acceleration junky

I'm considering a spec 3+ with the aluminum PP and aluminum flywheel. But, I burnt out a previous spec clutch rather quickly by slipping it for street manners. So I would like to know how the Spec 3+ holds up on a DD. I heard ( I hate to say that), that spec clutches dont like heat and shouldnt be slipped. If any Spec 3+ owners can give me thier opinion/experiences, I would appreciate it.

xRelapse13

iTrader: (21)

I have a spec 3+ and my car is a DD, driveabilty wise its not that hard to drive once you get used to it but it is a clutch that is definitley not meant to be slipped. It is very grippy and if you try to slip it to or ride it out a bit slower for a smoother start or parking lot manuverability it most likely will die quicker than what it usually would last. For my next clutch, I most likely will be going with a Textralia 0700 x grip, I've heard nothing but good things about it. Hope this helps.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

An aluminum PP and FW will kill that clutch even quicker. Its not a real street clutch but it can be driven on the street, its just needs to be driven w/ care.

1sick'98WS6

iTrader: (19)

Spec and Durability are just two things that arent normally said in the same sentance.....

KHAOS

Agreed with what's been said. I'm going to have to change out my SPEC 3+ here very shortly. It's not a good street clutch at all. So I'm looking at either an LS7 or a Textralia X-grip.

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

The aluminum flywheel will kill the clutch on the street. Run the billet steel flywheel.

myfast70

iTrader: (38)

I've got the 3+ and have had great luck with it. It's got a great feel to it and engagement is awesome! I think they're rated to something like 800-850 rwtq so it should be able to take anything you're going to throw at it. I drove a friends '02 with an LS7 clutch and it wasn't a whole lot stiffer then his. BTW, I've got their billet steel flywheel

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

Guys...clutch life is dependent on a number of factors...these include but are not limited too the following: flatness of surfaces used, installation, contamination, driving style, power out put (ie how close are you to the clutches rated capacity). Use of an aluminum flywheel and plate won't lead to premature wear...but people that slip the clutch excessively because they are not use to the difference in inertia associated with a lighter assembly can cause faster wear. As with any clutch, the more it is slipped the more it is worn.

The 3+ is one of the most drivable high capacity clutch kits available...I have driven them in countless vehicles myself and have never thought that they were hard to actuate or use in general. Of course, I am sure that I will be viewed as a biased party, but these are Jeremy opinions/experiences and I reference them as one enthusiast to another!

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

+1...Very easy to actuate.


Only question I have about this thread is where people comment on "poor installations." What is meant SPECIFICALLY by "poor installation?" The flywheel is either new or cleaned up (machined), the pressure plate/flywheel assembly is balanced, the pressure plate is dowel aligned, a clutch alignment tool is used for the wear disk alignment, the transmission & bell housing are dowel aligned to the rear of the engine. So, what does "poor installation mean?" Does it mean a guy whom didn't clean up the flywheel surface, didn't balance the flywheel/pressure plate assembly,.....what?

Biggest install problem that I can see is that GM should have used an adjustable master cylinder. Further, the use of that damn slave cylinder spacer (on after market set ups) can cause slippage when the clutch pedal isn't even pressed because the spacer has located the slave cylinder too close to the pressure plate fingers. This, of course is not the installer's fault. How is he to know? So, my suggestion for non-stock insalls is to use an adjustable master & can the slave cylinder spacer or @ least find the flywheel to pressure plate finger dimension of a stock assembly & if your after market set up is more (most are), then can the spacer. Anyway, hope this is helpful.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

Installers are ultimately responsible for insuring that the parts are in good condition: that the shaft isn't over greased, that the rear-main seal isn't leaking, that the flywheel is flat and balanced...and if there is an issue they should inform the customer. Of course the customer has to make the call on what is ultimately done...but if the shop is providing the correct information and the owner is understanding of what they suggest then it should be a fairly easy process.

