ggr12

hey i need some help finding a good Spec stage 2 clutch. do any of you have any suggestions on finding an affordable, durable clutch?
thanks

14u2nv

I would stay away from SPECs stage 2 clutches, if you really want a SPEC clutch go with a stage 3 or 4. Personally, I have a SPEC stage 3 carbon in my 00 WS6 and it is a decent clutch. I had the clutch in my 99 SS but when I had my H/C installed I upgraded to a RAm 6130/402 VDS clutch kit, and installed the SPEC into the WS6 since I already had it and it only had 900 miles on it. My RAM clutch is MUCH MUCH MUCH MUCH better then the spec. The RAM bites much harder then the SPEC, doesn't chatter at all, and it much more streetable in my opinion then the SPEC. If you are under say 370RWHP, don't use slicks, and see limited track(drag strip) usage you could go with a 2002 LS6 clutch(I would get a new slave cylinder, new flywheel bolts, and new pressure plate bolts too). If you want a better clutch I would go with one of these: RAM 6130/402 VDS, RAM 910/402, CARTEK, or Mcleod REV-lok II. If you don't listen do any advice in your LS1 experience listen to this: GM knew the 10 bolt in the f-bodies was VERY VERY weak. The Ls1 has 350lbs of torque stock. GM installed a weak pressure plate and a non-aggressive disk to act as a cushion or "pillow" if you will. The weak clutch absorbs the shock when you let out the clutch, dump it, or drive aggressively. GM did this on purpose so the rear-end would hopefully last until the 3/36 warranty was up. Eventually the clutch would wearout or break then you upgrade it. Keep in mind when you upgrade to one of the aftermarket clutches I listed above, there will no longer be a "pillow" to absorb the torq. The new clutch will transfer all that torq right to the transmission. The tranny will then either break(unlikey but has happened) or transfer the torq to the driveshaft. The driveshaft will either break(not common unless you are running really sticky tires, I have seen cars go 10s with the stock aluminum driveshaft with M6 trans)or transfer the power to the rear-end. This is where it gets really interesting! I have seen many guys run full slicks and clutch dumping off rev limiter and get many passes(the lucky guys), BUT I have seen even more break the rear-end. My personal experience: I had a very mild H/C in my 99 SS(about 360RWHP) and had my SPEC stage 3 carbon in for 700 miles with no abuse(break-in). I was running bald Goodyear Eagle F1s. I was coming down a on-ramp to the highway. I decided to jump on it at about 20 mph in 1st. I spun through 1st, spun through a speed shift(not a power shift), hit second, spun thround most of second, slammed third, going really good, slam forth and BANG BANG BANG... I starting slowing down and coasting to the emergency lane, the bangs got faster and louder as I slowed down. At about 5-8mph the rear locked up with a CRUNCH! I had to wait 4 hours for a tow truck to come with wheel dollies to bring me home. I ripped the teeth off about half the the ring gear. When the rear locked up it locked the entire drivetrain, in turn it BLEW my SPEC clutch to bits(actually the pressure plate{broke 3 fingers right off} and the snapped all the rivets in the middle of the disk). Luckily SPEC gave me another for a discounted price, and its in my 00 WS6 after break-in miles in the SS. I make it a habit of putting at least 500 miles on for my clutch break-in. I have had three clutches so far total, and all have had almost 800 miles each or round about. Over kill?? Yes but better safe then sorry, BTW all city, stop and go. Sorry took so long!

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

i havent seen a stage 2 that chattered less than my stage 4 so just get the stage four and then your good for 6oo rear wheel hp or so.

69camarolq4

What do you guys think of Centerforce clutches?. I have a 500-550hp 460lbs torque LQ4 going in my 69 Camaro and just found out the clutch in my 02 T56 is cooked. Any recommendations for replacement? and are the stock A/C Delco clutches any good?. Car will be used as a daily driver not drag or show car. Thanks.