DIY T-56 Rebuid Questions, etc inside?
#1
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I'm too hesitant to let someone rebuild my T-56 so I'd like to do it myself. I'd like input from those that have done it. Here are the tools I'll need:
Tremec T56 Manual (Got it)
Shop Press, 15 Ton
Press Plate
Bearing Remover (for Press, Part #, Price, Source)
Really long gear puller (where do I get one of this nature? Part #, Price, Source)
Feeler Gauge
Dial Caliper (Got it)
Countershaft Endplay Tool (Need to find out where to get this, Part #, Price, Source)
Press Tool to Re-install Tapered Bearings on the shafts (where to get this? Part #, Price, Source)
Snap Ring Pliers (Got those)
Small Blade Screwdriver (Got one)
I have read that you can do this without a press. Those that have done it w/out a press say they put the items that wouldn't slide on in the oven at 400*F for a few minutes and they slid on. However, some of the material in the syncros is made of plastic and I'd rather not risk melting any of those components or causing premature failure.
Also, I'd appreciate it if those that have done it can post up any and all info they can to get this done correctly. For instance, is it always necessary to shim the counter and mainshaft anytime you tear the tranny down or only if you remove them from their mounting locations? I'm gonna replace the 3/4 shift fork, 3/4 syncro assembly, and check EVERYTHING else for wear, etc.
Tremec T56 Manual (Got it)
Shop Press, 15 Ton
Press Plate
Bearing Remover (for Press, Part #, Price, Source)
Really long gear puller (where do I get one of this nature? Part #, Price, Source)
Feeler Gauge
Dial Caliper (Got it)
Countershaft Endplay Tool (Need to find out where to get this, Part #, Price, Source)
Press Tool to Re-install Tapered Bearings on the shafts (where to get this? Part #, Price, Source)
Snap Ring Pliers (Got those)
Small Blade Screwdriver (Got one)
I have read that you can do this without a press. Those that have done it w/out a press say they put the items that wouldn't slide on in the oven at 400*F for a few minutes and they slid on. However, some of the material in the syncros is made of plastic and I'd rather not risk melting any of those components or causing premature failure.
Also, I'd appreciate it if those that have done it can post up any and all info they can to get this done correctly. For instance, is it always necessary to shim the counter and mainshaft anytime you tear the tranny down or only if you remove them from their mounting locations? I'm gonna replace the 3/4 shift fork, 3/4 syncro assembly, and check EVERYTHING else for wear, etc.
#2
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Countershaft endplay tool
I have looked at the manual and thats a custom piece. i think a reputable machine shop should be able to make it for you.
Edit: I have done a lot of machining before and that piece should be cake.
I have looked at the manual and thats a custom piece. i think a reputable machine shop should be able to make it for you.
Edit: I have done a lot of machining before and that piece should be cake.
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I did not actually rebuild it I only changed blocking rings, shifting fork (3-4 to an iron unit) and repaired the platic shifing surfaces on #1 shifting fork, but I can tell you that the only problem I had was getting the driven gear off. Like you said this requires a puller with extra long jaws. Kent Moore is the one who supplies GM with theirs but I was told by Valve God that there was a 3 month back order and it was 90.00 at the time, so I made my own. Instead of having to try and describe what it is I will email you some pics if you want me to and describe how I used it and what I used to reinstall the driven gear. You can duplicate my puller for less than 3.00 (if you have an old two jaw puller just laying around,if not then add 5.00 for what you will have to find at a flea market).
#4
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I don't the mods/admins will have a problem with you posting up the info.
Its not competing with any vendors.
Its not competing with any vendors.
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Here's a nice helpful page. It has a homebrew tool on it as well.
http://para.noid.org/~lj/T56/T56.htm
I have tried a number of different snap ring pliers, and the Snap On set rules for the mainshaft snap rings. Not sure what part number it is, but it looks like the SRP2 at http://www.snapon.com - the ones at Harbor Freight and Sears just don't cut it very well.
-Andrew
http://para.noid.org/~lj/T56/T56.htm
I have tried a number of different snap ring pliers, and the Snap On set rules for the mainshaft snap rings. Not sure what part number it is, but it looks like the SRP2 at http://www.snapon.com - the ones at Harbor Freight and Sears just don't cut it very well.
-Andrew
#6
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cannibal i've heard a lot about your car from matt, i'm just in georgetown. i'll have to check that thing out when it's all done. about the tools, send an email to this guy (mrpreludesh@aol.com) and tell him you're a member of preludeonline.com even though i'm sure you're not ( i don't know how you feel about claiming to be a member of a prelude board, but you will get a discount) and he'll give you a discount on any type of tool you need. he's in the tool and machine distributing business and he seems to have really reasonable prices.
take it easy
andrew
take it easy
andrew