Manual Transmission T56 | T5 | MN12 | Clutches | Hydraulics | Shifters

The bleeding stops here

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Old May 6, 2007 | 09:00 PM
  #1  
Keith Breslin's Avatar
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Default The bleeding stops here

I spent 30 min tring to get a pedal from the bottom by bleeding the hydralics then said screw it, and I did my research. Everyone out there having a problem bleeding this clutch go to autozone get a mighty vac and epoxy a nipple over the tiny vent hole in the master cylinder cap hook the hose from the mightyvac to the nipple and make sure the master cylinder is no more the half way full with fluid. (also remove the rubber insert) and beggin to pump the mighty vac you will start seeing little air bubbles hit the cap that is what you want. It wont hold a exactly vacum number but if you can work it up to around 12 in of vacum that will be fine as you are working the vacum get a friend to work the pedal. As you are pumping the mighty vac at first you wont see the gag move much at all but once the air starts leaving the system it will pump up more and more vacum but like i said all that is needed is 12 - 15 in of vac. Trust me it will work and you will be the happiest person alive without having brake fluid all over your shirt.
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Old May 6, 2007 | 09:28 PM
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I will be PRAYING tonight that this will work on mine. We towed it to the shop this afternon. I swear I am going to cry
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Old May 7, 2007 | 01:23 AM
  #3  
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From: phoenix az
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i hope wal mart has one im tired of trying to bleed it
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Old May 7, 2007 | 02:01 AM
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Hi, I went from the underside 1st. Used a punch to locate the center. Hole saw, 1 7/8 to drill an access hole from the inside sheet metal. ( On drilling the hole.) I drilled a small 1/8 inch hole 1st, found it didn't line up with the center of the bleeder. close but not right on center. From under the car, leave the bit in & you can see where your inital starter hole lines up. You will thank yourself later on cutting the access hole. You can see the bleeder now, access it with a deep well. Use some clear plastic tubing. I had some that I had to use the grinder to grind down the outside hose O/D a bit to push the hose into the center of the bleed screw. Plastic hose will go thru the center of the deep well when it's on the bleeder. You can loosten & tighten the bleeder by grabbing on the end of the deep well. Or do as I did on welding a small rod on the end of a deep well for a handle. Now you can watch bubbles go thru when your bleeding. Loop the hose down then over the brake petal & not just lay it on the floor. Bubbles will be seen traveling down the hose & then up. I also lowered the window & looped the hose over the front top of the door. Down to a jar to catch the fluid. Bleeding can be done inside the car. Petal operation, open & close the bleed screw. Watch for bubbles. Did both ways with the Mityvac & regular way. Personally. The vac did ok, but I got better results on watching the bubbles go thru doing it manually. And when they didn't anymore. Open bleeder, push petal down by hand, close bleeder, let petal up. Wait sbout 10 sec & do it again & again. ( You want the internals on the master to return back to normal position to open the port to refill the internal cyl with fluid from the resivour. Why you wait 10 sec.) Just have to have a friend keep the resivoir full when your doing it. Dave

Last edited by locodave46; May 7, 2007 at 02:26 AM.
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Old May 7, 2007 | 05:24 AM
  #5  
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From: phoenix az
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i just used the mityvac and in less then a minute i was done. never even let it go over 8hg and the clutch is better then before. i wont ever use anything else again. best 30$ i ever spent
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Old May 7, 2007 | 08:26 AM
  #6  
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I use the "drag friend out, offer beer to push pedal on command" method.

Worked great for me so far...
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