T56 Rebuild "how to" write up
09-22-2008, 04:52 PM
#30
TECH Regular
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Alabama - The 'Ham
Posts: 411
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Isn't there a tolerance or endplay somewhere that you're supposed to check? I don't remember the specifics and haven't done this myself, but I seem to recall another write-up mentioning it? Perhaps that's only if you replace the bearings?
Cool write-up. Subscribing.
Cool write-up. Subscribing.
09-23-2008, 09:05 AM
#31
On The Tree
Another trick I used when I did mine (No previous transmission Knowledge whatsoever) was I took an old shower curtain rod and slid every part I took off of the shafts on that to keep them in order and the just replaced the old parts with the rebuild parts while putting it back together. Also here is a link to the PDF of the rebuild manual. Looks like it is the same one as in post number 1. I printed mine out and put it in protective plastic sheets in a binder. It worked out well.
http://www.ttcautomotive.com/English...ice_Manual.pdf
http://www.ttcautomotive.com/English...ice_Manual.pdf
09-23-2008, 09:29 AM
#32
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 612
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What about 93 trannys Vs 94-97? is there different issues? Ive got a 93 and I want to upgrade to the Viper shaft. Ive been talking to sixspeed Inc about the rebuild kits and the Viper kit but all of a sudden there email doesnt work and I cant get a hold of them. having this stickied and another onethat focuses on a "performance" build and maybe extras we can do to get it to hold up to higher HP would be grreat. ill be putting down over 700hp with my 76mm build and I want it to hold up.
10-10-2008, 11:31 AM
#34
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: NW Houston
Posts: 335
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
.....what happens if i strip one of the T-40 torx screws that goes through the case?
any ideas?
it was mega-lock-tited and the inside of the head is now F*ed. and i haven't broken it loose yet
update: did some research and found out to heat it with a torch~ put a propane torch on it for about 3 minutes straight and immediately jumped on it with the T40 and was able to crack it loose with approx 30 Ft-lbs
any ideas?
it was mega-lock-tited and the inside of the head is now F*ed. and i haven't broken it loose yet
update: did some research and found out to heat it with a torch~ put a propane torch on it for about 3 minutes straight and immediately jumped on it with the T40 and was able to crack it loose with approx 30 Ft-lbs
Last edited by Ceissus; 10-10-2008 at 12:25 PM.
10-10-2008, 12:24 PM
#35
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Phoenix AZ
Posts: 1,034
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
carefully dremel sides off into a six point that you can get a socket on... One idea would to use some kind of ink on the socket or marker to know where to cut...
10-10-2008, 06:22 PM
#38
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (21)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Everywhere
Posts: 1,105
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
how long should the rebuild take to do for a one man show? I know it depends on experience, so let's just say someone who has rebuilt one or two of these already
10-10-2008, 11:40 PM
#39
TECH Resident
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Henderson, NC
Posts: 854
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Man I am literally going by his and that tremec book.
I have sucessfully gotten it all the way apart, pretty much leaving it parallal to the bench. My only last thing is one of the roll pins on the guide rail that holds the forks seems to be a different size than the others, either that or i hae messed up the punch pin I have been using.
once I get this last pin out ill have it fully disassembled.
The gears themselves all appear to pretty much have bevelled endings of the teeth. The y dont appar to be rounded off or chipped. Is that normal and ok? The magnet collectors didnt seem to have that much metal shavings on them.. I really expected more.
My problem was that the car wouldnt shift into 5th unless I was doing under 15 mph, *4.10 gears*
I had also missed several 2-3 shofts back in the day, and also my clutch pedal was sticking, and when I took off my slave cylinder it appears that I had broke off something on it
Pretty much redid the rear main seal, that A pillar seal thing behind the panel to the back of the block, and a new pilot bearing.. went with the ls7 clutch and flywheeel assembly.
New master and slave cylinders *have yet to bleed that setup...*
Started taking the tranny apart thursday afternoon when I realized I didnt have the clip pliers or the punch pins. I actually removed most of the rings with the crappy channel lock ring pliers. WOW o WOW they sucked. The locker ring pliers from craftsman are godly, too bad I found out about them after.
Ive numbered about 20-25 peices into bags that I took off in order, before I could finally jiggle and wiggle the main shaft and the guide shafts out of the main housing.
it took a craftsman t40 torx bit that came attached to the 3/8" drive socket. That baby got out those guide torx bolts quite easily, after I had broken 2 made in china, 2 kobolt, and 1 taskforce t40 bits
I still havent hard back from amber who i sent a pm too, about on of their rebuild kits. So I may go to that google search place and order...
Wow so how bad of a nightmare is it replacing peices of a cynchro, or do you just chuck the synchro and get a whole new one?
I am assuming the pads are the black things on the end of the forks... and he keys are those tiny lil square tidbits int he synchros...
Anyways, I need a nights rest.
Im curious, is there much risk/danger in the tranny oxidizing while working on it? I bagged most of the peices ive taken off of it and put them in plastic drawers. but a for the casing and the shafts etc they are laying on the bench but all still feel pretty slick from the old atf. Should I cover them, I laid a plstic painters cloth over them to help keep out dust etc...
But should I do a better job to keep out moisture etc?
Whew thanks
Great writeup and guide... life saver!!
I have sucessfully gotten it all the way apart, pretty much leaving it parallal to the bench. My only last thing is one of the roll pins on the guide rail that holds the forks seems to be a different size than the others, either that or i hae messed up the punch pin I have been using.
once I get this last pin out ill have it fully disassembled.
The gears themselves all appear to pretty much have bevelled endings of the teeth. The y dont appar to be rounded off or chipped. Is that normal and ok? The magnet collectors didnt seem to have that much metal shavings on them.. I really expected more.
My problem was that the car wouldnt shift into 5th unless I was doing under 15 mph, *4.10 gears*
I had also missed several 2-3 shofts back in the day, and also my clutch pedal was sticking, and when I took off my slave cylinder it appears that I had broke off something on it
Pretty much redid the rear main seal, that A pillar seal thing behind the panel to the back of the block, and a new pilot bearing.. went with the ls7 clutch and flywheeel assembly.
New master and slave cylinders *have yet to bleed that setup...*
Started taking the tranny apart thursday afternoon when I realized I didnt have the clip pliers or the punch pins. I actually removed most of the rings with the crappy channel lock ring pliers. WOW o WOW they sucked. The locker ring pliers from craftsman are godly, too bad I found out about them after.
Ive numbered about 20-25 peices into bags that I took off in order, before I could finally jiggle and wiggle the main shaft and the guide shafts out of the main housing.
it took a craftsman t40 torx bit that came attached to the 3/8" drive socket. That baby got out those guide torx bolts quite easily, after I had broken 2 made in china, 2 kobolt, and 1 taskforce t40 bits
I still havent hard back from amber who i sent a pm too, about on of their rebuild kits. So I may go to that google search place and order...
Wow so how bad of a nightmare is it replacing peices of a cynchro, or do you just chuck the synchro and get a whole new one?
I am assuming the pads are the black things on the end of the forks... and he keys are those tiny lil square tidbits int he synchros...
Anyways, I need a nights rest.
Im curious, is there much risk/danger in the tranny oxidizing while working on it? I bagged most of the peices ive taken off of it and put them in plastic drawers. but a for the casing and the shafts etc they are laying on the bench but all still feel pretty slick from the old atf. Should I cover them, I laid a plstic painters cloth over them to help keep out dust etc...
But should I do a better job to keep out moisture etc?
Whew thanks
Great writeup and guide... life saver!!
