help i tried using a pilot bearing puller from aotozone and it would not fit any tricks help please?

 

I used a bolt the would just barely fit inside the bearing, then you fill the bearing cavity with grease and then put the bolt in the cavity and used a mallet and pound the bolt into the cavity and the grease will push the bearing out. you may have to fill the cavity several times to get it all the way out and don't be afraid to give it a good pop with the mallet.

 

I bought mine from autozone and thought the same thing at first. I grinded a tiny bit off the edges so I could get it started. Then it just took a few taps to knock it in with a mallet.

 

I have been told that there is a hole through the center of the crank on a LS1. They have a plug installed in the back of the crank. Just be careful not to knock it into the oil pan.

 

You can use the AutoZone puller with no modifications.

Just take a hammer and chisel and knock a slot in the pilot bearing. It doesn't take much effort, it's pretty weak metal. Just knock 1/2" of a notch on either side, needle bearings will fall out, shove in the puller, and yank that sumbitch out of there.

Do NOT use the grease method on an LS1 crank! (by the way, wet toilet paper works better than grease on solid core cranks) The LS1 crank is hollow, and you very well may send the crank oil gallery plug in to the oil pan (which someone here has done before, not to name names Zt*rd :p ).

-Andrew

 

Would a bad pilot bearing cause a LOUD whining or groaning? Supposedly, our local dealer replaced it and it did stop for a while but it has since started again. This sound wasn't occuring with the OE clutch, but after the SPEC stage 3 carbon was installed. The noise happens right after starting the car. Typically after the car cools for a while or is cold. When you rev it the noise goes away but will come back as the rpms settle back down. Once the car warms up the noise goes away. At first I was thinking it was an air pump but now I don't think so. Anyone have any thoughts?

 

The grease is a cushion and you never hit metal to metal, this is easier than using a puller I've done it both way's.

 

If you're using grease you're also pushing against the plug in the crank. Doesn't matter if you're hitting metal to metal or not, you're still pushing the plug with as much force as the pilot bearing. Go ahead and do it if you want, but don't come crying here if oil leaks from the motor all over your new clutch. Yes, you can see rods from the hole if there's no plug there, and oil does get slung up there.

I had a bad pilot bearing in my '88 Mazda. It was squeaking at idle, especially when the clutch pedal was pushed in, but the noise went away when the clutch pedal was released and the car was in gear. The bearing had seized.

-Andrew

 

dont use the grease method on the LS1. my friend found out the hard way then we had to lower the pan to get the plug out and to reinstall it. just not worth the trouble it will cause

JR

 

well i got it out i used a chizle to nock out the bearings then taped the puller in and with a fuew good tugs it poped out thanks for all the help guys and no i did not hit the plug thank god. but now i cant seem to get the tranny back in i used the alinment tool and it is ok what gives?

 

LOL, Don't worry I wouldn't come crying to you.

 

I used a peice of metal stock that was hooked like an alan wrench. Then I notched the long end to accomodate the claws of a hammer. Stuck the bent in and levered it behind the bearing then used a piece of wood so I could pry against the flywheel. Sorry kinda hard to explain.

If you want to do it hydraulically, use a 3/8 extension and if it doesn't fit completely snug try wrapping some electrical tape on it. I'm sure this has been said but I'm too lazy to read it all. Good luck.

 

I have talked to Allen at Futral Motorsports when I was changing my Clutch system and asked him the easiest way, he suggested what u and I did....use a cold chizle. VERY easy. just don't screw up ur crankshaft, but I think u'd have to be dumb to do that.

 

Same problem - difficulty removing the bearing. My Haynes manual suggests the grease method - I only tapped it with a small mallet and grease just leaked past the bolt so I gave that option up – darn good thing I didn't give it a good whack else I too would have had to remove the pan. A slide hammer with bolt to catch the inside lip of the bearing was useless and didn’t budge it a bit. I needed a puller. I didn't have a puller that would fit through the bearing. After a few beer and a lot of cussing I had an idea. I noticed that there is quite a large cavity in behind the bearing – more than enough for a large nut. I used threaded rod from my junk box which was a little smaller than the bearing inside diameter, ½ I believe. I then shaved down opposite sides of a nut that fits the rod. The nut won't pass through the bearing normally, it must be turned sideways. I simply did this on my bench grinder. I had to round the shaved sides a bit so that it would pass through the bearing. Use the new one to measure - just don't get filings in it or burn your fingers on the hot nut. The grease was still in in behind the bearing to support/suspend the nut. I slipped the nut in and turned it and lined it up with a small screw driver. I then put in the threaded rod and turned it until it caught some threads. Then pulled it back against the bearing to give it a little friction and turn it to catch the remaining threads on the nut. I put a large 1” drive socket over the rod (pipe nipple would work too – either must be large enough to pull the bearing into), a large washer, another nut and tighten it down while holding the threaded rod with a pair of pair of pliers. This simple no cost puller setup pulled the bearing out with ease. Make sure to put some grease in behind to support the nut so you can get get it started on the threaded rod. Also don't get the nut to thin on the sides else it could crack and break apart leaving two chunks in behind a bearing yet to be removed. Mine was cracked after the pull but it still held – no worries there either as a little digging with a dental pick would get them out easily.

Cheers
cmac

 

I tryed 3 hours trying to do everything i could thing of to get one out useing everything i could find in my garage. Then got pissed went to auto zone was less then 5min to get it out. Save time and hard work go to autozone and rent it.

 

I used the puller from autozone, I just put one jaw in there crooked and wedged it, then used the slidehammer and it came out like butter!

 

We rented the blind puller from AZ. It is $140 bucks but we got the bearing out in about 3 minutes tops. Well worth the money.

 

chisel and a bfh