View Poll Results: After doing the drill mod, did you notice a difference in your high/any RPM shifting?
Voters: 108. You may not vote on this poll
Drill Mod Poll
ok i have been delaying the drill mod for weeks now only because i jus cant push that stupid whit plastic ring around the clutch fluid line, installuniversity says use 2 screw drivers but no luck )= i dont know what to do, anybody hav eny tips??? thanks
TECH Resident
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 781
Likes: 0
From: Taxme, Ohio
The line removal tool is about $5 and available from the auto parts stores. I used the one for ford applications because it was the only one they had at the time. It didn't fit the best but still worked. The tool makes a very difficult job with screw drivers into a simple one minute effort.
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
From: S/W Burbs Illinois
Hi, After the drill mod. You can tell it engauges faster. You guess at when to stop drilling into it as you don't want to damage the hose. Diffrent feel on the drill when your going thru metal & get to the rubber hose. Gets Grabbyer. On bleeding later. Your still going to get small pieces of rubber in the fluid no matter it seems. How good you thought you flushed the hose out later. My son & I flushed the hose out, we think. Good after the drilling. 2 ppl helps doing it. Few bleeds later as a soft petal & still getting little chunks of rubber & left over air in the fluid. Would we do it again? Yup. Dave
TECH Resident
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 781
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From: Taxme, Ohio
If you drilled and got rubber from the hose then you have compromised its strength. Not only has some of the metal end crimp fitting strength been diminished but now the interior of the hose has a radial cut that makes the hose more vulnerable to tearing or bursting. I see where some people use a drill as large as 9/32nds. Even 1/8 is larger than the interior of the fitting crimp as evidenced by how much steel comes out with the drill. 7/32nds insures that only the restrictor gets enlarged. A very small amount of metal is removed that will sit on your finger tip but that is all that is creating the restriction. With the correct size drill there is no guessing where to stop. You insert the drill into the fitting until it goes no farther. Start the drill with light pressure and within an eigth inch you will feel it break through the orifice. Removing anything else does nothing but place debris in the hydraulic system and the enlargement at that point goes back to the smallest diameter of the hose. Nothing is gained by going larger than the restricting orifice.
Hmm, there are a lot more Maybes and Nos in the poll results than I would have thought. I just think it's one of those mods that is basically free if you can do it yourself and it won't hurt anything, so why not give it a shot?
TECH Resident
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 781
Likes: 0
From: Taxme, Ohio
I chose option #2 because the wording of #1 would have indicated a dramatic difference; perhaps others had the same conservative reaction. I could have chosen #1 but #2 was a little closer to being most accurate. Even after the mod the hydraulics do feel a little sluggish at times. Before the mod, the hydraulics felt sluggish all the time. I still recall when I first drove the car after the fix. There was an improvement - it was better; just not "absolutely a big difference" type of change. I think the whole master / slave hydraulic system could be improved and hard core racers probably go with aftermarket parts for that effect.
For my style of driving, I don't really want the hard snap type of reaction. It would be nice at the track but in city traffic I think a little buffering is still something useful.
For my style of driving, I don't really want the hard snap type of reaction. It would be nice at the track but in city traffic I think a little buffering is still something useful.
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Verdad Gallardo yes here u go http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...sity/index.htm go to install guides and then drill mod under transmission
When I got my Ram HD install instructions it came with the instructions for the mod. It said any racing at all do the mod to prolong clutch life and to grab harder and faster. Im guessing if Ram recommends it it must be needed.
Only way to go, done four on those drill mods, only problem, pain in the a-- getting the master back in, but well worth it, no grind, and with a 125 shot, I'm having no problems.
12 Second Club
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,498
Likes: 0
From: Corpus Christi
this might help with disconnecting line. line already has the "tool" that is required to remove line. the white plastic piece and a diagonal split on it, I rotate it so it's facing me. then with needle nose pliers I push the white plastic in till it's in all around. then grap line with needle nose and it pulls out with little effort. just make sure around white plastic is all in...... hope this helps.........
this might help with disconnecting line. line already has the "tool" that is required to remove line. the white plastic piece and a diagonal split on it, I rotate it so it's facing me. then with needle nose pliers I push the white plastic in till it's in all around. then grap line with needle nose and it pulls out with little effort. just make sure around white plastic is all in...... hope this helps.........
