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I found a guy that has a spec 3 for sale. It has 2 weeks of drive time on it while breaking in a 408 and it comes with the clutch, pressure plate, and alingment tool for $200. I think its a great deal, anyone else think i should buy it??
My clutch is toast right now clunking and the whole nine yards. And i dont have much money so i need something cheap fast.
unless you want to be spending more money in about 5k miles. do not buy the spec stage 3. i went thru 4 of them before i switched. all had the same problems with the center springs popping out.
LS6 clutch cant be that expensive
or even a plain ol' stocker if u need to get by
yeah they suck, imo..... try to find someone doing a clutch swap because they want more power and get a used stocker to hold you over.. its gonna last longer than a spec
T56...there are tons of folks that swear by our stage 3 and that have miles and miles of use on them. I am not pointing fingers here, but it is important to remember that flatness of surfaces (flywheel specifically), break-in, driving style and power level are all relative to the life of a clutch (ours or anyone elses). Keep in mind that buying a used clutch means that you are getting a used clutch. You have no real way of knowing how it was treated over the miles it has seen thus far. If you can send me some pics of the pressure plate and disc surfaces I will be happy to let you know if anything looks strange or out of whack. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!!
I have the spec 3+is bad *** compared to the spec 3 .The spec 3+ is a ceramic disc and the spec 3 is a paddle clutch , Ive had the 3+ for 9 months now with no slippage at all, behind my LS2 418cid. with 250 shot of nitrous.
This is not the news i like to hear. I think im going to check the clutch out and i will probably end up getting it. It will be better than running my stocker down the track slipin at 2.0 60ft's, im kind of tired of that.
T56...there are tons of folks that swear by our stage 3 and that have miles and miles of use on them. I am not pointing fingers here, but it is important to remember that flatness of surfaces (flywheel specifically), break-in, driving style and power level are all relative to the life of a clutch (ours or anyone elses). Keep in mind that buying a used clutch means that you are getting a used clutch. You have no real way of knowing how it was treated over the miles it has seen thus far. If you can send me some pics of the pressure plate and disc surfaces I will be happy to let you know if anything looks strange or out of whack. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!!
I installed a SPEC 3+ clutch and SPEC billet steel flywheel. I followed the break-in procedure, and had all kinds of problems. The clutch and flywheel had about 500 miles on them, when I decided to tear down my entire car, and rebuild it pretty much from the ground up. When I removed the clutch, pressure plate, & flywheel, I was surprised at what I saw. The clutch pads were worn unevenly in both the horizontal, and vertical axis. vertically, all the pads were burned & glazed about halfway down; horizontally, all the pads were thicker on one edge, and thinner on the other. The flywheel side was worn much worse. Both the flywheel & pressure plate had been badly worn circumference-wise. You could see AND feel the wear.
I've been twisting wrenches for 30 years. My 1st clutch install was in 1975, when I replaced the clutch, pressure plate, & flywheel on my '69 Chevelle SS 396/375. By the way, after burning up several clutches with that monster, the ONLY clutch that would stand up to it, was a Hays. I TRIED to burn that puppy up, and couldn't do it. Anyway, my point is that I know how to properly align & install a clutch. Compared to the old, threaded rod adjuster clutches, these new hydraulic units are a joy to install.
My neighbor bought the flywheel & pressure plate, and had them resurfaced. I still have the disk, and, if you'd like, I'd be happy to send you some pics. SPEC enjoys a good reputation, so don't read anything into this that I'm not meaning to say. Maybe I just got a bad unit....it happens. You can turn out 5,000 perfectly good units, but it's that one bad one that's going to get all the press. Remember what Deming said:
* 100% inspection is only 80% effective
* you cannot inspect quality into a product
* in order to manufacture to specification, you MUST run your process within its control limits
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