T56 Rebuild "how to" write up
Just falls out of third under light acceleration.
Just falls out of third under light acceleration.
When you look at the dogs on the gear and the synchro sleeve you will see that they are a coffin shape opposed to each other, friction hold the two together, so I guess if the are worn to almost a rectangle then there won't be enough friction to hold them together and it will jump out? Does this make any sense?
I hope it is just a bent fork, as the gear and 3-4 sychro could get pricey in a hurry!
Others chime in hear as mine didn't have any problems ounce in gear.. it never slipped out! As far as I know the slipping out could be do to a bent shift fork, badly worn synchro sleeve, dogs on gear worn broken or missing?
When you look at the dogs on the gear and the synchro sleeve you will see that they are a coffin shape opposed to each other, friction hold the two together, so I guess if the are worn to almost a rectangle then there won't be enough friction to hold them together and it will jump out? Does this make any sense?
I hope it is just a bent fork, as the gear and 3-4 sychro could get pricey in a hurry!
When you look at the dogs on the gear and the synchro sleeve you will see that they are a coffin shape opposed to each other, friction hold the two together, so I guess if the are worn to almost a rectangle then there won't be enough friction to hold them together and it will jump out? Does this make any sense?
I hope it is just a bent fork, as the gear and 3-4 sychro could get pricey in a hurry!
So I started tonight. Got the tranny out and the front plate, rear housing and vent tube off. Tomorrow I will start on the rest of the tear down. So who knoes someplace besides thegearbox.org to get parts? They aren't shipping parts until March 2nd and I do not want to wait that long.
wow! Assembly:
Clean the splined parts and grease them up prior to assembly. This way you won't need a press, some will go on by hand or with minimal effort from a hammer and the PVC pipe.
Soak the blocker rings in ATF fluid for 20 minutes or more prior to installation.
Countershaft:
Now begin putting parts back together:
Countershaft Assembly Complete:
Mainshaft Assembly:
Starting with the longer end:
-scrape off the old silicone
Put the countershaft into it's socket
Set up the mainshaft with the shift rail assembly and forks, such that you can put it in as on piece.
Apply lube to the ball to make things stick.
Slip main case on and position the front offset lever to sit on the ball while sliding the shift rail through.
(Note the ball sticking to the detent with grease)
-front offset lever not shown.
Here we are
Drive the roller pin back through the shifter saddle.
Torque Specs:
%%% edit %%%
A number of people have contacted me about fixing the leak between the tail housing and the main case. Here you go.
Fix Leak Between Tail housing and Main Case
Remove shifter:
Remove the 4 hex perimeter bolts and remove the entire shifter as a single unit
Punch out Roll pin in shifter saddle and set aside.
Stand transmission up with the input shaft facing down,
-put the input shaft through a hole in a table, the bellhousing and a couple of blocks will also work
Remove:
(8) 5/8" bolts from the tail-housing and lift tail-housing off
clean surface, reapply silicon
Slide the tail housing on. If you can't get it quite on, it's probably because the 5/6 shift rail isn't lining up with the tail shaft socket (look at the inside of the tail housing and you'll understand). As you're sliding the tail housing on, use a long thin tool to pull it (the 5/6 shift rail) towards the right, and towards you; when you get it right, it should fall right into place.
Drive the roller pin back through the shifter saddle.
bolt up tail housing bolts to 26ft.lbs
put the shifter back on. 4 perimeter bolts @ 15 ft. lbs
Clean the splined parts and grease them up prior to assembly. This way you won't need a press, some will go on by hand or with minimal effort from a hammer and the PVC pipe.
Soak the blocker rings in ATF fluid for 20 minutes or more prior to installation.
Countershaft:
Now begin putting parts back together:
5th Gear and grey needle bearing
Blocker ring
Synchro Assembly
-Remember to line up the keys with the slots on the blocker rings.
Snap ring
Spacer
Blocker ring
6th Gear and brown needle bearing
Thrust washer- has a lip,
-Orientation- lip goes flush against 6th
below - correct orientation of the needle bearings, (grey left, brown right)Blocker ring
Synchro Assembly
-Remember to line up the keys with the slots on the blocker rings.
