whitedevil

iTrader: (9)

Just as the title says, AFTER a race, the pedal is low, and stiff, wont come up, and it feels hard to pull out of gear. This only happens after races, but the race tends to go by ok, aside from it causing me to maybe miss a shift. I replaced my fluid, and re bled it, it was all black. I ran my line behind the stock exhaust heat shield, is that good enough? What would cause this?? The pedal would only come up and feel competely normal after about 10 seconds.

Air in line? Fluid getting hot? bad slave or master cylinder?



Any help? Driving me crazy.

Z28/2002

iTrader: (27)

More than likely a bad slave

skifast87

whitedevil

iTrader: (9)

Guhh, I dont want to pull the tranny again, what a head ache. I find it odd that under normal driving, even if I beat on the car a bit, it is fine, but as soon as I really drive it hard, it does it. Then "pop" it is all normal.

subhumanzz

iTrader: (46)

mine does the same thing but then it seems to be fine after a little while. im not particularly worried about it. it seems like the clutch engages as soon as you lift off the floor when normally its not til the top of the pedal. only does it at the track. hmmm...

miamifan3413

iTrader: (1)

Mine dies EXACTLY what you just described.....it seems to engage RIGHT off the floor after any WOT runs through 2nd & 3rd gear.....other than that I have no other issue's with it. I really would like to know exactly what is happening to cause this....I did a search & come to the conclusion that some after replacing everything (clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing, flywheel,master cylinder, slave, drill mod) still have this issue.... is it just an engineering defect???

subhumanzz

iTrader: (46)

can someone chime in on this please?

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

Due to the fact that this primarily occurs after races it could easily be a temp. dependent issue, leading me to beleive that you may be boiling the fluid. However, the return to normal actuation after cool down negates this because boiled fluid would aerate and thus cause continued problems. Do you all have the drill mod on the Master?

nahasapeemapetalon

iTrader: (9)

I dont know if this will help, last summer when i would get on it from a stop the pedal would stick to the floor and id have to pull it up with my foot, was slipping. I had black murky crap in the bottom of my clutch resivoir. I was told its a master gone bad, i replaced both master and slave. Havent driven it tho...could be a bad master...jmo.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Sounds to me like boiled fluid, too many miles on DOT3 and a unwrapped clutch line, replace the fluid and wrap the line.

mcamarols1

iTrader: (9)

^yup what he said

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Mine's got 32k on it, the fluid was done once, I just wrapped the line and will be replacing, too many horror stories for not to do it.

Chuck Harmon

I've got a 2002 ZO6 with LS7 pressure plate clutch bolted to a Fidenza aluminum flywheel. I have had the same experience you described. Hard driving left the pedal very mushy, had to push down much farther to get any release. In 4th gear after a full throttle run to redline, I couldn't get the car out of gear, the clutch pedal was pushed all the way down, but it was as if it was disconnected. The clutch never stuck to the floor, however.

I Replaced the T/O and the master. Seems a little better, but I get the mushy pedal after driving a short distance soon after cold startup, but never immediately after cold startup. The pedal can normally be pushed down with one finger 3/4". When the mushy pedal syndrome kicks in, I can push the pedal down nearly 3 full inches with one finger. After driving for about 45 minutes, the clutch is usually back to normal again. Yet often after extended drives on the highway, when I then clutch the pedal has the nearly 3" slop at the top again.

I HATE HYDRAULIC CLUTCHES!!!

Pumping the pedal lightly 10-20 times, just to the point of resistance, usually brings the pedal back for a few shifts. The fluid is not the problem, I have bled it, had it bled, flushed it, etc. numerous times. I have not had black fluid.

I am told the pressure plate is self adjusting, is there something within that is changing things do to thermal expansion? Is the aluminum flywheel expanding at a different enough rate to confuse it?

I absolutely feel the frustration of others on this thread. I sure wish there was an answer.

Chuck

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

^^^ You replaced the TO bearing but didnt replace the slave whiloe you were at it?

If you havent done the drill mod then do that too.

Chuck Harmon

... Yes, the slave too. I also went with the McLeod braided line that does not have the restriction.

Chuck

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

The stock plates are self-adjusting but this should have no affect on the pedal or associated pedal effort. Once the adjustment occurs there is no way for it to reset. As much as I know you don't want to hear this but it still sounds like hydraulic issues.

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

Agree w/ all those chiming in here, you need to insulate the line. Keeping the fluid clean by flushing is also a good idea.
But I will have to say that the master sounds like it could also be a culprit.
I was also having major issues w/ hydraulics. I was hating them myself.
What has finally worked for me is the insulation, drill mod, & to me the most important part, an adjustable master w/ the proper adjustment.
Then maintained w/ regular fluid flushes. This has served me well for the past 3-4 years now.

SSwt00SS

iTrader: (18)

what do you mean by wrap the line? what would be the reason for this? i have heard of people doing that after they installed headers on their car. is this because the headers are closer to the line? Thanks...

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

You wrap the braided line rubber hose like heater or fuel hose, then tie the line as far from the header as you can. This will help out a lot in keeping the fluid from getting hot, whcih results in clutch issues.

FootLbs

iTrader: (7)

Finally, people who know!! I've been trying to explain this problem to others and they stair at me as if i own a mustang or something... I have this same problem. Every one is like "slave slave slave". But after I wrapped the clutch line and zip tied it away from the header it got.. better.. not FIXED but better than before. It's fine now on the motor, but when I spray it is still evident. It will only let me get one or two shifts in before it's stuck to the floor and wont let me go into another gear. I'm going to flush the fluid more and wrap it with what was recomended above(heater or fuel hose) in addition to the thin foil like wrap i have on it now. I'll get back with info on my situation when i try that.