Gravity Bled Clutch now there isn't any pressure!!
01-18-2003, 05:35 PM
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Gravity Bled Clutch now there isn't any pressure!! I just did the gravity bleed method of bleeding my clutch hydraulics, and now, even after pumping the pedal 40 times, there isn't ANY pressure. What could be going on?
01-18-2003, 06:03 PM
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Re: Gravity Bled Clutch now there isn't any pressure!! </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by bomax182:
<strong> I just did the gravity bleed method of bleeding my clutch hydraulics, and now, even after pumping the pedal 40 times, there isn't ANY pressure. What could be going on? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Did you let the fluid get below the bottom of the resevior? Did you remove the rubber moisture lock(looks like a condem in the resevior)? How did you do your gravity bleed?
Mike
<strong> I just did the gravity bleed method of bleeding my clutch hydraulics, and now, even after pumping the pedal 40 times, there isn't ANY pressure. What could be going on? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Did you let the fluid get below the bottom of the resevior? Did you remove the rubber moisture lock(looks like a condem in the resevior)? How did you do your gravity bleed?
Mike
01-18-2003, 06:07 PM
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Re: Gravity Bled Clutch now there isn't any pressure!! 1. No
2. Yes
3. Jacked up car. Cracked bleed valve. Opened reservoir. Refiller reservoir as needed (3-4 times). Closed bleed valve. Closed reservoir. Pumped pedal 40 times.
2. Yes
3. Jacked up car. Cracked bleed valve. Opened reservoir. Refiller reservoir as needed (3-4 times). Closed bleed valve. Closed reservoir. Pumped pedal 40 times.
01-18-2003, 10:13 PM
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Re: Gravity Bled Clutch now there isn't any pressure!! It's possible that when you opened the bleed
valve, it let air bubble up into the system.
For this not to happen, you need to have flow
velocity of fluid greater than the bubbles
speed of rise in that fluid.
It would be better to get a vacuum pump
(Mighty Mite or the Sears one) and bleed
using a siphon jar - setup so that any fluid
coming in enters at the bottom, any reversion
will just pull fluid and not air. Suction
from the top. I'm sure you can buy this kind
of thing, but I made my own out of a glass
jar w/ screw-on lid, some vac hose (sized for
brake bleed screws) and a little RTV.
The Sears hand vacuum pumps are like $39 (or
were, 5 years ago).
You'll still have to add fluid, but it'll go
way faster and you control the rate by the
vacuum you pull. Just keep sweeping until
no more dirt and no more bubbles; don't be
afraid to waste brake fluid, flush it all
out is the only way to get back. Get enough
vac hose from the jat to the pump, and you
can get in filling position and work.
A bigger jar won't need dumped as often.
Might get one that's bigger than the brake
fluid bottle.
valve, it let air bubble up into the system.
For this not to happen, you need to have flow
velocity of fluid greater than the bubbles
speed of rise in that fluid.
It would be better to get a vacuum pump
(Mighty Mite or the Sears one) and bleed
using a siphon jar - setup so that any fluid
coming in enters at the bottom, any reversion
will just pull fluid and not air. Suction
from the top. I'm sure you can buy this kind
of thing, but I made my own out of a glass
jar w/ screw-on lid, some vac hose (sized for
brake bleed screws) and a little RTV.
The Sears hand vacuum pumps are like $39 (or
were, 5 years ago).
You'll still have to add fluid, but it'll go
way faster and you control the rate by the
vacuum you pull. Just keep sweeping until
no more dirt and no more bubbles; don't be
afraid to waste brake fluid, flush it all
out is the only way to get back. Get enough
vac hose from the jat to the pump, and you
can get in filling position and work.
A bigger jar won't need dumped as often.
Might get one that's bigger than the brake
fluid bottle.
