Manual Transmission T56 | T5 | MN12 | Clutches | Hydraulics | Shifters

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Old Mar 9, 2008 | 03:45 AM
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From: Tomball (H-Town), TX
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God I hate this T56...... never driven a manual car that was so ******* stubborn....... between not wanting to go into any gear cold until its warmed up for a few miles.. to not being able to shift over 5k (most of the time) and being notchy as hell.. and impossible to down shift to 2nd unless you go 1st > 2nd real quick

tranny is a rebuilt trem and i just changed the fluid to generic dex III and put some DOT3 clutch fluid in it



just had to rant again on this POS atleast it doesnt ever grind or pop out of gear
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Old Mar 9, 2008 | 03:53 AM
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What did you have it rebuilt with? Just stock?
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Old Mar 9, 2008 | 03:11 PM
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From: Tomball (H-Town), TX
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previous owner brought it in warranty saying it popped out of gear under accel they gave him a new unit reused slave/master, and clutch
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Old Mar 9, 2008 | 10:25 PM
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Most of the issues people are having start with the clutch design . It really sucks .....
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 02:18 AM
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From: Tomball (H-Town), TX
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this stock **** sucks all around, some days the car is happy it just goes into gears driving just fine.. then most days its notchy, i wake up to no gears at all having to pump pump pump while waiting for it to warm up to go into first or reverse or just start the car in gear drive it and make sure i dont stop at N then after operating temp is reached its mid level shifting decent not really to complain able

its a pattern that is getting old.. then when it doesn't want to behave when im trying to WOT shift
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 09:35 AM
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From: Adkins - Tx
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Have you replaced the upper and lower cylinders ?
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 10:11 AM
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Pumping the pedal to get pressure just screams hydraulics. newer 01-02 piece for the not getting in gear issue, drill mod for the WOT shifting, probably new clutch if the hydraulics were going and you still drove it.

syncros at the least for the popping of gears (once again caused by the hydraulics not disengaging the clutch leading to the syncros doing more of the work to get it in gear)

Hard to get in gear, clutch not disengaging due to hydraulics...

see a pattern here?

Sounds like you are almost beyond saving the thing with a simple bleed. The insistence to do WOT shifting when there are other symptoms already warning against this makes you wonder why the transmission hasn't decided to grenade on you yet.
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 04:20 PM
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From: Tomball (H-Town), TX
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Originally Posted by SladeX
Pumping the pedal to get pressure just screams hydraulics. newer 01-02 piece for the not getting in gear issue, drill mod for the WOT shifting, probably new clutch if the hydraulics were going and you still drove it.

syncros at the least for the popping of gears (once again caused by the hydraulics not disengaging the clutch leading to the syncros doing more of the work to get it in gear)

Hard to get in gear, clutch not disengaging due to hydraulics...

see a pattern here?

Sounds like you are almost beyond saving the thing with a simple bleed. The insistence to do WOT shifting when there are other symptoms already warning against this makes you wonder why the transmission hasn't decided to grenade on you yet.
well most of my WOT shifting has been at 5k where its fine but when the few times (around 7) i have gone over.. and thats because it was going into gaer at the time the.. I have a new master/slave/pilot and a LS7 clutch coming

car isn't popping out of gears and doesn't grind at all I dont know if the pumping really works if I kind of try a few times not using to much force it usually does it aswell.. today it was all good went into reverse like nothing about 30 minutes ago after a 30-45 mile drive but this morning no joy... I don't understand if its the transmission fluid in it which is doing that because hydraulic problems should be all the time
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 04:25 PM
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The clutch hydraulics on these cars can be persnickety if everything isn't working as it should. It can cause massive shifting problems, especially at high RPMs.

How much time and effort are you willing to put into this? If you can do your own work, it might be worth replacing all of the hydraulics, and putting in a bleeder extension to make life easier.

Otherwise, your transmission is gonna need some serious help if you don't get this fixed soon.
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 04:27 PM
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From: Tomball (H-Town), TX
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Originally Posted by MeentSS02
The clutch hydraulics on these cars can be persnickety if everything isn't working as it should. It can cause massive shifting problems, especially at high RPMs.

How much time and effort are you willing to put into this? If you can do your own work, it might be worth replacing all of the hydraulics, and putting in a bleeder extension to make life easier.

Otherwise, your transmission is gonna need some serious help if you don't get this fixed soon.
well spring break full bolt-ons are going on along with the new ram master/raybestos slave.. brass pilot bearing and a new clutch

I'v already bled the clutch and changed transmission fluid me and my father got a lift so doing the work isn't a issue.. whats this bleeder extension I was going to drill a hole?
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 04:37 PM
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Do a search for "slave bleeder extension"...there is no need to drill a hole in your car. It replaces the bleeder screw on the slave with a line that you can run up into your engine bay, and lets you bleed the hydraulics from there.

