





Spec 3+ or Textraila
I am putting down about 420hp now through a SS4000 converter...
Hit up Byunspeed sponsor here on the site can set up up with the Textralia
Hit up Byunspeed sponsor here on the site can set up up with the Textralia
exactly what i would say
I've run Spec 3's for a while
I put in the Text and love it....great pedal feel...use stock master and slave
Byunspeed all the way!!
Also get yourself a speed bleeder from Carl @ LPP aka black2002ws6 .
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...remote+bleeder
William
Not saying you shouldn't go with the higher dollar clutch. I'm sure its great. But, the SPEC 3+ is the most common aftermarket clutch in our cars by great and wide margin. It's a great clutch. Mine never chattered from day one and still holds my bolt-ons Z28 like the day I bought it after 12,000 miles, a number of street races, and a couple times at the track. Feels just like the stocker, only i like its engagment more.
I'm sure you'll be happy with either, but I know the SPEC 3+ was expensive enough for poor ol me!
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A good rule of thumb would be to have a starting ratio of at least 13.5 to one. (1rst gear times rear gear ratio) 4.56 gears should be considered a minimum. Something has to slip for the first 30 ft or so to get the car out clean and allow your engine to work. It should not be your clutch. If you guys are slipping the clutch off the line this will destroy any clutch. Instead, what should slip is the tires. Most people racing with manual transmissions want to shock the tires loose and spin about one revolution off the line. This one revolution may be streached out over 15 feet. MT ET Streets or Drags with a stiff sidewall work best. Avoid Drag radials as they tend to wheel hop with a clutch car. The car can not be allowed to bog off the line. If you bog the car, you will break parts.
The bottom line is, your combination must allow you to dump the clutch at high revs, and get the car out without pulling the rpm down more than 500 rpm below peak torque. If you cant do this without slipping the pedal, and you have gone to the max rear gear your motor can turn through the lights, then increase launch rpm and flywheel mass, in that order.
I hope this helps.
Henry
Next, look at customer service. In the event you do have problems, Textralia will bend over backwards to make the situation right for you the customer. Put simply, they feel their name is worth more than a clutch, and have proven it time and again. Do a search for Spec's customer service an I feel you will get a completely different picture. They will have you send the clutch in and then will try a way to blame you the customer, be it you didn't install the clutch correctly (don't know how so many people can screw up a simple procedure), didn't break it in correctly (no break in with Textralia), or you slipped their "racing" clutch too much.
I understand a clutch is a wear item that I will eventually have to replace again. When the time comes, I will only look at Textralia...though I may go twin disk next time.
Galen
I made the mistake by not getting a Textralia the first time (wish I had).
Best performance clutch I've ever had in any vehicle.
Like said earlier that you need a little slip somewhere, better the tires then the clutch and these tires did not give at no problem raceway. THat track hooks .
I am putting my iron flywheel back in and am going to try to sand the glaze off the disk and lightly sand the pressure plate side to break it in again with the iron flywheel. If it starts to slip again then I may try the tex or just go th350. Not looking forward to the later but dont want to keep spending 500 + on clutches every year.







