2000 M6 Trans Fluid
04-29-2007, 12:16 PM
#1
2000 M6 Trans Fluid What Trans Fluid For A 2000 M6 It Was Rebuilt Two Years Ago Through Gm If That Matters Dont Know Maybe They Upgraded Something That Some Oils Dont Go With?it Has A Spec Stage 2 In It Shifts Fine Just A Little Notchy And Hard To Get In At High Rpms.just Want To Get Some New Fluid In And See What Happens Then Go From There,it Was Still A Little Notchy When They First Rebuilt It And Im Pretty Sure They Put Synchromesh So I Just Want See If Theres Smoother Shifting Oils.
04-30-2007, 03:29 AM
#6
TECH Resident
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: TEXAS
Posts: 989
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OEM DEXIII FTW, period, try a search
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/290247-t56-fluid.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/290247-t56-fluid.html
Trending Topics
04-30-2007, 06:08 AM
#8
any dexron III fluid should work, depending on the condition of your transmission though, that may change.
most synthetics tend to be on the lighter side of thickness. worn syncros will be more exposed with these fluids in the form of notchier shifts.
With OEM stuff, while it may be smoother, on colder days a worn syncro transmission will seem tougher to get into gear than when warmed up.
What I found was until I had ALL my hydraulics upgraded, I suffered from grinds in the WOT 1-2 shift and 2-3 shift. Turned out that when I finally changed the master that grind all but went away. ( I only did the slave when I changed my clutch) Even my rebuilder showed me that the condition of the internals were great like they were babied, a testament to synthetics level of protection despite "grinding" with the poor hydraulics, no drill mod, and plenty of track runs in this 1-2, 2-3 grinding condition.
most synthetics tend to be on the lighter side of thickness. worn syncros will be more exposed with these fluids in the form of notchier shifts.
With OEM stuff, while it may be smoother, on colder days a worn syncro transmission will seem tougher to get into gear than when warmed up.
What I found was until I had ALL my hydraulics upgraded, I suffered from grinds in the WOT 1-2 shift and 2-3 shift. Turned out that when I finally changed the master that grind all but went away. ( I only did the slave when I changed my clutch) Even my rebuilder showed me that the condition of the internals were great like they were babied, a testament to synthetics level of protection despite "grinding" with the poor hydraulics, no drill mod, and plenty of track runs in this 1-2, 2-3 grinding condition.
