transmissionrebuildT56089.jpg?t=1263099467

- 20 ton press $140 used
- dial indicator and magnetic base $55.00
- snap ring pliers $20.00
- bearing splitter $29.00
- 2 jaw puller $25.00
- bearings, synchro blocker rings, snap rings, seals, trans lube, etc.. $495.00 US
- Spec stage 1 clutch kit $ 379.00 US
- flywheel machining $30.00 cash Thanks buddy!
- various hand tools given to me for my birthday, and xmas my hole life..free!
- various pullers, hot plate borrowed from work...free!
- Blood, sweat, and tears.. free of course!
- feeling of accomplishment, and saying "I rebuilt my own transmission" PRICELESS! THANK YOU MASTER CARD!

 

If you want to check the "end play" and you should as these transmission have really close tolerances! I set my main and cluster shaft as close to zero play as I could, they both ended up at 0.0015" close enough! I set my tail shaft driven (5th and 6th gear) at 0.004" it was as close as I could get it with my shim pack. They recommend 0.002-0.005"

Here is the Tool I made cheaply instead of the expensive factory tool, all you need is about 20" of M12 by 1.75mm ready rod or all thread, two M12 nuts, M12 long nut, and some sort of spacer, I used an old body mount insert.

transmissionrebuildT56111.jpg?t=1263100621

transmissionrebuildT56110.jpg?t=1263101195

another look at the shimming tool

transmissionrebuildT56106.jpg?t=1263102861

transmissionrebuildT56094.jpg?t=1263101400

transmissionrebuildT56092.jpg?t=1263101455

Using the tool to check the end play of the cluster shaft, you remove the pipe plug in the front adapter plate and slide the rod through the opening (the spacer allows contact to the shaft, and not to the front plate, allowing the shaft to move in and out) and tighten the long nut on the back side. This needs to be done with no shims, and the back half of the tranny dissembled, and the front plate to case bolts torqued down to 26 f/lbs. Ounce you calculate the play, use a micrometer or vernier caliper to select the proper shims, disassemble, add the required shims, and recheck. *Note you can check both the main and cluster shaft at the same time, but make sure you shim both of these before checking the tail shaft.

transmissionrebuildT56098.jpg?t=1263101920

transmissionrebuildT56099.jpg?t=1263101952

Checking the main shaft play, the tool is not needed here just some scrap pieces of steel and a couple vise grips

transmissionrebuildT56124.jpg?t=1263102071

Using the tool to check the tail shaft (5 and 6 driven gears/synchros). after setting the main and cluster shaft play install the 5th and 6th driven gear shaft, tail housing, and torque the bolts to 26 ft/lbs. install the tool with out the long nut and without the spacer into the front plate fully screw into the threads of the 5/6 shaft. *note the shims for this shaft are under the bearing race in the tail shaft, you will need to remove the reverse idler to get the race all the way out.

Tips it is easier to push the shaft down then set the dial indicator to zero, then lift the shaft up to its highest point record were it stops this is your clearance or "play".

Dial indicators, magnetic basses, and micrometers, can be found for much less then you think from places such as Princess Auto, and House of tools. Hope this helps someone, feel free to ask me any questions! -Jamie

 

Very nice pics. Thanks much, Dean

 

definately sticky worthy and i do a lot of things on my own...however..i am not saying that this is not doable by any means..i am just glad that i got mine done at Tick Performance and i didn't lose any damn thing in the process nor did i break anything...

 

Thanks guys, yeah it was definitely a challenge, checking the end play isn't too bad, but doing all the bearings is quiet a challenge I wouldn't recommend that to anyone! I am a High pressure (6000psi) ! Compressor mechanic so I have experience with bearings, and such, but anyone with some mechanical knowledge, and the willing to learn should be able to tackle it no problem.

I ran into two problems along the way; one aligning the shift rails, they have to be just right, in order to get the guide bolts in, and two I broke one of my guides bolts of flush in the case on final assembly!! I used my torque wrench, how ever I think it was weak from heating it with a torch to get it out in the first place! Now I am unsure of what to do??? Leave it in..it is lock tightened it in! It probably won't come loose, or use a nut and weld it to the stud try and get it out, then order a new one from someone?? help????

 

Before u try to weld a nut to it try to get it out with a lefthand drillbit just be sure to centerpunch it first so u are drilling in the center of the old bolt if it don't come out u already have the hole for the e z out u might need a lil heat first to melt the locktite

 

thanks for the tip dave70, I still can't decide on weather it is worth it to get it out, I mean it should stay where it is it is lock tightened in..I hope anyways!!!

 

I got the bolt out with a center punch, and some heat, installed the replacement one, installed the spec clutch, and drove it around on the weekend! The transmission works good, especially second gear! I used a 3m cookie cutter, and sharpened a point to each dog..slides right in every time..like butter, I wish I did that to all of the gears now!! oh well!

