TCW

iTrader: (3)

Ok I bought a '99 Trans am and the transmission is grinding in all gears. It was worst but I swapped out the fluid (cherry fresh) to Pensoil Syncromesh. Now it still grinds, just not as bad. I can drive without it grinding by pushing it in to gear gently, it then pauses and after a 1/2 sec slides in fine. If I push harder itll give me a nice lil grind. Seems like the syncro is trying to do its job but just slow.

Any ideas, need a rebuild? Could all syncros be bad?

Thanks

rotanhd

iTrader: (1)

Did you check the resevior under the hood in the top right corner. A friend of mine was having a griding issue and we checked it and it was bone dry. I think it is the fluid to build up pressure for the clutch but I am not 100%. Still a newbie. Worth a shot! Good luck

TCW

iTrader: (3)

Yea both at the back right were full.

TCW

iTrader: (3)

If sixspeed inc happens to roll across this thread and you think I need a rebuilt, lemme know what all is sugessted(says to hold only 400whp) and what condition you think the gears are in if this could have been going on for a few months

Thanks

Jonathan@Tick

iTrader: (5)

How does the clutch release? Up top or close to the floor?

Unless the clutch isnt' releasing properly, it sounds like you need a new set of blocker rings. Its hard to say what the gears will look like until everything is torn apart.

A stock t56 will handle 400rwhp, but depending on your driving style you should probably upgrade a few shifting components while you're in there. Check our level two package here: http://www.tick-performance.com/transmission/ That should take care of your problems with the addition of a 5-6 slider if it has also been grinding those gears also.

TCW

iTrader: (3)

Clutch sarts to engage about 2 inches off the floor, I just put it in gear and slowly let out until rpms dropped. Also it shifts smooth as butter when cold, noticed this when moving it around so I could wash it in my driveway today.

thosewhohatedmecreat

I blew a blocker ring to hell once

firechicken_98

iTrader: (8)

I would say try re-bleeding the clutch. There could be some air in the hydrolics. this would also cause this problem. It's worth a shot.

ls1 joe

iTrader: (37)

I agree there might be air in the hydraulics but sounds like the clutch is doing it's job. I think a stage 2A rebuild with my special 25% off will do the job. Remember all of our packages have a 1 year warranty that covers track abuse. They also hold 700rwhp and 700rwtq. To take advantage of that special just give me a call. If you have any questions just call me. I think the blocker rings are shot.

Amber
Six Speeds Inc.

TCW

iTrader: (3)

Ill try bleeding the clutch and see what happens, any other ideas? If this dosent do the trick it looks like a rebuild is in sight.

ls1 joe

iTrader: (37)

I don't think it is really going to help but worth a try since it is free. Sounds more like the blocker rings are starting to go.

Amber

ls1 joe

iTrader: (37)

If it shifts fine when cold check to make sure your slave/master line is not against the headers causing the fluid to boil. Had that happen to a few customers once.

Amber

TCW

iTrader: (3)

Thanks, will check that tomorrow. So many things, small or big, that could cause a problem. Will update tomorrow, also changing heaadlight gears so no more grinding from them either.

Thanks!

TCW

iTrader: (3)

Well the clutch line has the factory bracket holding it away from the cats, also I dont think imma try and bleed it because with 125k miles I doubt its just air in the system and the clutch seems consistent and dosen't feel like there is air in the system.. o well I had hopes lol. Also realized how much of a PITA it is to bleed it, wow. For later reference can't you just loosen the bleeder screw and put a line on it and in a bottle with brake fluid and proceed to pump? Loosening and retighting that thing would be a serious pain.

Atleast its still driveable and dosent grind if I baby it.

Thanks

firechicken_98

iTrader: (8)

Yeah there is a remote bleeder mod that you can do for this. Look in the stickies and it's there. I just cut a hole in the floor pan (another option to consider) to get access to the bleeder screw. Makes things sooooo much easier, plus you can do the whole job by yourself.

My advice before doing anything else is to get the car diagnosed by a competent shop to find out the problem is before you go dropping the coin on a new trans, clutch, slave, and/or master.

TCW

iTrader: (3)

What can a shop do that I can't(as far as seeing why it grinding) with the transmission in the car? It would just end up costing me more money.