Manual Transmission T56 | T5 | MN12 | Clutches | Hydraulics | Shifters

someone please help

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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 06:18 PM
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I brought a new master. I installed it and my pedal still sticks at high rpms. now I brought a new slave about 4 months ago with my clutch setup, now do anyone think i need to change the slave again. now when i posted that my pedal sticks at high rpms, someone said i need to bleed it really good. Now i blead it and it has gotten better and now it only sticks at high rpms when going 2nd to 3rd. anyone got any help
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 07:25 PM
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bleed it more maybe. Your slave should be fine. Have you done the drill mod to the master braided line? If you havent done it, do it.
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 08:47 PM
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Bleed it more. I have seen it take 20 times to get all of the air out. Worth a try.

Thanks,
Amber
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Six Speeds Inc.
Bleed it more. I have seen it take 20 times to get all of the air out. Worth a try.

Thanks,
Amber
I did mine at least 20 times with a brand new dry master and slave.
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 09:12 PM
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thanks amber I tried to call you all and ask you that question. imma bleed it somemore and see what should do. should I do the drill mod. if you do let me know. and explain to me how to do it.
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 09:12 PM
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Yeah I see a lot of posts in here about reoccuring problems but they say "I know it doesnt need to be bled" So I dont even respond. I had to bleed mine at least 20 times when my master was dry. And more air continues to pop up every now and then.
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by brad8266
bleed it more maybe. Your slave should be fine. Have you done the drill mod to the master braided line? If you havent done it, do it.
Why do I hear so many ppl talk about this drill mod. From what I understand it is simply just a BandAid fix. Fix for now and possible more stuff to fix later. My clutch stuck to the floor and everyone suggested to do the drill mod, instead I road it out and finally the culprit revealed itself, air in the lines which led to a bad clutch which in turn screwed up my slave, which I figured out 2 clutch changes later..LOL. Now with new clutch, slave, and good bleed no more sticking to the floor.

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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 09:16 PM
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what should I do if more air keeps popping up
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by TACE02
Why do I hear so many ppl talk about this drill mod. From what I understand it is simply just a BandAid fix. Fix for now and possible more stuff to fix later. My clutch stuck to the floor and everyone suggested to do the drill mod, instead I road it out and finally the culprit revealed itself, air in the lines which led to a bad clutch which in turn screwed up my slave, which I figured out 2 clutch changes later..LOL. Now with new clutch, slave, and good bleed no more sticking to the floor.


The drill mod is done simply because GM put an actual restriction on the output of the master cylinder. It simply doesnt let enough fluid through and quick enough to allow quick high rpm shifts.
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 09:18 PM
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I always recommend the drill mod on new slaves. It is not a bandaid fix. Go to www.installuniversity.com and print the instructions. It tells you how to do it correctly with pictures

Amber
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Travose21
what should I do if more air keeps popping up
I would just keep your bleeder on stand by. If it grinds or feels notchey bleed it. Same goes if you feel like theres play in your clutch pedal.
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 09:19 PM
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The drill mod is not a band aid for anything. You can have a brand new clutch/hydros and you can run into the exact same grinding issue when shifting fast at high rpm's. the reason is that with the restrictor in the master line the clutch will not engage as fast as it should when you are speed shifting/clutching. Since the clutch isnt keeping up with your hands shifting speed it grinds a bit.

I did the drill mod when i was stock and it made a huge improvement and then I ran over 543 lbs-ft of torque through my trans/clutch/hydros with not one single issue. If my clutch was messed up in the first place like you claim then i would have broken something surely under that much power.
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 09:24 PM
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when I bleed it should my pedal stick to the floor. when I pump it up about ten or eleven times and hold it to the floor, let the fluid out and the pedal stays to the floor is that normal
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 09:34 PM
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Is This Normal. I Pump Up The Pedal And Hold It To The Floor. Then I Let The Fluid Out And Let Off The Pedal And My Pedal Is Still On The Floor. Shouldn't It Pop Back Up
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Travose21
Is This Normal. I Pump Up The Pedal And Hold It To The Floor. Then I Let The Fluid Out And Let Off The Pedal And My Pedal Is Still On The Floor. Shouldn't It Pop Back Up
You are doing it wrong if you are releasing the pedal before closing the bleeder.

Pump it a few times and hold it down, crack bleeder, close bleeder, release pedal, fill tank, repeat cycle again. Do it about 20 times and pressuer will eventually build, it takes a while sometimes.
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 10:15 PM
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No I Pump It Up And Hold It Down And I Open The Bleeder Close It Then Let Off The Pedal The Pedal Remains On The Floor. Do I Have To Keep Bleeding It Until I Get Pressure Back Up So That After I Close The Bleeder The Pedal Will Release On Its Own
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Old Mar 30, 2007 | 06:27 AM
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Yes you have to keep bleeding it. It will stay on the floor for many bleed cycles. Tehn all a sudden it will build pressure.
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Old Mar 30, 2007 | 08:02 AM
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ok imma bleed the **** out of it. man I tell ya I love this site
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Old Mar 30, 2007 | 09:28 AM
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so how do you tell if your slave is bad.
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Old Mar 30, 2007 | 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Travose21
so how do you tell if your slave is bad.
Usually it leaks.
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