive thread, but such is life.

 

thanks i will. i have 300 miles left on my break in but it holds strong and im not going above 3500 rpms. cant wait for the break in is done then finally comes my tune then all hell will break loose.

 

You can rev higher than 3500, just don't be abusive. The point is to drive like a normal person, ie. no clutch drops or other general crazyness until the unit is seated. Let me know if you need anything else. Thanks,

 

Well I take it easy on it and I havent taken mine above 3000 rpms but once and wont till after 350 miles. It cost me almost $2500 for the entire clutch/labor... so I am going to do it right.

 

u paid to much i paid 1000 with parts and labor

 

I also have a Vette. They dropped the rear and all for mine.

 

damn that sucks for u. lol. jk

 

Nah! Someone once said... If you wanna run with the big dogs, you got to learn how to **** in the tall weeds!

 

lol. thats a good one. i must **** on trees then. lol. jk

 

Can you explain the proper way to break in a Spec 3+ clutch setup. This is a very critical part to this clutch and should be posted somewhere. Do you resommend not to downshift? What about when you're at a light, should you just hold the clutch in the whole time or just put it neutral and let the clutch out? Disturbed Bird, you cannot go just by the amount of mileage that you have on it. There are other factors beside mileage to get it seated properly. Spec-01, how can you tell when the clutch is actually broken in being that there is not an inspection port?

 

My entire bill for the 3+ installed was 1050 bucks. That was with a new fidanza friction insert replacement for my alum flywheel, and all parts, tax and labor. Did they also install all new hydralics? If so I guess i can see over 2000....but 2500?

 

I had the new master and slave cylinder installed and got the good oil! I think it come up to a total of 23??.??

 

To break it in fully you want around 500 miles of around townm driving on it. I never recommend holding the clutch in the entire time while sitting at a light, there is no need for that. The objective is to actually use the clutch a lot and enough so that it seats good on the PP and flywheel. Just drive it normally for 500 miles, you can get on the gas a bit from a roll but dont do any dumps from a stop. You will feel it break in as the miles go along. At first it will be a PITA to drive and will chatter and require lots of gas and feathering to get going but after mine hit 300 miles it is very easy to drive and does not chatter anymore and is close to stock starting from a stop.

Bottom line is just drive it in town for 500 miles of regular driving to break it in. No driving like John Force and no driving like granny either.

 

Break-in is all about use...meaning that you need to try to actuate the unit and shift as much as possible to generate the proper amount of heat and bedding. The more that you shift and the more miles that you put on the unit before heading to the track the better. Our general rule is 500 miles, but there are some folks out there, like myself, that are so easy on clutches that 500 miles will not suffice. The suggestions below are from personal experience and should be view as such (yada, yada, yada)...

Think of a clutch like this; no matter how flat the surfaces are or how great the material used on the disc, a clutch will always wear in from the outside. This means that the outer edge will break-in more quickly and wear will progressively move inward (toward the hub). This is related to the increase in linear speed as you move away from the center line of the assembly (Greater speed in this since equates to greater friction and thus wear). The ideal situation is that you will not be hyper-agressive until the unit is contacting completely (an incompletely broken-in clutch will not have its maximum torque capacity) ...without the ability to see the unit entirely when it is installed I suggest the following:

1) Put as many city-driving miles as possible on the unit. The more you shift the better.
2) Do not launch the car during break-in.
3) Do not power shift the car during break-in.
4) Do not intentionally slip the clutch (to speed break-in).
5) Installing a clutch and driving 1000 hwy. miles will not provide adiquate break-in.
6) Do not track the car during break-in.
7) Line-lock is a must for rear-drive drag cars. The failure to use these systems can be harmful to clutch life and function.
8) If you are easy on clutches, like me, then it may be best to increase the break-in period to 1000 miles (same may require more, some may require less).
9) Though this is not break-in specific it is always better to over-clutch a car than to under-clutch a car. Plan ahead and you will reduce the chances of over-powering the unit with additional modifications.

If you ever have any questions about break-in or a specifics situation relating to your car feel free to call me. 800-828-4379 x. 109 Thanks,

 

well all my miles are city miles and abot 50 high way miles on I4 in stop and go traffic. ill be find. thanks tho