Snap ring
Spacer
Blocker ring
6th Gear and brown needle bearing
Thrust washer- has a lip,
-Orientation- lip goes flush against 6th
Countershaft Assembly Complete:
Mainshaft Assembly:
Starting with the longer end:
2nd Gear and caged needle bearing
Thrust washer, (sprocket type)
Friction cone
Blocker ring
(1/2) Synchro
-Slide it on if you can, otherwise get out the 2.5" PVC pipe and tap it on with a hammer.
Blocker ring
Friction cone
Inner cone
Thrust washer
Snap ring
1st Gear and caged needle bearing
Bearing-(the large tapered race)
Rubber o-ring
Thrust washer, (sprocket type)
Friction cone
Blocker ring
(1/2) Synchro
-Slide it on if you can, otherwise get out the 2.5" PVC pipe and tap it on with a hammer.
Blocker ring
Friction cone
Inner cone
Thrust washer
Snap ring
1st Gear and caged needle bearing
Bearing-(the large tapered race)
Rubber o-ring
You should now have something that resembles this.
Turn over to stubby end and start putting on
Spacer
3rd Gear and caged needle bearing
(3/4) Synchro Assembly
-line up 3rd gear side's blocker ring with the synchro
-4the gear's side will be line up when the mainshaft goes back on the input shaft, when setting up the adapter plate (2 pics down)
Snap ring
Spacer
3rd Gear and caged needle bearing
(3/4) Synchro Assembly
-line up 3rd gear side's blocker ring with the synchro
-4the gear's side will be line up when the mainshaft goes back on the input shaft, when setting up the adapter plate (2 pics down)
Snap ring
The mainshaft at this stage.
edit: The grooves on the sliders should face down. Below, the grooves on the (3/4) slider are facing the wrong direction; I had to take it off and flip it.
-thanks to nine-eight for the correction
edit: The grooves on the sliders should face down. Below, the grooves on the (3/4) slider are facing the wrong direction; I had to take it off and flip it.
-thanks to nine-eight for the correction
Set the input shaft and adapter plate up like so,
Go ahead and put the (5/6) shift rail assembly back in and 4th gear with the appropriate blocker ring.
Go ahead and put the (5/6) shift rail assembly back in and 4th gear with the appropriate blocker ring.
-scrape off the old silicone
Put the countershaft into it's socket
Set up the mainshaft with the shift rail assembly and forks, such that you can put it in as on piece.
Slide the forks up and slide the mainshaft back in, then slide the forks back to the neutral position.
-If the sleeves over extend, simply tap them back into place. With a little persuasion/force they will slide back over the keys, taking it apart and reconfiguring is not necessary.
Turn the mainshaft so the notches on the 3/4 synchro and 4th gear blocker ring will line up and find their positions.
-It will fall into place; you can visually check it, if you marked everything.
-If the sleeves over extend, simply tap them back into place. With a little persuasion/force they will slide back over the keys, taking it apart and reconfiguring is not necessary.
Turn the mainshaft so the notches on the 3/4 synchro and 4th gear blocker ring will line up and find their positions.
-It will fall into place; you can visually check it, if you marked everything.
The 5/6 shift levers interlock, line them up with the shift select pin.
You're ready to slip the main case on.
-run a bead of silicone
-use sparingly, the tolerances are tight
You're ready to slip the main case on.
-run a bead of silicone
-use sparingly, the tolerances are tight
Apply lube to the ball to make things stick.
Slip main case on and position the front offset lever to sit on the ball while sliding the shift rail through.
(Note the ball sticking to the detent with grease)
-front offset lever not shown.
Here we are
Put the shift guide bolts back in, use a flashlight to look for the slots they fit in.
(2) T40 torx,
countershaft extension and 5/6 fork
-It was assembled as a whole unit prior, put it back on with the fork in position as a single unit (the protruding base of the fork faces down)
-Be sure to get the correct orientation of the lipped thrust washer, the lip sits flush against the 6th gear
Snap Ring on 5/6 fork
5/6 gear
-It's splined, tap it on with the PVC pipe
countershaft extension and 5/6 fork
-It was assembled as a whole unit prior, put it back on with the fork in position as a single unit (the protruding base of the fork faces down)
-Be sure to get the correct orientation of the lipped thrust washer, the lip sits flush against the 6th gear
Snap Ring on 5/6 fork
5/6 gear
-It's splined, tap it on with the PVC pipe
Synchro Assembly
Thrust washer
Snap ring
Brass blocker ring, for reverse gear
Wave washer
Bearing, reverse needle
Gear, reverse
Thrust washer
Snap ring
Spacer
Bearing, roller type
Spacer
Snap ring
-a bit up the shaftThrust washer
Snap ring
Brass blocker ring, for reverse gear
Wave washer
Bearing, reverse needle
Gear, reverse
Thrust washer
Snap ring
Spacer
Bearing, roller type
Spacer
Snap ring
Snap ring
Speed rotor, tap on
Snap ring
Rubber seal
Slide the tail housing on. If you can't get it quite on, it's probably because the 5/6 shift rail isn't lining up with the tail shaft socket. Use a long thin tool to pull it towards the right, and towards you; when you get it right, it should fall right into place.Speed rotor, tap on
Snap ring
Rubber seal
Drive the roller pin back through the shifter saddle.
