can the drill mod mess anything up?
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can the drill mod mess anything up?
can the drill mod mess anything up? I had a friend that worked at GM tell me it can mess with the pressure and actually my master doesn't work after doing it. Wondering if my master failing right after the drill mod was just a coincidence or can the mod actually mess things up.
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If someone went crazy with the drill size and didn't flush the system clean etc. etc....
I drilled mine to 7/32 rather than the 1/8 inch. An eight inch takes away some of the steel crimp that fastens the hose to the fitting; a little too deep and you will be drilling small bits of rubber and anything else that reinforces it. If the particles are left to circulate then I suppose they would scar and tear the seal surfaces in the master and slave cylinders. My fluid was black as ink and I wondered how the master cylinder was doing. To me, the plunger seal was breaking down but I was anxious to get the car back on the road. Flushed clean and it is working fine to this day. I wonder if your friend understands what you are talking about because I can't see how removing the restriction of a mere 32nd of an inch can have such an impact one way or the other.
I drilled mine to 7/32 rather than the 1/8 inch. An eight inch takes away some of the steel crimp that fastens the hose to the fitting; a little too deep and you will be drilling small bits of rubber and anything else that reinforces it. If the particles are left to circulate then I suppose they would scar and tear the seal surfaces in the master and slave cylinders. My fluid was black as ink and I wondered how the master cylinder was doing. To me, the plunger seal was breaking down but I was anxious to get the car back on the road. Flushed clean and it is working fine to this day. I wonder if your friend understands what you are talking about because I can't see how removing the restriction of a mere 32nd of an inch can have such an impact one way or the other.
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Well my car is at a sponsor (fx ceramic coating) cuz i broke the slaves bleeder off while trying to bleed it. Really dont know why it was so easy to break but it did. and I had to replace that so i figured i would just go with the ls7/ls2 clutch combo and an upgraded slave. But after he put it all bakc together he said there was still no clutch pressure and that he heard coming from under the dash. So now I'm going to buy the upgraded master but I was wondering if I should do the drill mod on this one.
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I would do it again if the car is to be driven in a sporting manner. The very tiny restrictor in the hydraulic line is for buffering the flow of fluid. The cool slow movement of a stereo's mechanical parts keeps things from happening with a jolt. So is the design of the slave cylinder restrictor. With a little slower clutch movement the car is less easily stalled. When shifting with rapid moves, the clutch is lagging just a little in order to keep the driveline shock down. The unfortunate side effect is the operator will try to force a gear change before the clutch has fully disengaged. The gear may come out but there is still clutch contact keeping it from going back in. The most infamous result is a missed 2nd to 3rd engagement. Cold temperatures really exacerbate this situation. The dill mod helps to lessen this.