View Poll Results: Which Clutch would be better
Spec Stage 3+
47
38.52%
Textralia
75
61.48%
Voters: 122. You may not vote on this poll
Spec 3+ or Textraila
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
I had a Tex oz700 z grip in the car when I bought it. It had around 1.5 years and 6k on it of normal street driving, dyno, etc. Clutch felt good until one day I went to the track and had a nice dead hook on drag radials. After that I was getting vibration that I thought was torque tube bushings. When I pulled drivetrain the clutch fingers were not sitting evenly and the pressure plate had shifted on the flywheel and egged out the dowl pin holes. Kind of like the plate bent a small amount.
Flywheel looks good, disk looks good and the bolts were tight. It just seems like the pressure plate had failed. I still haven't contacted Textraila about it as I am the second owner and they probably wouldn't do anything about it any way. Still sucks though as it was a low miles unit(although a 1+ years old) and it's first trip to the track with only a few passes made. Had I driven the car really hard after this I'm sure the pressure plate would have come apart
I remember thinking to myself when I bought the car that I won't need a clutch for a long time, but not so
Flywheel looks good, disk looks good and the bolts were tight. It just seems like the pressure plate had failed. I still haven't contacted Textraila about it as I am the second owner and they probably wouldn't do anything about it any way. Still sucks though as it was a low miles unit(although a 1+ years old) and it's first trip to the track with only a few passes made. Had I driven the car really hard after this I'm sure the pressure plate would have come apart
I remember thinking to myself when I bought the car that I won't need a clutch for a long time, but not so
Last edited by slowride; Nov 11, 2007 at 10:07 AM.
Have tex twin .It was not fun to drive when new but at a few thousand miles now its not too bad. Stll not the best in really heavy traffic but it has very nice liveable pedal pressure. It seems to grab good but only at around 420 engine hp or so now. My twin turbo kit is not installed. Tex also sent me some experimental I think twin street discs but have not put them in yet either. I have just read post from APS that said they went thru a couple of tex twins so now a bit leary if might have to go up to a triple tex for my power goals. I am looking for big power though more than most .850rwhp on turbos alone and 1000rwhp with some spray.If was staying under 700 or so engine hp likely would have just got the tex single. My twin does make a rattling noise when you push in the clutch. Loud when cold but quieter when warmed up but you can still here it sometimes if the radio is down or heater fan off. It doesn't make any noises in neutral when the clutch is not pushed in. This is floater rattle common on most twin discs.
I am currently running a Spec 3+. I love it. It is a bit grippy but holds like no other. I can do back to back street runs and pedal feel is the same as first. I also have a buddy running the same in his cobra and he puts it through the passes everyday. Great clutch.
Last edited by gtslow7; Nov 22, 2007 at 07:34 PM.
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I wonder how many people vote for Tex that A) don't have one; B) Have never driven a car with one; C) Are just regergitating the current trend on this message board.
Not saying you shouldn't go with the higher dollar clutch. I'm sure its great. But, the SPEC 3+ is the most common aftermarket clutch in our cars by great and wide margin. It's a great clutch. Mine never chattered from day one and still holds my bolt-ons Z28 like the day I bought it after 12,000 miles, a number of street races, and a couple times at the track. Feels just like the stocker, only i like its engagment more.
I'm sure you'll be happy with either, but I know the SPEC 3+ was expensive enough for poor ol me!
Not saying you shouldn't go with the higher dollar clutch. I'm sure its great. But, the SPEC 3+ is the most common aftermarket clutch in our cars by great and wide margin. It's a great clutch. Mine never chattered from day one and still holds my bolt-ons Z28 like the day I bought it after 12,000 miles, a number of street races, and a couple times at the track. Feels just like the stocker, only i like its engagment more.
I'm sure you'll be happy with either, but I know the SPEC 3+ was expensive enough for poor ol me!
Now if you wanna compare price.
Tex Oz700 z-grip, has pressure plate, clutch, and flywheel (billet steel) even with new GM bolts shipped from Byunspeed was $1,039.00
Spec 3+ pressure plate, flywheel, clutch is $800.00 w/ billet steel FW AND OVER $900.00 with aluminum FW. The is quoted through Thunderracing.com....
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...&vid=3&pcid=72
Not much a price diff when you think about it. I will GLADLY pay a extra 80-300 dollars for better driveability, street ability and most like hold MORE power and last the longest.
