LS7 clutch OR spec stage 2!!!
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i was considering buying the ls7 clutch kit becase i can get some for cheep but now that i searched and read more bout them many people are using the aluminum flywheels with the setup to free up some wight but i was looking at the cost of the LS2 fedenza aluminum flywheel and its about a $100 more then the ls1 flywheel!!!!! but either way i am getting an aluminum flywheel but i dont know what to do now i think im going back to my origianl plan of the spec stage 2 but thats about $380 for the kit(no flywheel) and the ls7 clutch and pressure plate is i can get for $150 used, i guesss its worth the extra $100 with the money im savin from the ls7 but then i need T/O bearing and aliment tool and pilot bearing and imma get a new slave and shim it too.. so what do u guys recommend!!!!! thanksk guysss and yes i did search the forums
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Ive seen one car with 410rwph toast an ls7 clutch setup at the track and I have seen 10 second cars with spec stage 3+ or 4 last a long time...
after reading all the clutch reviews both good and bad with every company...
Im starting to feel that when you buy a clutch around $500 or less it becomes a crap shoot on if its going to last or not. the only guaranteed clutchs are twin disk that cost $1300+ and even those let go at times... (previous statements are based off cars that are not stock)
it just comes down to:
how the car is driven (some people claim to know how to drive manual, but dont)
quality of the clutch install / setup
proper break in period..
some people do not break the clutch in properly, glaze the friction plate and ruin it....
after reading all the clutch reviews both good and bad with every company...
Im starting to feel that when you buy a clutch around $500 or less it becomes a crap shoot on if its going to last or not. the only guaranteed clutchs are twin disk that cost $1300+ and even those let go at times... (previous statements are based off cars that are not stock)
it just comes down to:
how the car is driven (some people claim to know how to drive manual, but dont)
quality of the clutch install / setup
proper break in period..
some people do not break the clutch in properly, glaze the friction plate and ruin it....
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ok thanks guys well i know i wont have a problem of burning my clutch becase i dont have much upgrades just bolt ons but my stock clutch has treated me pretty well so far but i think the ls7 stock replacement should do 4x better then my stock ls1 clutch and yea thanks to guys i will now look toward the ls7 100% and i will most likely need to upgrade to the new slave while im there and i am going to shim it but its mandatory to shim it right? with the ls7 setup. thanks guys
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For what its worth I'm running the LS7 LS2 flywheel combo. about 3k miles on it now. I broke it in real REAL careful lots of town driving little to no romps until I had about 750 miles on it.
Since then? Heck I've been beating the hell out of it at the track running a best of 12.2 with a 1.69 60' on Et street radials and all is well. Smooth engagement not a peep of trouble so far and I have well over thirty five passes on it. I'm pleased
New hydraulics too with drill mod
Since then? Heck I've been beating the hell out of it at the track running a best of 12.2 with a 1.69 60' on Et street radials and all is well. Smooth engagement not a peep of trouble so far and I have well over thirty five passes on it. I'm pleased
New hydraulics too with drill mod
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sounds like the ls7 clutch is the one for me
but if i buy the clutch and pressure plate from SDPC website i will also need the T/O bearing pilot bearing and new slave and the shim for the slave right? and i will be gettin an LS2 fedenza aluminum flywheel aswell
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the new slave will probably come with the throw out bearing installed..... dont forget to get a clutch alignment tool and a puller to remove the pilot bearing (dont try to pack the crank with grease or anything else... there is a soft plug in the crank that you could push out). Im not sure if your going to need a shim or not. I didnt use one and ive heard of alot of people not using them as well... its your call i guess. good luck
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wow thanks for the help greasemonkey hummm i think i might go with the 1/8 inch thick shim i can make my self i heard people talkin bout there pedal woes going away with using that shim! but i dont know im pretty undecided now.
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Originally Posted by Zero4488
Not trying to hi-jack, but I like my centerforce...no problems with it....
i was considering the centerforce but i heard people having problems with that shifting at high rpms! so thats why that clutch is out but i im not sure maybe some people could have that clutch working fine i guess