Tex oz-700 dragging update.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 9,830
Likes: 2
From: Wallingford CT
Tex oz-700 dragging update. I got a response to my issue, and I have sent a response but he is slow to respond.... The clutch is properly bleed, and there is a ram unit in there. Mcleod currently has stopped production on their MC and I havent gotten a techical answer why their is better. I heard more fluid to push but why cant a shim do the same thing, its pushing it out further. Its just really annoying.
"Original Post" https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/929267-clutch-disengagement-issues-textrailia-oz-700-ram-adjustible-master.html
Lets go over a few things including bleeding. Most folks don't bleed the clutch properly. So, I am going to detail out how to bleed the clutch.
First off, clutch bleeding is a two man job. You need one person under the car, and one person in the car. Step one, feet of the pedal, and the Master cylinder topped off with fresh clean fluid. There is no sense in filling the system with dirty contaminated fluid. So, clean out the master cylinder and put in fresh fluid if you have not done so already.
Secondly, the person under the car will crack open the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. The person in the car will then depress the clutch pedal to the floor and will hold it to the floor. It is very important to not to let the clutch pedal off the floor at this point, as you will pull air back into the system. Once the pedal is depressed and held down, the person under the car will then close the bleeder screw. You may need to pull the pedal off the floor, or pump it up just a bit to get the pedal back.
You may need to repeat this procedure 4 or 5 times to remove all air from the system. Each stroke moves about 10ml of fluid. So, you want to make sure you don't run the master cylinder dry while you are bleeding the clutch. What you DO NOT want to do is to pump the pedal, hold it down, and then crack the bleeder screw. This is the wrong way to bleed the clutch, and you will never remove any air from the system this way.
Once the clutch is properly bled, if you still have issues with the clutch dragging, then contact us, and we can go over whether you need a McLeod or Ram adjustable M/C. I have only seen a few cars ever where this was ever the case. In those cases most of the time they were mixing and matching parts from different years, and the tolerances between all of that may be off a bit, once you add it all together. But, anything of course is possible. If you do need a McLeod, we can determine that with you. If so, in the case where we had to ad one to a car, we only had to add about 1 turn on the master cylinder rod to get the adjustment the customer needed for proper disengagement.
The RAM adjustable is a stock master cylinder with an adjustable rod on it. You can duplicate it with a few cents worth of parts from the hardware store. In most cases if you have a clutch drag issue, the stock adjustable will not fix the issue, it usually requires a McLeod.to get the additional travel.
Shimming the slave will have zero effect on the totals travel of the slave. So you will not resolve any issues with installing a shim. If it isn’t air in the system, and the system is fully bled, then you need to check to make sure you have no pressure plate blots backing out, and then you need to see if you need to replace the any components in the hydraulics.
Jarrod Cunningham
Textralia, Inc.
214-227-6660
email: jarrod@textralia.com.au
"Original Post" https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/929267-clutch-disengagement-issues-textrailia-oz-700-ram-adjustible-master.html
Lets go over a few things including bleeding. Most folks don't bleed the clutch properly. So, I am going to detail out how to bleed the clutch.
First off, clutch bleeding is a two man job. You need one person under the car, and one person in the car. Step one, feet of the pedal, and the Master cylinder topped off with fresh clean fluid. There is no sense in filling the system with dirty contaminated fluid. So, clean out the master cylinder and put in fresh fluid if you have not done so already.
Secondly, the person under the car will crack open the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. The person in the car will then depress the clutch pedal to the floor and will hold it to the floor. It is very important to not to let the clutch pedal off the floor at this point, as you will pull air back into the system. Once the pedal is depressed and held down, the person under the car will then close the bleeder screw. You may need to pull the pedal off the floor, or pump it up just a bit to get the pedal back.
You may need to repeat this procedure 4 or 5 times to remove all air from the system. Each stroke moves about 10ml of fluid. So, you want to make sure you don't run the master cylinder dry while you are bleeding the clutch. What you DO NOT want to do is to pump the pedal, hold it down, and then crack the bleeder screw. This is the wrong way to bleed the clutch, and you will never remove any air from the system this way.
Once the clutch is properly bled, if you still have issues with the clutch dragging, then contact us, and we can go over whether you need a McLeod or Ram adjustable M/C. I have only seen a few cars ever where this was ever the case. In those cases most of the time they were mixing and matching parts from different years, and the tolerances between all of that may be off a bit, once you add it all together. But, anything of course is possible. If you do need a McLeod, we can determine that with you. If so, in the case where we had to ad one to a car, we only had to add about 1 turn on the master cylinder rod to get the adjustment the customer needed for proper disengagement.
