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Clutch swap/trans removal sticky!!!

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Old 04-06-2008, 11:10 AM
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Direct replacement, you'll need the new flywheel tho.
Old 04-06-2008, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by socmguy
Direct replacement, you'll need the new flywheel tho.
I have that, I was just worried about shims for the slave.

Thanks!

Ryph
Old 04-12-2008, 11:07 AM
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Hey Brad or anyone else. I jsut bought the textrilla z grip and was wondering does it come with the TOB??

Also, being that i have an 02 T/A, will my stock master be fine with the drill mod? Or should i replace it and do the drill mod?

One more thing, should i jsut get a OEM slave, or should i go with an LS6 slave?

Thanks
Old 04-14-2008, 09:05 PM
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yes i have just some jacks and jack stands and i used the car ramps this was on a 2000 z28. as far as tools i used, 21mm or 3/4 for torque arm, i think 7or11mm for u joint, and 15mm 13mm for bell housing (if u want to take it off) and tranny (7/16 for bleeder) same sizes i believe for flywheel and preasure plate thats all i can remember. 20 inch exstenstion a swivel would be a plus. I would also recommend taking the shift box of from inside the car will make clearance a whole lot better for dropping and putting up the tranny
Old 04-30-2008, 10:31 AM
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GM manual also states progresively tighten the flywheel to 75 ft-lb, start at 15 ft-lb to 37 ft-lb then final at 75 ft-lb
Old 05-13-2008, 07:22 PM
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In the process of dropping mine now all tranny bolts to bell housing and about to break it free from the bell housing. If u guys want pictures id be happy to take some for u. And yes its on jack stands no lift. lol
Old 05-16-2008, 11:56 AM
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well me and a friend of mine just did it in 4 hours. both of our first time doing it. 2 hours to get everything out took a day to resurface the flywheel and puttingit all back in today.
Old 05-16-2008, 11:56 AM
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and thats on our backs with jack stands.
Old 05-18-2008, 09:22 PM
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Diving into doing my clutch this week. With this writeup and the Install University one it shouldn't be that bad. One question though, what tranny and clutch fluids should I be buying/replacing while I'm doing this?
Old 05-25-2008, 04:35 PM
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Any Tips on getting the trans to mate up the last inch or so to get the bolts to thread up to the bell housing???
Old 05-26-2008, 12:18 AM
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It's a pain in the ***, just wiggle, fight, and cuss it will go in. Just when I almost gave up, it went in. A transmission jack would of helped out big time.
Old 07-22-2008, 11:10 PM
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good stuff.. I will definitely go this route and save myself the labor cost.
Old 08-08-2008, 01:31 PM
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Anybody in chicago wanna make 150 bucks to do this for me if you can knock it out in 4 hours or less, if you have some experience. I think my clutch is going out and will have to do it soon :O Going to do the ls7 and new slave.
Old 08-08-2008, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by mercer
do i have to replace my slave when i replace the clutch?
I've got this same question. At what mileage is it a good idea to replace the slave cylinder? My car's got 40,000 miles on it and I'm guessing the slave in there is in good shape at the moment. If it isn't leaking will I be safe leaving it alone for a good period of time?
Old 08-21-2008, 06:55 PM
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I wish I read this yesterday. I just pulled the tranny with the bellhousing still attached. what a bitch that was!
Old 08-23-2008, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by D-Webz
Any Tips on getting the trans to mate up the last inch or so to get the bolts to thread up to the bell housing???
I'm stuck on this at the minute too man. It's frustrating because the alignment tool slides in and out easy as pie. Well back to try again
Old 09-12-2008, 02:15 PM
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What did you guys use to remove the slave? I have pushed int he white plastic ring with a screwdriver and tried remopving it with a pair of pliers.. I have a whole new master and slave ready to go in...

I have the tranny istting on my benchtop right now, and have the ls7 clutch set-up ready to get going and everything... yet this silly slave unit is making me want to cry haha.

SO embarassing,.,. it really cant be this hard to remove...

The tool suggested in the service manual, looks like crap... I dont see why i cant use a screwdriver and push that white plastic in as far as itll go and just slide it off with a pair of pliers,... but OHHH NOO... Im not that lucky.
Old 09-13-2008, 11:14 AM
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just keep working it. i pushed down with both thumbs and worked it. now im having a great time trying to get the new master in
Old 09-24-2008, 01:35 AM
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So when is it necessary to replace the master and slave cylinder? Also, when replacing those, use OEM LS1 or LS6? Except for the rear main seal, what other area we should pay attention to leak?

I'm about to replace the clutch and I don't wanna get stuck in the middle for more additional parts/gasket.
Old 09-24-2008, 02:02 AM
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Default slave cylinder

Originally Posted by dannyo210
I've got this same question. At what mileage is it a good idea to replace the slave cylinder? My car's got 40,000 miles on it and I'm guessing the slave in there is in good shape at the moment. If it isn't leaking will I be safe leaving it alone for a good period of time?

My slave cylinder just went out 74k on the car



I am in the process of replacing the slave cylinder, everything is going pretty smooth besides getting to one of the 8 bolts going from the trans to the bell housing, its the top 15mm bolt on the passenger side, there seems to be a small metal tube running right over it and i cant seem to get a socket on it. has anyone run into this problem? any ideas?


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