Worn Clutch - Would it cause this?
07-22-2008, 11:17 AM
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Worn Clutch - Would it cause this? I'm having issues from my clutch not disengaging all the way, and causing a issue shifting from 1'st to 2nd
it grind
the clutch company RPS said this clutch is too heavy for the hydraulics (even though its been on the car for some 5-6k miles)
Could this clutch not disengaging all of the way, finally causing issues now to cause the grinding?
Basically, would a new clutch likely fix it, and my problem is NOT a syncro? Because I don't want to have a shop tear down my trans just on a whime to see if its the syncro or not
and I dont really want to replace the clutch, (worn or not) and then still have issues
nobody has really been able to offer some advice
any advice now?
it grind
the clutch company RPS said this clutch is too heavy for the hydraulics (even though its been on the car for some 5-6k miles)
Could this clutch not disengaging all of the way, finally causing issues now to cause the grinding?
Basically, would a new clutch likely fix it, and my problem is NOT a syncro? Because I don't want to have a shop tear down my trans just on a whime to see if its the syncro or not
and I dont really want to replace the clutch, (worn or not) and then still have issues
nobody has really been able to offer some advice
any advice now?
07-22-2008, 11:50 AM
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How much needs to be torn down to look at the 1st-2nd snycros to see if they are damaged?
is it just a matter of poping off a few bolts and I'm good? Or do you have to pull everything?
basically trying to see if it's worth wild to have a shop look at it, before I put everything back together with a new clutch.
is it just a matter of poping off a few bolts and I'm good? Or do you have to pull everything?
basically trying to see if it's worth wild to have a shop look at it, before I put everything back together with a new clutch.
07-22-2008, 07:57 PM
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repost:
How much needs to be torn down to look at the 1st-2nd snycros to see if they are damaged?
is it just a matter of poping off a few bolts and I'm good? Or do you have to pull everything?
basically trying to see if it's worth wild to have a shop look at it, before I put everything back together with a new clutch.
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How much needs to be torn down to look at the 1st-2nd snycros to see if they are damaged?
is it just a matter of poping off a few bolts and I'm good? Or do you have to pull everything?
basically trying to see if it's worth wild to have a shop look at it, before I put everything back together with a new clutch.
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07-22-2008, 09:31 PM
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Is there a step by step or anything?
my shop said they could rebuild it for 6 hours labor (just the trans, i'll pull it myself)
$58/hr
They rebuilt my trans in my WS6, I Viperized it
But I dont know how much a basic rebuild/upgrade kit (parts) cost
my shop said they could rebuild it for 6 hours labor (just the trans, i'll pull it myself)
$58/hr
They rebuilt my trans in my WS6, I Viperized it
But I dont know how much a basic rebuild/upgrade kit (parts) cost
07-22-2008, 09:38 PM
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found the tear down manual
I'm pretty mechanically inclined. I'd like to learn to be able to do this myself (I know I'll be doing it again in the future)
I just know there are some tools I don't have, like a press...but my buddies shop will let me use it
but according to Tremec, possible cause for grinding when shifting:
pilot bushing
clutch damage/alignment
hopefully its just the clutch, I ordered a new one
I just wonder if it'd be smart to take it apart while I have the car down also?
I'm pretty mechanically inclined. I'd like to learn to be able to do this myself (I know I'll be doing it again in the future)
I just know there are some tools I don't have, like a press...but my buddies shop will let me use it
but according to Tremec, possible cause for grinding when shifting:
pilot bushing
clutch damage/alignment
hopefully its just the clutch, I ordered a new one
I just wonder if it'd be smart to take it apart while I have the car down also?
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07-23-2008, 09:50 AM
#10
Typically an issue involving a single gear change scenario is not related to a clutch kit. Remember, the clutch does the same job whether you are shifting from 1st to 2nd or 6th to 5th. That being said, what you have described it more than likely a synchro problem.
The effort required for the hydraulics is also the same for each actuation of the clutch...meaning that it is not very likely that this is an issue with fluid transfer or weak hydraulics. If you were having this issue shifting into first or reverse gears only my response would be different as these shifts are most often performed from a stopped position and as such the load on the hydraulics and a lack of momentum can lead to issues. I hope this info helps. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!
