slave or master?
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 309
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From: Metro Detroit
slave or master? just did a textrilla less about 1k ago. and had the slave replaced about 500 ago. fluid is back to being black and when the car is on the clutch is real mushy up top and is tough to get in to gear. could this be the master this time or the slave again. I would hate to just throw new parts at it. any ideas?
If the fluid is black than that means the fluid is boiling. The boiled fluis will cause the hydros to airate which will cause major clutch issues. You need to do a complete flush and rebleed. You also need to wrap the master braided line with heater hose and tie it off away from the exhaust system. Once you do all this and prevent the fluid from getting hot then your issues will stop.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 309
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From: Metro Detroit
Originally Posted by brad8266
If the fluid is black than that means the fluid is boiling. The boiled fluis will cause the hydros to airate which will cause major clutch issues. You need to do a complete flush and rebleed. You also need to wrap the master braided line with heater hose and tie it off away from the exhaust system. Once you do all this and prevent the fluid from getting hot then your issues will stop.
Originally Posted by maverick18
cool thanks, is there a fluid out there that has a higher boiling point that your standard?
Originally Posted by jetblast
bleed the clutch using the pedal method first and then the vacum method, do not go over 20in/hg.
Launching!
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 232
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From: nj, edison
bleed clutch gravity beed first, then bleed with the pedal, pumping at least 10 times , do this 2-3 times but when cracking the bleeder don't wait till fluid stops flowing, close it sooner. then use the mightyac, don't go over 20in/hg vacum, if you see bubbles you are not done, i let mine sit overnigh at 20in/hg and the gauge droped to 13, second time at 20 again and it droped to like 18 overnight, my shifts are smooth at 6500rpm shifts. good luck!
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Metro Detroit
Originally Posted by brad8266
The vacuum method has been known to damage seals in the hydraulic system. You can get a perfect bleed doing it manually without risking seal damage.
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Laguna Niguel, CA
Originally Posted by brad8266
The vacuum method has been known to damage seals in the hydraulic system. You can get a perfect bleed doing it manually without risking seal damage.
I have a master cylinder that I think has been ruined from using the mityvac @ 25In/hg.
And does it really take 30 cycles at the bleeder to get a good bleed?
I bled mine a month ago and I only cycled it about 6 times...
Is that not enough?