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

So, who's gonna comment regarding the difference between the dimension from the flywheel to the pressure plate fingers? Both of my aftermarket clutches had a greater dimension from the flywheel to the pressure plate fingers than a stock clutch does. Further, the aftermarket spacer that came with both clutches were nearly (within a couple thou) the same thickness as the stock spacer. I'm posting this so that installers (usually DIY guys from LS1 Tech), look out for this. As mentioned above, when the fingers are closer to the slave cylinder & a non-adjustable master is used, the fingers can be in a slightly compressed state that can result in slippage. Am not being critical of the after market design, am simply drawing attention to the fact that this area needs to be looked at before instaling the clutch.

My point in the previous post was that it is unlikely to incorrectly install a clutch because of the self alignment of the assembly. Only incompitence of not balancing, not cleaning up the flywheel,...simple stuff would lead to trouble. It is more likely that guys don't know about the dimensional differences that move the pressure plate fingers closer to the slave cylinder. A guy can spend a lot of time & $ thinking he has is right, installs the spacer, & bam....early wear & a faulty clutch that gets blamed on his installation.

So guys, be aware that there can be dimensional differences as described. You must modify your set up accordingly. Use adjustable masters & can also mean getting rid of the spacer....dimensional checks are critical.

svtkilr

iTrader: (3)

what causes the aluminum flywheel to kill it on the street i am fixin to go with a 3 plus is why im askin to ensure i get the best flywheel plus i plan on doing high rpm launches on it if that makes any difference...

tillery

iTrader: (4)

I had a spec stage 3 and had great track times out of it. City traffic killed mine were I had to be on and off the clutch. So for me it was more operater error. ANd I would hot lap it at the track. I hear the 3+ is better for the street, but I have a diff clutch now. Now as for flywheels- for the track a steel is better because of you need the weight for launch(inertia)auto cross-aluminum-to keep the engine up while going thru curves or on the brakes.

Avengeance

iTrader: (4)

My Spec 3 was a great clutch until I put the Procharger on the car.

I also had a Alum. FW.... I absolutely hated it on the street. For casual in town shifting the car would drop RPM so fast between gears that it was almost impossible to drive smoothly, or to transition gears smoothly. After the SPEC died I got a TEX OZ700 and went with the billet steel FW... I couldnt be happier.

98camaroLS1M6

iTrader: (35)

Spec 3+ kicks butt. Aluminum Flywheels are good for the street if you know how to drive them.

The Manalishi

iTrader: (3)

Spec seems to be a love it or hate it deal. Doesn't seem to be much middle ground. Aluminum flywheels are the same. You'll get responses based on peoples experience. I loved my aluminum flywheel but hated the Spec clutches I've had.

greyghost4x4

iTrader: (10)

What are the dimensions? do you still know?

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

The actual dimensions aren't as important as noting the difference. To check for dimensional differences, mount both pressure plates to the "new" (to be used on the new set-up) flywheel, one at a time. Measure the dimension from the flywheel to the fingers on each & note any difference. If the new clutch fingers are farther away from the flywheel than on the previous clutch, this means that the fingers are closer to the slave cylinder. So, in order to create the same set-up dimensionally, the difference needs to be eliminated. This can mean removing the slave cylinder spacer &/or an adjustable master cylinder. If the new clutch fingers are closer to the flywheel, this means that the fingers are farther away from the slave cylinder & can mean adding a spacer &/or an adjustable master cylinder.

The only time (shouldn't say only, but, for conversational purposes) that knowing the actual dimension beforehand, is if your current assembly (set-up being removed from the car) didn't last long because of a dimensional problem. This would mean that there is no base dimension for a set-up that has worked properly. However, even in this case, because the set-up didn't last long, it's best to try to move the slave cylinder away from the fingers on the new install. So, just move it out 1/16" or so & give it a try.

The true culprit in dimensional related slip or disengagement problems (if blead properly) is the non-adjustable master used by GM. Having the ability to adjust the volume of oil that passes from the master to the slave cylinder provides adjustability for most dimensional differences.

blksheep

iTrader: (3)

i loved my spec 3+ in my F-body. never had a problem with it.

i have a tex oz700 Zgrip in the vette and im gonna replace it with a spec 3+. I have had to many problems to list with the tex.

greyghost4x4

iTrader: (10)

did you use an adjustable master? im gonna be using the GM master