PureWS6

This needs to be made a sticky. Great write up!

Sharpe

iTrader: (7)

DAVESS02

iTrader: (30)

I work at a facility with a lift and a trans jack. So I'm gonna try to eliminate the adjuster in the PP from the equation. I know that if I run the car through the first three @ WOT, I cant get into 4th because the pedal doesnt fully disengage the clutch. If I pump the pedal 3 times, I have normal operation again. So, if I run the **** out of it through 3rd and coast into a work bay, I can pull the trans and see the position of the PP adjuster. Then I just have to bolt the trans up flush and pump the clutch 3 times and see if the adjuster position has moved.
Its worth noting that the behavior of my PP and pedal is different than most. I believe its due to my ceramic button disk. Before I put the disk in, my pedal would stick to the floor. Now, my pedal comes up all the way, but it still wont fully disengage the clutch. Anyway, if I get the time this saturday, I'll do that and try to get some pics. If not this weekend, then next. It sucks not being able to run 1/4 and I dont have the funds for a tex right now. Besides that, like I said, I'd like to know WTF the deal is just to know.

5550racing

I think it's safe to say if you can rev your car with the clutch pushed in and it sticks to the floor it's a pressure plate issue. Nothings slipping, gettng heated up, anything like that... Maybe I'm crazy. That's what happens to me. Bleeding fluid out did not help my situation any. fwiw.

BayAreaSS

iTrader: (10)

Good post. I'm having a problem with my clutch pedal getting soft while i run it hard. I'm going to start at the fluid.

TORCHD 02 TA

iTrader: (39)

w00t it made it

99CAMMEDSS

iTrader: (3)

I have a question i have a 1999 camaro ss and after i put a cam and full exhaust i started
having clutch problems the clutch pedel will sometimes drop to the floor and so then i check the clutch fluid and it was empty and so then i added fluid and it worked fine then the next week it happened again so then i added more fluid.The last owner said that when they replaced the clutch they didnt bleed the system could that be the problem or is it something else?

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Extremely well written. I wish I could follow the steps as listed. I am would who would follow it exactly like you have it listed but my slave bleeder is bent and resting against the transmission, we cant get a socket on it. So I might as well replace everything and not question any part. Since I am there.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Sounds like you have a hole, there should be no air in the system and the resivoir need to be full.

hz28

iTrader: (4)

I started to have problems after 4.10 rear end. When have the 3.42 the shift intervals were long and has no problems, but now the rpms goes up quickly and the pedal got sticked to the floor.

The fluid was black, so I remplaced at the same time I did the Drill Mod. And the problem was not solved.

Then I remplaced the Master and now the pedal goes hard in power shifting and can't shift to third.

I bougth a new slave when the LS7 clutch was Instaled and I am sure the bleeding was done right.

So I already did everything is sugested in this tread, any Idea what could be next ?

I think will try RamAdjustable Master Cylinder part 510, but I am not sure if it will fit my LS7 Clutch. Any help is welcome.

PS, if any moderator can correct my speeling and edit the post to make more clear what Im trying to say, I'll apreciate.

JonB

iTrader: (3)

I'm a little confussed are you haveing a sticking pedal problem or are you just having a hard time hitting third under wot and only 3rd?

hz28

iTrader: (4)

When I went to the track, it launched good, shift to second without problems, then the pedal gone very hard and cant go 3rd, 4ht and any shift. I have to pump the pedal many times and after that, it works right at normal driving.

I ran 13.75 with 2 and a half shifts my car should run 11.8 or something, but shifting over 5.5k rpms it does not let me shift. If I make shift under 6k rpms, can go 3rd, but no 4th. My rev limiter is on 7k (G5X3 cam)

Sorry for my english and thanks for you response.

pddye

iTrader: (14)

Did the adj. master on a new master and drill mod yesterday and don't have a sticking clutch! Thanks for the writeup. I can't wait to make it to the track on the 14th.

ImpalaSSpeed96

iTrader: (10)

Thanks so much Jon! Nice write up man! Gotta love the search function!

I hate those high RPM sticks.... But mine only sticks if I don't bang it into the next gear. If I run it to the high RPMs and then push the clutch in and go the next gear to cruise it will stick. No problems yet if I'm rippin through em. But definitely going to change the fluid asap. Thanks again!

98mysticZ

iTrader: (11)

i cant wait to see what you find... i want to see if i was right and also like some one stated with the pedal in and just revving the motor will do it as well.. its the centrifigal (SP) force over powering the springs on the pressure plate... blah blah drink a few before you pull it out lol

OMGWTFBODY

iTrader: (5)

Flushed the fluid yesterday, the hole ate a socket head. (My buddy: Nah, I don't need it taped on. Thunk. $%##. Maybe I did need tape...) Drained the fluid, the last bit of which was a coffee/black consistancy, and just kinda oozed. after a full flush, the system looks good. The feel on the clutch pedal changed immensely.

Then the clutch stuck to the floor during a 30 MPH roll, and the car would not come out of second gear. pumping the clutch for a minute unstuck it for normal driving again.

Sound like a dying slave to anyone?

Sharpe

iTrader: (7)

It's funny, I was almost dissapointed to learn mine didn't appear at all murkey. But, I'm also very glad! So, I changed one reservior just for measure.

Here's my question: How many reserviors does it take to change ALL the fluid? Like, if you sucked out and replaced the fluid in the reservior 20 times, would it ALL be brand new?

Yowzerman

Excellent writeup on this thread! This is where I stand: I have an '05 GTO N/A ~475/440 M6. I've had issues with the hydraulics and clutches over time. I now have a Textralia OZ 700 flywheel, PP and clutch, a new Bendix slave, a SS clutchline with brand new OEM master and a SS remote bleeder, all with ~ 2K miles on them. I'm running Motul racing fluid and have bled it many times, both with the pedal pump method and the vacuum pump method. I STILL get some loss of pedal at big throttle and difficulty getting into 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear at top rpm. Despite the excellent clutch etal, is it correct then to assume my PP fingers are causing these problems? I have several friends with GTOs running this setup with even more power and have no such problems. What would cause this problem in my car and not theirs given identical setups? What would I need to do from this point to make it go away? Another OZ 700 PP? Thanks to all of you for some insight and relief, I'm about to cry uncle!

Tom.

PS: Some further research, I've read that placing a shim behind the slave can fix this problem as well...?

Flamin' bird

iTrader: (24)

Well my first time at taking my car to the track was today and did that clutch ever fail miserably . First my b/f took it down a couple times and said the clutch pedal stuck to the floor twice on him then when I took it I couldnt even get the damn thing out of 1st! It just would not go into any gear except neutral. A very nice guy at the track who's on this board as Ranger loaned us a big syringe and a guy from another board let us use some new fluid he had and we "bleed" it sort of. It did help the next run...clutch pedal did not stick but the last run it stuck again . I had upgraded the slave and master when we installed the Spec 3 March 05 and then replaced the clutch to a LS6 so I'm guessing it's probably everything at this point but I wouldnt think the master would be bad after only 2 years and about 12k miles

OMGWTFBODY

iTrader: (5)

Just replaced the slave.

Night and DAY difference.