The effort required for the hydraulics is also the same for each actuation of the clutch...meaning that it is not very likely that this is an issue with fluid transfer or weak hydraulics. If you were having this issue shifting into first or reverse gears only my response would be different as these shifts are most often performed from a stopped position and as such the load on the hydraulics and a lack of momentum can lead to issues. I hope this info helps. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!
07-23-2008, 10:16 AM
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Typically an issue involving a single gear change scenario is not related to a clutch kit. Remember, the clutch does the same job whether you are shifting from 1st to 2nd or 6th to 5th. That being said, what you have described it more than likely a synchro problem.
The effort required for the hydraulics is also the same for each actuation of the clutch...meaning that it is not very likely that this is an issue with fluid transfer or weak hydraulics. If you were having this issue shifting into first or reverse gears only my response would be different as these shifts are most often performed from a stopped position and as such the load on the hydraulics and a lack of momentum can lead to issues. I hope this info helps. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!
The effort required for the hydraulics is also the same for each actuation of the clutch...meaning that it is not very likely that this is an issue with fluid transfer or weak hydraulics. If you were having this issue shifting into first or reverse gears only my response would be different as these shifts are most often performed from a stopped position and as such the load on the hydraulics and a lack of momentum can lead to issues. I hope this info helps. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!
reverse takes some effort to say the least!
07-23-2008, 11:22 AM
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I rebuilt my trans and it was not hard at all. Took me and a buddy one solid day with some breaks here and there.
Just make sure you follow the directions, step by step. When I tore mine down we had a huge bench we could lay stuff out on in the order they came out. Took some pictures, and drew some diagrams.
Just take your time and its not too bad. I ordered my rebuild kit with steel 3-4 fork, and all the other goodies from ebay for somewhere around 200 I want to say.
Just make sure you follow the directions, step by step. When I tore mine down we had a huge bench we could lay stuff out on in the order they came out. Took some pictures, and drew some diagrams.
Just take your time and its not too bad. I ordered my rebuild kit with steel 3-4 fork, and all the other goodies from ebay for somewhere around 200 I want to say.
08-06-2008, 07:38 PM
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I'm brining this back...
I pulled the clutch and it was pretty worn, esp for the mileage that is on it. it def wasn't disengaging fully, everything wasn't worn flat.
so would a very worn clutch cause this grinding?
I pulled the clutch and it was pretty worn, esp for the mileage that is on it. it def wasn't disengaging fully, everything wasn't worn flat.
so would a very worn clutch cause this grinding?
08-07-2008, 12:02 PM
#15
No, a worn clutch, which would have a thinner disc and thus a taller diaphragm height...this would lead to a higher release and engagement point and would not lead to grinding. As alluded to above, griding is an issue associated with a clutch that is not fully releasing...or it is not related to the clutch at all. It's time to dig a little deeper. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!
08-07-2008, 02:16 PM
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No, a worn clutch, which would have a thinner disc and thus a taller diaphragm height...this would lead to a higher release and engagement point and would not lead to grinding. As alluded to above, griding is an issue associated with a clutch that is not fully releasing...or it is not related to the clutch at all. It's time to dig a little deeper. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!
may sound stupid....BUT....
08-17-2008, 09:03 PM
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I'm having issues from my clutch not disengaging all the way, and causing a issue shifting from 1'st to 2nd
it grind
the clutch company RPS said this clutch is too heavy for the hydraulics (even though its been on the car for some 5-6k miles)
Could this clutch not disengaging all of the way, finally causing issues now to cause the grinding?
Basically, would a new clutch likely fix it, and my problem is NOT a syncro? Because I don't want to have a shop tear down my trans just on a whime to see if its the syncro or not
and I dont really want to replace the clutch, (worn or not) and then still have issues
nobody has really been able to offer some advice
any advice now?
it grind
the clutch company RPS said this clutch is too heavy for the hydraulics (even though its been on the car for some 5-6k miles)
Could this clutch not disengaging all of the way, finally causing issues now to cause the grinding?
Basically, would a new clutch likely fix it, and my problem is NOT a syncro? Because I don't want to have a shop tear down my trans just on a whime to see if its the syncro or not
and I dont really want to replace the clutch, (worn or not) and then still have issues
nobody has really been able to offer some advice
any advice now?
So I pulled the pilot bearing out, it saw some heat. I think all of the dust from the clutch not disengaging (it was caked all over) packed into the pilot bearing and causes it to seize. Could this have prevented the input shaft from acting correctly, i.e. - dragging on the input shaft and causing the issues shifting??
