Replacing the master SUCKS!!
#1
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Replacing the master SUCKS!!
Just venting
What a crappy project, it ranks right up there with our motor mounts for "small simple parts that are buried in the engine bay and frustrating as hell!"
Last time I swapped one, the engine was out of the car. It's a lot easier when your standing inside an empty engine bay
Tech info in case it can help somebody:
- www.installuniversity.com has a good write-up on their mcleod master install
- The PITA is trying to pull the master out once it's unbolted. What worked for me: Once everything is unfastened and you are ready to pull the master out of the car, first push the reservoir under the brake booster and to the other side so that it's between the booster and the exhaust manifold. Then pull up a little on the hydraulic line to get some slack (it will try and wedge itself between the inner fender and the steering shaft). At this point the master should slide forward and inboard so that it ends up above the steering shaft. As you pull it forward, rotate it slightly toward the passenger side. This will feel natural since the reservoir line is already putting pressure for it to roll that way (if you already pushed the reservoir under the booster).
Re-install is easier. I dropped the hyd line down, laid the master on the steering shaft, and pushed the reservoir under the booster into it's proper area. Then as you slide the master in, rotate it to the left as it goes through the wall.
If this helps one person in the slightest, that's good.
What a crappy project, it ranks right up there with our motor mounts for "small simple parts that are buried in the engine bay and frustrating as hell!"
Last time I swapped one, the engine was out of the car. It's a lot easier when your standing inside an empty engine bay
Tech info in case it can help somebody:
- www.installuniversity.com has a good write-up on their mcleod master install
- The PITA is trying to pull the master out once it's unbolted. What worked for me: Once everything is unfastened and you are ready to pull the master out of the car, first push the reservoir under the brake booster and to the other side so that it's between the booster and the exhaust manifold. Then pull up a little on the hydraulic line to get some slack (it will try and wedge itself between the inner fender and the steering shaft). At this point the master should slide forward and inboard so that it ends up above the steering shaft. As you pull it forward, rotate it slightly toward the passenger side. This will feel natural since the reservoir line is already putting pressure for it to roll that way (if you already pushed the reservoir under the booster).
Re-install is easier. I dropped the hyd line down, laid the master on the steering shaft, and pushed the reservoir under the booster into it's proper area. Then as you slide the master in, rotate it to the left as it goes through the wall.
If this helps one person in the slightest, that's good.
#3
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Its 10Xs easier if you remove the brake master from the booster, unbolt the ABS block from the bracket and pull the whole assembly forward and rest the brake master on the cowl and then unbolt the booster from the firewall. I can change a clutch master in about 30 minutes.
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Originally Posted by Country Boy
Its 10Xs easier if you remove the brake master from the booster, unbolt the ABS block from the bracket and pull the whole assembly forward and rest the brake master on the cowl and then unbolt the booster from the firewall. I can change a clutch master in about 30 minutes.
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I did mine with everything still in the bay. It took me a little while and a lot of swearing. My hands looked like they went through a meat grinder by the time I was done. Never again.
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Originally Posted by wrencher
They can be a pain. The McLeod is worse without using the U bolt. Lining up just the single loose bolts can be big fun.
But once you have done it once it will not be near as difficult the next time.
But once you have done it once it will not be near as difficult the next time.