No chatter on mine, I get a lil squeel when letting the clutch out but I had the same on a regular Spec 3, and it seems to be normal when you have that sort of friction meterial.
I can't believe anyone has no rattle on their tex twin.Its pretty much has to happen when you push the clutch in. But some guys have loud cars so maybe don't hear it. The floater rattle might be a bit quieter if you put in their street discs in the twin which so far they don't seem to offer normally. The standard are the metallic ceramic discs.Some twin companies are using a strap system to quiet down floater rattle in neutral.
I am hoping my twin does ok this coming season. I don't track the car but might have power north of 700rwhp some of the time the car is driven. I would consider a triple upgrade and am hearing good things about the twin specs.Course for under 700rwhp then tex single seems to be a good choice.
I am hoping my twin does ok this coming season. I don't track the car but might have power north of 700rwhp some of the time the car is driven. I would consider a triple upgrade and am hearing good things about the twin specs.Course for under 700rwhp then tex single seems to be a good choice.
I wonder how many people vote for Tex that A) don't have one; B) Have never driven a car with one; C) Are just regergitating the current trend on this message board.
Not saying you shouldn't go with the higher dollar clutch. I'm sure its great. But, the SPEC 3+ is the most common aftermarket clutch in our cars by great and wide margin. It's a great clutch. Mine never chattered from day one and still holds my bolt-ons Z28 like the day I bought it after 12,000 miles, a number of street races, and a couple times at the track. Feels just like the stocker, only i like its engagment more.
Not saying you shouldn't go with the higher dollar clutch. I'm sure its great. But, the SPEC 3+ is the most common aftermarket clutch in our cars by great and wide margin. It's a great clutch. Mine never chattered from day one and still holds my bolt-ons Z28 like the day I bought it after 12,000 miles, a number of street races, and a couple times at the track. Feels just like the stocker, only i like its engagment more.
The one I drove had about 200 miles on it and did not chatter one bit. And it actually felt as close to a stock clutch feel as any aftermarket clutch I've ever driven, although it was still quite a bit more firm.
TECH Resident
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 797
Likes: 0
From: Long Island, NY
And I wonder how many people who drive a Spec 3+ and say it feels "like a stocker" have actually driven a stocker recently. I myself like the feel of a firm clutch pedal that requires extra effort to disengage, and I'm not saying one feel is better than the other because that's personal preference, but you're out of your mind if you think a 3+ feels anything like a stock Fbody clutch.
I have one in my car.
spec 3+ PEDAL PRESSURE is near stock after 500-1k miles break in. Pressure goes down ALOT from fresh to break in. When it was fresh it was stiff as hell but after couple of hundred miles you felt it get much softer to almost near stock pressure level, significant difference.
Now the grabbiness and on off feeling is not near the same as stock. This is a race clutch and its definetly on and off type clutch. You need to blip throttle and release quick.
do you have a spec 3+ in your car?
I have one in my car.
spec 3+ PEDAL PRESSURE is near stock after 500-1k miles break in. Pressure goes down ALOT from fresh to break in. When it was fresh it was stiff as hell but after couple of hundred miles you felt it get much softer to almost near stock pressure level, significant difference.
Now the grabbiness and on off feeling is not near the same as stock. This is a race clutch and its definetly on and off type clutch. You need to blip throttle and release quick.
I have one in my car.
spec 3+ PEDAL PRESSURE is near stock after 500-1k miles break in. Pressure goes down ALOT from fresh to break in. When it was fresh it was stiff as hell but after couple of hundred miles you felt it get much softer to almost near stock pressure level, significant difference.
Now the grabbiness and on off feeling is not near the same as stock. This is a race clutch and its definetly on and off type clutch. You need to blip throttle and release quick.
I say again, perhaps you haven't driven an LS1 Fbody recently with a stock clutch in it, because after driving almost any of the Spec clutches I've driven, and there have been many from the Stage 2 to the 3+, the stock clutch is so weak comparatively that it almost feels broken. And I've gone from Spec to stock and back multiple times throughout the course of one day.
That said, I PREFER the feel of the Spec clutches over that of the stock clutch, so it's not like I'm saying all of this to bash Spec or anything; it's just a fact of my personal experiences, which span quite a few clutches and cars.