The RAM adjustable is a stock master cylinder with an adjustable rod on it. You can duplicate it with a few cents worth of parts from the hardware store. In most cases if you have a clutch drag issue, the stock adjustable will not fix the issue, it usually requires a McLeod.to get the additional travel.
Shimming the slave will have zero effect on the totals travel of the slave. So you will not resolve any issues with installing a shim. If it isn’t air in the system, and the system is fully bled, then you need to check to make sure you have no pressure plate blots backing out, and then you need to see if you need to replace the any components in the hydraulics.
Jarrod Cunningham
Textralia, Inc.
214-227-6660
email: jarrod@textralia.com.au
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 9,830
Likes: 2
From: Wallingford CT
Another Update,
I took the car out today, beat the ***** off of it.
Did another clutch test, it moved slightly in the 6k range, I think its finally breaking in.
I took the car out today, beat the ***** off of it.
Did another clutch test, it moved slightly in the 6k range, I think its finally breaking in.
Here's my take on the whole situation...
I was having a similar problem with my RPS (didn't realize it until recently), and it would start grabbing around 5k RPMs. It didn't move much, but you could feel it...
So, I bought a Ram adjustable master cylinder, but then got to thinking...this thing is gonna displace the same amount of fluid the stocker does due to the internal stop. Did some reading around on here, and sure enough...I found someone that had cut down the internal stop, and had pics to show how. So I did that, and I used my handy dandy pressure bleeder again to bleed the whole system. To do the initial bleed, I actually connected the master cylinder UNDER the car, and I have a remote bleeder line that goes up in to the engine bay. I tilted the master so that the rod end pointed down, and the fluid was exiting up (air bubbles go to the top after all). I installed it, adjusted the pedal, and it finally stopped grabbing once I got the pedal high enough.
Now how much more pedal travel did I have than stock? I have no idea...stupid me didn't take a before measurement. After I installed the new master, it was still grabbing until I lengthened the rod.
Take this advice at your own risk...the McLeod would be great in this situation since it displaces more fluid due to a larger piston diameter, but then again there are lots of people that complain about them leaking and such, and that's what steered me away from them.
I was having a similar problem with my RPS (didn't realize it until recently), and it would start grabbing around 5k RPMs. It didn't move much, but you could feel it...
So, I bought a Ram adjustable master cylinder, but then got to thinking...this thing is gonna displace the same amount of fluid the stocker does due to the internal stop. Did some reading around on here, and sure enough...I found someone that had cut down the internal stop, and had pics to show how. So I did that, and I used my handy dandy pressure bleeder again to bleed the whole system. To do the initial bleed, I actually connected the master cylinder UNDER the car, and I have a remote bleeder line that goes up in to the engine bay. I tilted the master so that the rod end pointed down, and the fluid was exiting up (air bubbles go to the top after all). I installed it, adjusted the pedal, and it finally stopped grabbing once I got the pedal high enough.
Now how much more pedal travel did I have than stock? I have no idea...stupid me didn't take a before measurement. After I installed the new master, it was still grabbing until I lengthened the rod.
Take this advice at your own risk...the McLeod would be great in this situation since it displaces more fluid due to a larger piston diameter, but then again there are lots of people that complain about them leaking and such, and that's what steered me away from them.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 9,830
Likes: 2
From: Wallingford CT
Ive bleed it only twice, when the CM was done and then the power bleed, then I beat the ***** off of the clutch.
When it was nice and hot, i re-did the clutch test and it seem to really improve. The clutch pedal and nice and firm. Much cleaner shifts too.
I am still debating on the shim, ive been a lil busy. The car hasnt moved since Wednesday last week, damn gas prices lol.
I am just going to take it to the track and say **** it. It isnt doing the same problem like it did when I 1st got it so I feel better about racing it.
When it was nice and hot, i re-did the clutch test and it seem to really improve. The clutch pedal and nice and firm. Much cleaner shifts too.
I am still debating on the shim, ive been a lil busy. The car hasnt moved since Wednesday last week, damn gas prices lol.
I am just going to take it to the track and say **** it. It isnt doing the same problem like it did when I 1st got it so I feel better about racing it.
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I bleed mine again last night seems a little better. I was thinking about hitting the track tonight as well. The damn clutch issues is what has kept me away from the track. Hate to waste the money to run and not be able to get a clean pass...
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