Pilot bearing or pilot bushing
Hey, Stefano! How's it going?
Perusing some other threads, it looks like the bushing is getting the nod as it is less likely to break apart and damage the input shaft. This has become relevant to me as I just fried my stock (~98K miles) clutch at the track last week, and it looks like it's time for a replacement.
Don't tell me you're changing your clutch already!
Perusing some other threads, it looks like the bushing is getting the nod as it is less likely to break apart and damage the input shaft. This has become relevant to me as I just fried my stock (~98K miles) clutch at the track last week, and it looks like it's time for a replacement.
Don't tell me you're changing your clutch already!
The bearing is easier to damage while intalling the transmission (especially if you are working on your back with a car on jack-stands). I've seen input shafts destroyed as a result of a failed bearing since the rollers and and races are steel and very hard. The brass bushing, on the other hand, is pretty soft and usually doesn't damage the input shaft if it fails. I'd go with the bushing if it were my car.
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Originally Posted by Fran D
Hey, Stefano! How's it going?
Perusing some other threads, it looks like the bushing is getting the nod as it is less likely to break apart and damage the input shaft. This has become relevant to me as I just fried my stock (~98K miles) clutch at the track last week, and it looks like it's time for a replacement.
Don't tell me you're changing your clutch already!
Perusing some other threads, it looks like the bushing is getting the nod as it is less likely to break apart and damage the input shaft. This has become relevant to me as I just fried my stock (~98K miles) clutch at the track last week, and it looks like it's time for a replacement.
Don't tell me you're changing your clutch already!
Glad to see you around
I don't like how this tranny is shifting so I'm gonna rebuilt it included hydraulics, TO and pilot bearing.
I'll replace the clutch too: I have a "new" one with "only" 10'000 miles from a 2002 car.
I'm ordering the parts and I wasn't sure about a bearing or a bushing.
Older cars used to have bushings. The bearing is the "modern" version...
Is a bushing more noisy?
Originally Posted by tici
Hi Fran!
...Older cars used to have bushings. The bearing is the "modern" version...
Is a bushing more noisy?
...Older cars used to have bushings. The bearing is the "modern" version...
Is a bushing more noisy?
As for noise, my guess would be that as long as the clearances don't open up, the small surface area and impedance mismatch between the brass and steel shouldn't add up to anything perceptibly audible at all. But, that's just a guess.
Is the new clutch you're going to use a stock GM variant? Didn't you have a Spec in there?
Bushings are the old way and are maybe cheaper.
When either gose out the input shaft is damaged. The pilot is damaged with a broken bearing cage. The input bearing( internal to the trans) is damaged when the trans is operated for awhile with a worn bushing.
My suggestion is use the more efficient bearing and be careful with the trans install so that you don't damage it.
When either gose out the input shaft is damaged. The pilot is damaged with a broken bearing cage. The input bearing( internal to the trans) is damaged when the trans is operated for awhile with a worn bushing.
My suggestion is use the more efficient bearing and be careful with the trans install so that you don't damage it.
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Originally Posted by Fran D
Is the new clutch you're going to use a stock GM variant? Didn't you have a Spec in there?
Both the flywheel and the pressure plate need to be resurfaced and balanced (the engine shakes and the clutch is chattering like hell).
Spec claims an "installation issue"
I can't even kick them in the butt because of the distance
This "new" one is a stoch from a 2002 WS6 (LUK brand).
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Originally Posted by calhoon
...My suggestion is use the more efficient bearing ...
Just trying to get a handle on it.
Originally Posted by tici
...This "new" one is a stoch from a 2002 WS6 (LUK brand).
That may force my hand to an LS6 upgrade or the like. Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Fran D
Hmmm...I'm caught in a toss-up between the Textralia and Cartek offerings. I'm looking for a lot more holding power with my drag radials. Of course, my biggest dilemma is the cost! You know what a cheap SOB I am! That may force my hand to an LS6 upgrade or the like.
That may force my hand to an LS6 upgrade or the like.I can send you my Spec stage 2. It's too expensive to resurface + balance it over here ($200 - $300).
I can check for the shipping price if you want (flywheel, disk, PP).
It has only 500 miles, no TO bearing, no pilot bearing, no adjustment tool. I have the shim. You'll better have an adjustable master cylinder, as the shim they supply is just a guess.
Price: you decide. If you like it you can send me some bucks. If you don't like it it's for free.
Originally Posted by tici
Or a LS7?
Originally Posted by tici
I can send you my Spec stage 2. It's too expensive to resurface + balance it over here ($200 - $300).
Originally Posted by Fran D
I haven't been hearing good things about it (relative to launches with drag radials), which is why I would probably tend towards the LS6.
Sorry, I've heard even worse things about them!
Sorry, I've heard even worse things about them!
Originally Posted by Fran D
How much more efficient is it?
). I'll probably stick by the old engineering rule of thumb that the fewer things moving, the better, and go down the bushing path. 
Originally Posted by MeentSS02
If you are thinking you'll be getting away from the LS7's launching problems by going with an LS6 clutch, I think you'll end up disappointed.
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Originally Posted by Fran D
So what's wrong with the headers?
no big power gain
rusting
overheating the engine bay
...
they look better in the office than under the car
Originally Posted by GMRACER13
I've seen input shafts destroyed as a result of a failed bearing since the rollers and and races are steel and very hard.