Torque Specs:
Tail housing bolts, 26ft.lbs,
Bell housing, 37ft.lbs
Shifter and guide plate, 15ft.lbs
Adapter plate bolts 11ft.lbs
Drain plug 26ft.lbs
-corrections/input welcomeBell housing, 37ft.lbs
Shifter and guide plate, 15ft.lbs
Adapter plate bolts 11ft.lbs
Drain plug 26ft.lbs
%%% edit %%%
A number of people have contacted me about fixing the leak between the tail housing and the main case. Here you go.
Fix Leak Between Tail housing and Main Case
Remove shifter:
Remove the 4 hex perimeter bolts and remove the entire shifter as a single unit
Punch out Roll pin in shifter saddle and set aside.
Stand transmission up with the input shaft facing down,
-put the input shaft through a hole in a table, the bellhousing and a couple of blocks will also work
Remove:
(8) 5/8" bolts from the tail-housing and lift tail-housing off
clean surface, reapply silicon
Slide the tail housing on. If you can't get it quite on, it's probably because the 5/6 shift rail isn't lining up with the tail shaft socket (look at the inside of the tail housing and you'll understand). As you're sliding the tail housing on, use a long thin tool to pull it (the 5/6 shift rail) towards the right, and towards you; when you get it right, it should fall right into place.
Drive the roller pin back through the shifter saddle.
bolt up tail housing bolts to 26ft.lbs
put the shifter back on. 4 perimeter bolts @ 15 ft. lbs
So I started tonight. Got the tranny out and the front plate, rear housing and vent tube off. Tomorrow I will start on the rest of the tear down. So who knoes someplace besides thegearbox.org to get parts? They aren't shipping parts until March 2nd and I do not want to wait that long.
Get your parts at www.tickshift.com There in N.C. too.
Problem was a broke key in the 3/4 syncro. So i am ordering parts now.
Last edited by MUSTANGBRKR02; Feb 16, 2010 at 08:38 PM.
Hey guys just going over my clutch problem with a fine tooth comb, and I need your help/advice. I pulled the clutch out at 1500 kms for extreme shudder on take off, I found hot spots on half the fly-wheel and pressure plate, and the disk was bent. I had the pressure plate checked out and cleaned up, the fly-wheel re machined, and a new clutch disk made up, he could not get a disk separate for the LT1 so he just got a regular 11" 26 spline disk, and switched the hub around to mate up with the pull style clutch.
First question when I bolt the pressure plate up against the fly-wheel the throughout bearing contacts the disk, and makes it harder to turn by hand, seams the clutch hub is a bit higher then the spec disk, is this normal? the disk looks exactly like a old center force one I have laying around, do I need to change the throughout bearing to a different one..??? has anybody noticed this before?
second question I noticed that the input shaft of the transmission is loose I can wiggle it from side to side, a fair amount but not enough to contact the throughout bearing sleeve, there is very little if any in and out moment. Is this normal? or has my new bearing crapped out already??
Please help guys I want to get it back together this weekend, and I don't want to pull it apart again!!
First question when I bolt the pressure plate up against the fly-wheel the throughout bearing contacts the disk, and makes it harder to turn by hand, seams the clutch hub is a bit higher then the spec disk, is this normal? the disk looks exactly like a old center force one I have laying around, do I need to change the throughout bearing to a different one..??? has anybody noticed this before?
second question I noticed that the input shaft of the transmission is loose I can wiggle it from side to side, a fair amount but not enough to contact the throughout bearing sleeve, there is very little if any in and out moment. Is this normal? or has my new bearing crapped out already??
Please help guys I want to get it back together this weekend, and I don't want to pull it apart again!!
