dansean1

iTrader: (2)

Unfortunately, no improvement. I made only one pass at the track, the pedal just did not make me feel very confident. I raced my friend way later in the night against my better judgement, nothing happened.
A side note...while going to the track, I am sure I engaged it, but the stick popped out of 4th. I have had the stick get stuck in 4th 2x now and once in 2nd. At the track, with the symptoms described, people simply said the throw out bearing is bad or going bad.
So, now, and LS7 clutch (w/ maybe an LS2 flywheel) is in the future with a 6 speed minor overhaul (probably by a local shop). sixspeedinc is a little out of my range so far...but I'll do more research on pricing.
Your info is really invaluable! I cleaned the fluid a lot!!! Unfortunately, the throwout bearing is too far gone to yield any good results.

Ranger

I'd suggest getting the clutch fluid really clean before concluding the clutch needs replacement. Random track hounds are not noted for reliable advice.

On the tranny, swapping out the fluid there two is a first self-help step and many times will solve the occasional issues that you described. If it doesn't in your case, then and only then move on to the rebuild path.

Ranger

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

No offense to anyone that does the "taking care of your clutch" procedure... But Im not sure how I feel about that. First, I think the clutch pedal getting harder could just be your leg getting tired from pumping. I just dont see how the fluid actually circulates... I feel that doing an actual bleed cycle would be much more benefitial, less wear and tear on your master cylinder/slave cylinder/leg, and you'll KNOW the fluid is good and clean. I havent tried the procedure yet though...so I might just out of curiousity. Who knows, maybe ill change my mind.

I installed a new master cylinder, and I had the pedal adjusted too low (lower than the brake pedal). I was having trouble getting into 1st and reverse. So I extended the master rod (adjustable rod) until the clutch pedal was just above the brake pedal. Now I can get into 1st and rev. easy, but my engagement is like you described. At the last 25% of the pedal. Weird thing is, sometimes it engages closer to the floor for the first time, then moves up.

I have a spec 3...and im thinking its worn. I was pretty abusive to it when I first built the car. And I got it used...with no idea how many miles were on it. I slipped it alot at first before I figured out how to drive with the alum. fly wheel.

Ranger

That protocol has been working for hundreds of owners for six years.

And it's specifically worked for me through 500+ passes at the drag strip, including records in three Z06s, without a single pedal issue.

My clutch fluid is kept clear and fresh via the reservoir and has been since new.

If you're preference is to bleed the clutch hydraulics, that works too if you do it often enough and don't mind the trouble and mess. Those with a remote bleeder are fortunate. But they are a small fraction of LS-engine owners.

The rest of us can keep the fluid clean and avoid most pedal issues by following: Taking Care of Your Clutch

Ranger

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

Like I said...I cant really say because I havent tried it. I just cant see it in my head how it works. Ive heard plenty of people say it does, but there always seems to be a few that have no luck with it.

I wish I had a remote bleeder... Too bad you cant install those darn things with the trans together. I dont know when Im changing my clutch, but Im going to buy one of those lines soon, and just keep it for the occasion.

Well..maybe ill give the "procedure" a try once my rear is back in.

J.

johnnybravo

Very informative, Ranger, thank you. But if I may ask, where is the clutch fluid reservoir located?

John

bowtierodder

iTrader: (3)

next to the brake fluid reservoir

johnnybravo

Cool. Thanks!

02BLK-SS

iTrader: (1)

Ranger suggestion is very valid for m6, a must for any track abuse. I have been flushing fluid prior to track long before I heard about the stock z06 m6 record'S (10.85@129 damn) and found rangers hyd maint info. follow his process, IF the clutch does need to be replaced get remote clutch bleeder. dirty fluid goes out the bottom to mity vac with new from the top. no air no dirt. clean quick and easy. I do not like any of the available design's. I wanted a hard line from throw out bearing to outside bellhousing, then converted to flex line. bleeder on end. I went to my local custom line and connection place and we built a kit. call Ray Goodmans in memhis and ask for f-body hydrolic clutch bleeder kit.
Most track abused m6 with shifter stuck in fourth very firmly is the tranny, sorry.

dansean1

iTrader: (2)

hey, what Ranger has provided us is very good. Think of it this way, we can do no harm by hearing it and the least is we gained something.
Wear and tear on the pedal and linkages, we hit the clutch more times than we can count during street driving...I can't see how it would hurt it, aside from tiring out our leg.
I am going to give it another shot. Can't hurt. I do know that soon, I will have an LS7 clutch installed, the 6 sp overhauled and try to have a remote bleeder installed.
thanks Ranger and to all those who present both posivitive and neg arguments. Only negativity and oppositiion can increase the strenght of something, show its true validity or completely crush it. Thanks Ranger

3.4camaro

iTrader: (1)

A high pedal means the clutch is almost dead(friction disk is out of material).

A low pedal indicates a hydraulic problem.

bwana

3.4 nailed it.
If it disengages high on the pedal you obviously have the hydraulics working. If it had air in it, it might disengage sometimes, like after you pump it...or not at all. High pedal means the pressure plate fingers are pushing the throwout bearing further back toward the trans face and it's point of engagement, ergo it takes less pedal to disengage. It'll keep doing this as it continues to wear until the clutch starts disengaging slightly, causing it to slip some in high gears (4-5-6 in the beginning), then slipping in every gear, then eventually burnt up completely.

I bet most of the Spec failures you read about in here are related to either that scenario or the TO bearing / Slave being too far forward on the press. plate fingers because of using too much shim or poor quality control in maintaining the overall correct height/clearance of the rotating assembly in relation to the face of the TO bearing/trans. Even with an Adj Slave there's not much room to work with. Not nearly as much as back in the non-hydraulic days.

Y2KFirehawk

iTrader: (12)

I must say, this thread is VERY informative!! Thank you everyone.

taws6m6

iTrader: (37)

Ok, I have a brand new clutch with adjustable master and the clutch engages very high on the pedal. Can someone explain this to me? I have been trying to get answers but nobody seems to know! This is what someone told me to do. Okay, while the car was in the air, everything installed, I pushed in the clutch tried to put it in gear, and even before it was in gear completely the tires would roll. So, i adjusted the master so that when it was in gear, with my foot all the way down on the pedal, and reving the engine, the tires would not roll. but now it engages high on the pedal. Am i right? If you have it in gear with your foot all the way down on the pedal and it wants to roll this means that it is not properly disengaging correct? I just dont want to burn up a $1000+ clutch. Does anyone know? Any experts out there?

taws6m6

iTrader: (37)

anyone out there?

taws6m6

iTrader: (37)

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