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Old Sep 17, 2007 | 12:35 PM
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I called you guys a few weeks ago talking about my transmission. I'm not sure if its my clutch or transmission. A few months ago my car started to make chattering noises and it only occurs when I leave from a stop (1st or Reverse). Also when I shift at high RPMs I noticed that it won't go into gear smoothly and fast like it used to. When I downshift when coming to a stop sign I can kinda hear a slight grind, but its not so ruff or loud. Do you think this could be my clutch? Please reply SixSpeenInc. when you get the chance.
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Old Sep 17, 2007 | 12:37 PM
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If I get a new clutch should I change the hyraulics, slave, and master? How much will that cost (not including the price of clutch)?
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Old Sep 17, 2007 | 03:49 PM
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Yes you should always replace the hydraulics. The slave will be around $140, master around $200 and pilot bearing around $10.

As for the trans issues sounds like the clutch is dragging. If you replace the clutch that will fix the issues with 1st and reverse but depending on the damage it already did it might need a 1st gear and reverse gear. Also sounds like the blocker rings are worn. That will cause the rpm issue you are having.

Hope this helps.
Thanks,
Amber
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Old Sep 17, 2007 | 04:41 PM
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Amber, is there a proper procedure to make sure that all dimension inside the bellhousing are correct BEFORE the trans is bolted back up to the car so I can be 120% sure that the car doesn't need a shim even though it is a stock type LS6 clutch...

I have a fairly new LS6 clutch (25K miles), slave (25K miles), master (15K mi), and roller pilot bearing(25K miles).

Could a ruined pilot bearing cause a dragging clutch situation? It took us a long time to align the input shaft into the pilot roller bearing and I think I may have ruined it possibly...
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Old Sep 17, 2007 | 07:57 PM
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A dragging clutch usually isn't a pilot bearing problem but it could be. It shouldn't be hard to install the input with a roller bearing. That is odd. With a bushing I can see it being an issue but not with the roller bearing.

As for alignment, we always check the distance between the slave fully compressed and the fingers of the pressure plate. Without cutting a hole in the bell you can't really do this. With a stock LS6 clutch dimensions should not be an issue.

Amber
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Old Sep 17, 2007 | 08:12 PM
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What clutch would you guys recommend for me? My mods are in sig and my future mods for NOW will just be LT headers and a tune. Should brand new stock clutch be good or maybe a LS6? How much is a LS1/LS6 clutch and where can I buy it besides from a dealer?
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Old Sep 17, 2007 | 09:11 PM
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An LS6 clutch should be just fine. As for cost I don't sell the LS6 clutch so I am not sure on that one. I would get it from one of the sponsors on here. Try Scoggin Dickey they should have them.

Amber
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Old Sep 17, 2007 | 09:40 PM
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If I do get a LS6 clutch kit will I still have to change the slave, master, & hydraulics? I will also be doing the drill mod.
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Old Sep 18, 2007 | 09:09 AM
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If your hydraulics are the original ones with the car then yes replace them.

Amber
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Old Sep 18, 2007 | 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Six Speeds Inc.
Yes you should always replace the hydraulics. The slave will be around $140, master around $200 and pilot bearing around $10.

As for the trans issues sounds like the clutch is dragging. If you replace the clutch that will fix the issues with 1st and reverse but depending on the damage it already did it might need a 1st gear and reverse gear. Also sounds like the blocker rings are worn. That will cause the rpm issue you are having.

Hope this helps.
Thanks,
Amber
Where could I get new hydraulics? Doesn't the LS7 clutch kit include a new slave/TOB? I'm also going to buy a new GM master cylinder, but is there any difference in the 99 master compared to the 02's?

Last edited by SSmokin99; Sep 18, 2007 at 03:17 PM.
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Old Sep 18, 2007 | 03:51 PM
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The one's I use to sell did not come with them but depending on where you get it they might. I would just be a throwout bearing nothing else.

Thanks,
Amber
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Old Sep 18, 2007 | 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Six Speeds Inc.
A dragging clutch usually isn't a pilot bearing problem but it could be. It shouldn't be hard to install the input with a roller bearing. That is odd. With a bushing I can see it being an issue but not with the roller bearing.

As for alignment, we always check the distance between the slave fully compressed and the fingers of the pressure plate. Without cutting a hole in the bell you can't really do this. With a stock LS6 clutch dimensions should not be an issue.

Amber
So are you saying there is no easy way to check to make sure that all of the parts are withing spec and opertating correctly mechanically...

I thought there was zero clearance with the slave compressed because the fingers push (compress) the slave and that is what pushes the pedal back?

I guess I am having a super-hard time tracking down my shifting issues and just trying to think of every possible situation.
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Old Sep 24, 2007 | 02:41 PM
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I've been driving my car for the past few days and I don't hear the chattering noises anymore. Do you guys really think this could just be my clutch?
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Old Sep 24, 2007 | 04:06 PM
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If the noise got better or went away it is very possible it is just clutch chatter and will be a-okay.

Amber
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