about ot install ls7/ls2 any tips?
09-20-2007, 06:08 PM
#1
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
about ot install ls7/ls2 any tips? anything i should know before installing this setup, ls7 clutch pack ls2/ls7 flywheel new gm pilot bushing, slave cylinder, and master cylinder. any tips or anything that would make it easier to do?
09-21-2007, 09:43 AM
#3
I recommend the drill mod while you have all of the parts out like that. And a bleeder extension is very easy to add while the slave is out too. That made bleeding my clutch so much easier!
The master removal and install is tricky but not impossible with 2 people. One in the engine bay and one in the car. More room to maneuver if you move the coil packs so you can get your arm in there and under the brake booster easier.
And yes, make sure you have plenty of extensions for the top trans bolts to the bellhousing. They are not easy to access or spot sometimes. Just be patient.
Good luck! I went through all of that back in May of this year. Good times!
The master removal and install is tricky but not impossible with 2 people. One in the engine bay and one in the car. More room to maneuver if you move the coil packs so you can get your arm in there and under the brake booster easier.
And yes, make sure you have plenty of extensions for the top trans bolts to the bellhousing. They are not easy to access or spot sometimes. Just be patient.
Good luck! I went through all of that back in May of this year. Good times!
09-21-2007, 11:19 AM
#4
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
should i remove the booster? and its in my shop and i ordered a new 01 trans am master and slave so is it revised so i dont have to do the drill mod? and i ordered the bearing it looks kinda like connecting rod bearing and do i also need the pilot bushing or that is togather?
09-21-2007, 11:35 AM
#5
Some people say they remove the booster or at least the brake master to gain room. I have done 2 clutch masters now with the booster in place. It is tough but not impossible.
I am not sure what bearing you ordered that you are talking about there. I did the clutch/pp/flywheel assy, pilot bearing or bushing, and new hydraulics (master and slave). The new master cylinder still needs to have the drill mod done. That was never changed on them, the restriction is still there. Unless you have the braided line from your old master that is already drilled. Just swap them and be done with it.
I am not sure what bearing you ordered that you are talking about there. I did the clutch/pp/flywheel assy, pilot bearing or bushing, and new hydraulics (master and slave). The new master cylinder still needs to have the drill mod done. That was never changed on them, the restriction is still there. Unless you have the braided line from your old master that is already drilled. Just swap them and be done with it.
09-21-2007, 11:44 AM
#6
I just installed mine like a stock replacement. Did not remove the master or do the drill mod. My hydraulics were working just fine, so I didn't see the need to replace or modify them. No even with the new H/C set-up am I having hydrolic issues. Still engauges like stock & holds great.
I only suggest the drill mod on other aftermarket clutch set-ups or if your stock hydraulics are giving you problems with the stock clutch. Everyone is so quick to jump on the drill mod train, but I didn't & mine still runs fine. And yes it is daily driven at least 300 miles per week.
I ordered the LS7 clutch/LS2 flywheel package with new slave & pilot bearing. Thats it along with some new clutch & tranny fluid. Also bled it with the mityvac. It worked great & only took about 20 minutes.
I only suggest the drill mod on other aftermarket clutch set-ups or if your stock hydraulics are giving you problems with the stock clutch. Everyone is so quick to jump on the drill mod train, but I didn't & mine still runs fine. And yes it is daily driven at least 300 miles per week.
I ordered the LS7 clutch/LS2 flywheel package with new slave & pilot bearing. Thats it along with some new clutch & tranny fluid. Also bled it with the mityvac. It worked great & only took about 20 minutes.
09-21-2007, 02:02 PM
#7
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok heres my situation-
its a 00 t/a 6spd.
sometimes when i drive the clutch pedal sticks.
i went ot the track and when ide launch at like 2500 thats it it would slip a lil catch ide hit the clutch to band second and the pedal would stay down making it impossible to switch gears. after 4 runs of that i drove it home. i got stuck in an intersection by school wouldnt go in gear and pedal stuck again pumped for liek 5 mins and finnaly got back up. got it on the lift and leaking brake fluid between engine and trans so the slave is bad. i ordered a new master cylinder, new slave, ls7 ls2 flywheel and clutch and pilot bearing. my question is will the pedal still stick with a brand new gm 01* master and slave or will i still have to perform the drill mod?
its a 00 t/a 6spd.
sometimes when i drive the clutch pedal sticks.
i went ot the track and when ide launch at like 2500 thats it it would slip a lil catch ide hit the clutch to band second and the pedal would stay down making it impossible to switch gears. after 4 runs of that i drove it home. i got stuck in an intersection by school wouldnt go in gear and pedal stuck again pumped for liek 5 mins and finnaly got back up. got it on the lift and leaking brake fluid between engine and trans so the slave is bad. i ordered a new master cylinder, new slave, ls7 ls2 flywheel and clutch and pilot bearing. my question is will the pedal still stick with a brand new gm 01* master and slave or will i still have to perform the drill mod?
Trending Topics
09-21-2007, 02:32 PM
#8
The drill mod only removes the restriction that slows down the fluid flow. That will all work fine without performing the drill mod. The mod was intended by GM to prevent a hard torque hit when slamming gears. Many people remove that restriction to speed up the fluid flow and make the shifts quicker and more firm.
As I said somewhere on here today, I used to notice at WOT when I would change gears I could feel the car pulling harder as the clutch fully engaged. Kind of like a delay. That was the restriction finally letting the clutch fluid move. It does not do that anymore. I did the drill mod and there is no delay to the next gear.
I DD my car every day in the warmer months. No problems at all with my set-up. Even with the Turbo's now.
As I said somewhere on here today, I used to notice at WOT when I would change gears I could feel the car pulling harder as the clutch fully engaged. Kind of like a delay. That was the restriction finally letting the clutch fluid move. It does not do that anymore. I did the drill mod and there is no delay to the next gear.
I DD my car every day in the warmer months. No problems at all with my set-up. Even with the Turbo's now.