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
This was the easiest thing I have ever done. Slid it apart and slid it back together. With enough pressure, I was able to pull everything by hand! Tapped things back together with a rubber mallet. Only 2 of ALL AREAS REQUIRED still had any paper facing left and I had a couple of slider keys broken. One of the blocker rings was also missing a couple of teeth. OUCH! Shift fork pads were also shot. Cracked or broken on at least 1 of each shift forks. Somehow all of the gears were still in good shape.
got my heads/cam car sitting dead in the water right now because the tranny is locked in third and have been thinking about doing this.
To rebuild the tranny to say, hold a 1k hp (looking to the future), where can a master rebuild kit be bought to bring the t-56 up to spec to handle that kind of power and what kind of money would i be looking at spending?
now that this is up, i think i'm not the only one with this question.
is this also saying that to rebuild a transmission, this is all that there is to it? I was always under the impression there was alot more to it.
To rebuild the tranny to say, hold a 1k hp (looking to the future), where can a master rebuild kit be bought to bring the t-56 up to spec to handle that kind of power and what kind of money would i be looking at spending?
now that this is up, i think i'm not the only one with this question.
is this also saying that to rebuild a transmission, this is all that there is to it? I was always under the impression there was alot more to it.
Dude. my trans did this. and i gorilla snatched it out... and now the trans grinds 3/4. and its happening to 5/6 again... wth causes this?
Gotta question for some ...
First off.. My T56 has been rebuilt about 40k miles ago. But after the trip to the track on hoosiers , Its not been very happy. And My 00 ws6 has all stock hydraulics with a LS6 clutch kit. (40k + miles on it!!)
Okay.. Real quickly, the tranny whines something Fierce !! and its annoying as hell.
If i try to put it into 1st gear real fast it kinda grinds loudly, And then you absolutely cant shift into 2nd fast at all or it will grind. You have to just simply slowly shift in 2nd gear.
What does it sound like im looking at here? I really want to tear it down and get this bitch rebuilt ..thanks !
First off.. My T56 has been rebuilt about 40k miles ago. But after the trip to the track on hoosiers , Its not been very happy. And My 00 ws6 has all stock hydraulics with a LS6 clutch kit. (40k + miles on it!!)
Okay.. Real quickly, the tranny whines something Fierce !! and its annoying as hell.
If i try to put it into 1st gear real fast it kinda grinds loudly, And then you absolutely cant shift into 2nd fast at all or it will grind. You have to just simply slowly shift in 2nd gear.
What does it sound like im looking at here? I really want to tear it down and get this bitch rebuilt ..thanks !
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Great write up. I have a few questions I am about to pull the tranny out of my car to rebuild it myself because of the write up I just did a auto to six speed bought the tranny usEd the prevous owner said there were issues with noise and boy was he right the tranny shifts fine but it makes a horrable vlasing sound like the counter shaft and the gears are banging Into each other from the t56 guys here what do u think I am going to encounter when I pull this box apart. Thx
Teching In
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Gotta question for some ...
First off.. My T56 has been rebuilt about 40k miles ago. But after the trip to the track on hoosiers , Its not been very happy. And My 00 ws6 has all stock hydraulics with a LS6 clutch kit. (40k + miles on it!!)
Okay.. Real quickly, the tranny whines something Fierce !! and its annoying as hell.
If i try to put it into 1st gear real fast it kinda grinds loudly, And then you absolutely cant shift into 2nd fast at all or it will grind. You have to just simply slowly shift in 2nd gear.
What does it sound like im looking at here? I really want to tear it down and get this bitch rebuilt ..thanks !
First off.. My T56 has been rebuilt about 40k miles ago. But after the trip to the track on hoosiers , Its not been very happy. And My 00 ws6 has all stock hydraulics with a LS6 clutch kit. (40k + miles on it!!)
Okay.. Real quickly, the tranny whines something Fierce !! and its annoying as hell.
If i try to put it into 1st gear real fast it kinda grinds loudly, And then you absolutely cant shift into 2nd fast at all or it will grind. You have to just simply slowly shift in 2nd gear.
What does it sound like im looking at here? I really want to tear it down and get this bitch rebuilt ..thanks !
Need help, my reverse shift fork won't come off. I removed the snap ring (113) and the syncro snap ring (69) but the shift for still wont come off. It rotates freely and had some back forth play but refuses to come off.