If you are clever, you can use a Motive Power bleeder to bleed the system as well

It sounds like you have the equipment...now you need to have the discipline to not try forcing the trans into gear if it doesn't want to go at high RPMs. You may have done some damage already, and getting a quality rebuild is not a cheap proposition.
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 04:44 PM
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From: Tomball (H-Town), TX
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Originally Posted by MeentSS02
Do a search for "slave bleeder extension"...there is no need to drill a hole in your car. It replaces the bleeder screw on the slave with a line that you can run up into your engine bay, and lets you bleed the hydraulics from there.

If you are clever, you can use a Motive Power bleeder to bleed the system as well

It sounds like you have the equipment...now you need to have the discipline to not try forcing the trans into gear if it doesn't want to go at high RPMs. You may have done some damage already, and getting a quality rebuild is not a cheap proposition.
oh iv never forced it into gear when it doesn't want to shift at high rpm's either it does or it doesnt never forced it against grinding or anything I know thats bad but i'v definitely felt my teeth on my gears no funny noises and stuff.. im just debating if I should do a PRO5 at the same time im on stock shifter with short stick and i mean stock stamped
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Gun5
oh iv never forced it into gear when it doesn't want to shift at high rpm's either it does or it doesnt never forced it against grinding or anything I know thats bad
That's better than me

I used to get pissed at mine and just hammer the **** out of it.

If you are doing the hydraulics, the slave bleeder extension is a must in my book. Once you get all of that stuff done, that'll at least eliminate that variable. Hopefully your transmission issues go away along with it...
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 04:48 PM
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From: Tomball (H-Town), TX
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Originally Posted by MeentSS02
That's better than me

I used to get pissed at mine and just hammer the **** out of it.

If you are doing the hydraulics, the slave bleeder extension is a must in my book. Once you get all of that stuff done, that'll at least eliminate that variable. Hopefully your transmission issues go away along with it...
trust me im praying I got the money to buy one of the kits for all the upgraded stuff but if I can put it off for a year or 2 maybe forever Id like to
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 05:33 PM
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Its funny how people refer back to old technology when things start to go bad . Suggesting that people should use a bronze pilot bushing instead of the roller bearing from the factory is one of those examples .
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 06:02 PM
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From: Tomball (H-Town), TX
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Originally Posted by thesource
Its funny how people refer back to old technology when things start to go bad . Suggesting that people should use a bronze pilot bushing instead of the roller bearing from the factory is one of those examples .
Well I'v done many clutch jobs and alot of times they give a bearing and a bushing.. I dunno I'v read on here alot of bearings not being bearings after awhile and 6 speeds inc even sells a bushing and I'd trust anyone there over my experience of manuals from school and at the shop due to the fact thats all they do..
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Gun5
Well I'v done many clutch jobs and alot of times they give a bearing and a bushing.. I dunno I'v read on here alot of bearings not being bearings after awhile and 6 speeds inc even sells a bushing and I'd trust anyone there over my experience of manuals from school and at the shop due to the fact thats all they do..
IMO, that's a bad idea. You have to be able to make educated decisions on your own, not based on what you hear on the internet.

I've heard pilot bearing horror stories on here as well, and I even rock one of their transmissions, but I can assure you that I'll be running a pilot bearing in my crank for a long, long time.
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by MeentSS02
IMO, that's a bad idea. You have to be able to make educated decisions on your own, not based on what you hear on the internet.

I've heard pilot bearing horror stories on here as well, and I even rock one of their transmissions, but I can assure you that I'll be running a pilot bearing in my crank for a long, long time.
Well if there is one thing on the internet I'v seen there is is no shortage of idiots...been on about 8-9 other sites over the few years on cars I have owned and thats all I have seen.. on the other hand I was taking it from a sponsor that s what they do for a business and they specialize in it.. I would think a properly installed roller would work fine

I wouldn't be at where I am now deciding a LS7 clutch if I wasn't doing my own thing I'd be buying a china made SPEC 3 like everyone
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 07:30 PM
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I'm on the hydraulics bandwagon I used to always use the traditional bleeding method with a buddy, and my m6 was notchy, and hard to shift at high rpms. Did a clutch install when none of my friends were around, so i picked up a vacuum bleeder, and bled it from the top. Night and day difference! I've also used it on my buddies cars after they've already been blead traditionally, and have been able to pull out an impressive amount of remaining air from the system. The tool is cheap, the bleed is easy, and it's a good place to start when diagnosing your issues.

Last edited by Karpellarpy; Mar 10, 2008 at 07:31 PM. Reason: grammar
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 07:13 PM
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got my slave today.. already got the master didnt get a pic of it though.. waiting for clutch

$69 for this slave.... with TO whats the little seal for? and the bleeder looks a little diff to

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