Trying to remove the clutch MC
Nope, once you get the u-bolt out just keep wiggling it untill it comes out. You'll need the line disconnect from the slave, and the linkage disconnected from the clutch pedal obviously. When you install the new one, bench bleed it and install it with the reservoir connected and full.
i dunno about wiggle but i think itll turn.... i pulled my master out from the bottom of the car. i installed the new one from the top of the car. to make hooking the u bolt up easier, when the mc is in place hook it to the pedal and thatll help line it up with the holes.
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo Tried to get it out again today and finally got it with help from my dad it was a bitch. It kept wanting to go up and hit the brake booster and the U-bolt kept binding up. After I got it all out we seen the u-bolt needed stretched a little bit then it didnt bind up.
Yeah I just replaced mine last week. What a PITA!!! Luckily we had the trans out for my clutch swap so we could reach up from the bottom and down from the top. But what a chore. I had to wear kevlar sleeves on my arm as the engine block was tearing into my arm trying to manipulate that master into place. But it is all in now. I just hope I don't have to do that again anytime soon.
We had the same trouble with the u-bolt binding but finally managed to get it to line up and pop in. Had one of us pushing from outside and one wiggling from the inside and to put the nuts on once it slid in.
We had the same trouble with the u-bolt binding but finally managed to get it to line up and pop in. Had one of us pushing from outside and one wiggling from the inside and to put the nuts on once it slid in.
Teching In
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: Holly Hill, Florida
Remove from the top?
Originally Posted by 02NBMWS6
you guys are doing it from the top right? i had a hell of a time when i tried to do it from the bottom. From the top its only a 20 minute job
I have to take mine back out, The "auto parts store" apparently sold me the wrong master. Which is the problem i'm having in my last thread. The rod is just over 1/4" to long causing the pedal to be about 1 1/2" higher then it should be.
i just installed a ram adjustable and it was a pita also.....you need to take off the resivor tube and slide the assembly at an angle towards your exhaust.....seems like a pain but i fished mine in from the bottom and a buddy was inside by the firewall and grabbed the linkage to pull it into the correct spot....good luck man
go in from the top of the engine bay on the left side of the brake booster and you should be able to get your hand right on it. Once its loose, mine came out with only a couple of wiggles. it took me 20 minutes to do it that way and about 45 minutes trying to force it in from underneath. i would never try it from the bottom again.
I was going to do the drill mod but a guy that runs a local performance shop mods the mc and makes it adjustable so im taking the assembly to him and he will do the drill mod for me also and flush it with new fluid.