My clutch is another story though help!!! after over 500 kms of city driving it steal feels like sh*t! I let out the clutch in 1st or reverse the whole car shakes, and shudders like a bast*&%d! It also does this when down shifting, my gut tells me the machine shop f*cked up my flywheel?? Help???? Has anyone had success with Spec clutches before? At least the spec clutch releases fully, and I can hold the clutch down without getting a leg cramp! FYI I had a center force clutch in it before, bu the pressure plate, is all heat checked the the disk was worn, plus it wasn't completely releasing.

 

Im not really a fan of machined flywheels they tend to cause more grief than its worth in my experience. That said it is what it is so I'd suggest beating on the clutch hard for a little while those disks are tough and can be a bear to get bedded/broken in. Usually smooths out after a while but even after break in learning how to take off smoothly takes some practice and technique thats for sure. Once you get used to it you'll likely be fine just dont think you can drive it like a stock clutch and try and slip it or you'll be forever wrestling with it. Try and learn how to get off the pedal quick without bucking and roll into the throttle just enough without blowing off the tires or bogging it down. Once you get used to it it'll probably be okay

 

94camaroZ28LT1... the cookie cutter mod. what did you grind? are you talking about on the bottom of the gear itself or the on the blocker ring? or the outer hub of the syncro? i"d like to do this while mine is apart. Someone said there was a writeup on ls2.com but i can't find it. The "dogs" on my 2nd gear are the only ones that show any wear can i clean it up instead of having to buy a new 2nd gear?

 

I'll try to post pics

 

Sorry I would have replied sooner, I that I was subscribed to this thread! I never got any emails saying there was change!

I wish I had of taken a close up picture of a gear, then I could use paint to show where to grind the "dogs" If someone can post a picture of a gear I will use paint to show were to grind it.

I will try and describe it using words!! Ok the part on each gear where the sycnhro sleeve slides onto, to engage the gear, comes to a point where the sleeve of the synchro slides onto, over time, and when the blocker rings get worn these pionts become rounded, and make shifting difficult or notchy feeling, if you sharpen a knew point to them, then it will go in like butter. Also on the sychro sleeves you can grind them to a new point as well, if the have become somewhat rounded. I only did second gear, because I wasn't sure how it would work, but now I wish I did every gear, it only takes about 20 min. to do a gear. I didn't do any of the synchro sleeves, but the same transmission shop that told be how to do the gear said that you can also sharpen them as well. I wouldn't be to worried about 5, 6 and reverse. These are really easy to get into, and you can flip the reverse sycnhro sleeve around for a new face.

 

I have a pic of my 2nd gear but need to figure out how to post it. My synchro sleeves are worn down to the point I don't think they can be saved but I'll post pics of them too. Thanks man.

 

Never mind I found a pic of one of my gears, I believe this is 3rd gear. The picture I took of my sharpen 2nd gear is to blurry! So I drew in red where it needs to be sharpened, hope this helps!

transmissionrebuildT56008.jpg?t=1265257161

 

Hows that clutch working?

 

It's not.. aruh!!! I either bent the clutch disk on install, or it was already bent in shipping, and I didn't check it before it went in. That is what was causing the chattering, and now it looks like maybe the pressure plate is fucked, as it has hot spots from slipping, and I had to get the fly-wheel resurfaced.

I am becoming frustrated with spec clutches now! Since they can't tell me if it can be fixed without seeing it I have to send it back to them which will cost me approximately 100.00 total in shipping there and back. I also have asked him for an RMA # they required proof of purchase so I sent that to them, and now they sent me an email regarding the pressure plate bolts I was talking about, but no RMA #.. what the f*ck, now I have to wait till there open again on Monday to get that number, what a pain in the ***! I also called him right away, when the clutch wasn't working properly, they told me to drive it more so I did, aren't they now partially responsible for the damage to the pressure plate? Had they have told me to check it right away, at least it wouldn't have been messed up! All I can say is don't buy Spec clutches if you live in Canada, because it is a big hassle and cost way to much to send it back for either warranty repair, or something you messed up your self!!! Here my car sits insured for no good reason waiting, and waiting. I am tempted to just pay the piper for a stock Valeo clutch.. why must everything be so much more money here in canada! I am ready to Huck this pile of **** clutch in the garbage!

 

Any less than 500 rwhp and LS7 clutch is what you all want. Tons of grip, stock manners, lasts for what seems like forever... 3 seasons here and no problems at all still drives like new.

Check out this thread for any doubters;

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...ever-dies.html

 

i have a lt1 not a ls1, but i will keep that in mind when i drop ls1 in colorado

 

Good info i think i may try to rebuild mine myself.

 

. Go for it! Any questions.. feel free to ask! Before you take it apart, what is wrong with it? It may be helpful to do some driving tests before dissembly, to help you focus on a certain part!

Good luck! Enjoy, I found it very rewarding!