who else is using the Spec Super twin?
not only was the pedal engagement high, the throwout bearing was RIDING the PP, which was PUSHING MY CRANK (AND YOURS) FORWARD. needless to say, this took out my thrust bearing, which in turn took out my crank (crank is done, you can literally push it back and forth .045", which is alot), and fooked my #1 counterweight, all the main bearings, rubbed my #1 cap..etc etc etc. i had no idea until i took the motor apart. be careful guys
you can't expect a clutch for these applications to work like a stocker does with lots of middle ground in the travel.
I am using a twin disc on my new build... haven't driven it yet but don't expect it to be much different from my old stg 5, which was very streetable. I got used to the on/off switch.
.I don't expect it to work like a stocker, but I do expect it to work as advertised. I also don't have a problem with on/off engagement- I have driven/owned numerous clutches over the years with very finicky clutches. The problem is it grabs all the way at the top 1/4 to 1/2" and never quite felt "right", like it the pressure plate was never fully "unsprung" before the pedal hit the stop.
With my air gap being as tight as it was and the fact that it is now slipping, I am convinced it is just that the clutch assembly is about 1/8" or so too tall for this application, though machining the slave or throw out bearing are an easy fix. Just sucks that they always have the "never heard of that one before, they grab about half way" answers when apparently numerous people have encountered the high pedal issues and tight throwout to pressure plate air gap. I wish they would offer to help more with figuring out why their $1500 clutch isn't working properly instead of saying "nope, clutch works fine- it's the car that's off"... I feel that the clutch should be made for the car, not the other way around
. And if it is the other way, they at least need to tell you what to look out for and what may need to be addressed in order to use it instead of saying "nope, never heard of that". I would not have a problem if they told me from the start that it sounded too tight instead of me having to pull my trans AGAIN to figure it out for myself... Now, if it is worn due to the slave riding on the plate this whole time- *I'M* the one who has to pay for new disks when I was told by Spec that it was normal. Of course I'm going to be a bit upset
.Joe
not only was the pedal engagement high, the throwout bearing was RIDING the PP, which was PUSHING MY CRANK (AND YOURS) FORWARD. needless to say, this took out my thrust bearing, which in turn took out my crank (crank is done, you can literally push it back and forth .045", which is alot), and fooked my #1 counterweight, all the main bearings, rubbed my #1 cap..etc etc etc. i had no idea until i took the motor apart. be careful guys
. Like I said, they at least need to let people know how critical the slave to pressure plate air gap measurement is in the instructions and not tell you to just put it in then tell you that you must have done something wrong if there is a problem. If I find a thrust issue with my motor when I pull the trans, I will be beyond FURIOUS- and that's putting it nicely!
Joe
. From what I can get trying to measure by myself and hold the straight edge and such, it appears to be no more than ~1/32". I don't know if that's enough to make it slip or not, but something is going on.Joe
Joe
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. Hopefully there is something they can offer to make it right- this is nuts. I have had issues from day one with this thing being too tight and they just leave it in my hands to make it fit. I can't magically get 1/4" from somewhere...Joe
I did assemble a stock clutch and flywheel and measure it along side the Spec and guess what- the spec is exactly 1/4" taller- exactly what my error is and how much space I figured I needed to come up with somehow...
Here is a pic of the spec and stocker side by side. The shadow makes it look like a bigger gap than there is, but there is exactly 1/4" between the clutch fingers and the angle bracket I used to measure it. Also, to rule out any bends or variations in the metal I used, I flipped and rotated it every way possible and the difference was the same. While I wouldn't say it is straight enough to measure thousandths with, it certainly was straight enough to measure a 1/4"
. I don't see why they wouldn't recommend a single disc stg 5. Myself and several others have put over 1200 rwtq though them. They advertise them at 1200 tq rating.
I don't see why they wouldn't recommend a single disc stg 5. Myself and several others have put over 1200 rwtq though them. They advertise them at 1200 tq rating.
. They did say that this is more streetable though. Maybe when it works right, I dunno..Joe
Joe
Last edited by kwiksilverz; Sep 12, 2007 at 11:16 AM.
Joe





