Grinding into 4th????
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From: Fort Collins, Colorado Springs
Grinding into 4th???? So about 5000 miles ago i put in a bran new textrallia clutch and flywheel, everything has been great now every now i am getting a pretty good vibration/rattle that i think is the tail shaft of the transmission and it grinds every time i shift to fourth unless i let the rpm come all the way back to idle before i push it into fourth also the clutch engages right off the floor wondering if the clutch is having a problem or if its just the tranny needing rebuilt thanks for any input.
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From: Fort Collins, Colorado Springs
ok so more information on the issue today as i was setting in the car i was getting a pretty bad rattle from what sounded like where the clutch is i always figured it might be the drive shaft out of balance but it was doing it while i was parked with the engine running clutch in out in gear out of gear it didnt make any difference.
I was just about ready to make a thread about this....
I replaced my tranny, clutch, throwout bearing, pilot bearing and resurfaced my flywheel. Everything is running great......well it was.
This morning driving to work I let the RPM's get over 3K before shifting into 4th and when I did it grinded really bad. That is the only gear it does it in and it will only do it if I shift fast or shift high in the powerband.
I rebuilt the Tranny with a Tick Performance stage 2 kit. The clutch does engage right off the floor also.
Any help would be appreciated guys.
I replaced my tranny, clutch, throwout bearing, pilot bearing and resurfaced my flywheel. Everything is running great......well it was.
This morning driving to work I let the RPM's get over 3K before shifting into 4th and when I did it grinded really bad. That is the only gear it does it in and it will only do it if I shift fast or shift high in the powerband.
I rebuilt the Tranny with a Tick Performance stage 2 kit. The clutch does engage right off the floor also.
Any help would be appreciated guys.
I was just about ready to make a thread about this....
I replaced my tranny, clutch, throwout bearing, pilot bearing and resurfaced my flywheel. Everything is running great......well it was.
This morning driving to work I let the RPM's get over 3K before shifting into 4th and when I did it grinded really bad. That is the only gear it does it in and it will only do it if I shift fast or shift high in the powerband.
I rebuilt the Tranny with a Tick Performance stage 2 kit. The clutch does engage right off the floor also.
Any help would be appreciated guys.
I replaced my tranny, clutch, throwout bearing, pilot bearing and resurfaced my flywheel. Everything is running great......well it was.
This morning driving to work I let the RPM's get over 3K before shifting into 4th and when I did it grinded really bad. That is the only gear it does it in and it will only do it if I shift fast or shift high in the powerband.
I rebuilt the Tranny with a Tick Performance stage 2 kit. The clutch does engage right off the floor also.
Any help would be appreciated guys.
If the clutch engages really close to the floor, see if you can tell if its dragging. With the car sitting on level ground and the transmission in first gear, and clutch pedal pressed all the way down rev the engine to 5000+ rpms and see if the car tries to creep foward. If it does, you're not getting a complete release and that could be the cause of your grind.
Second question, will an adjustable MC take care of the problem??? I have a brand new GM one I did the drill mod on, so I will just make it adjustable.
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From: Fort Collins, Colorado Springs
DopdBrd it will not hurt the new clutch or tanny to do this as you will not let up on the clutch pedal while in the high rpm therefor power will not go through your drive train. Jonathan@tick i have done this many times i am getting fully engaged as it will no creep no matter how high i rev it in gear with the clutch pedal down so i am at a loss about to just rip the tranny out of there and see what i can find
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having delt with the same problem and working with a clutch system as much as i have been the last year or so i would say you need to either
bleed the clutch line and i would take the master and tip it up and push in the master cylinder and have someone look if you have bubbles come out the resivour. but since that is such a pain in the a$$ it might be worth buying ADJUSTABLE master cylinder. that is what i did. i bought the mcCloyd adjustable master and when i took the old one out i had a bunch of bubbles come out of the cylinder up to the resivour that was causing my peddle engagement to be on the floor and it sucked!!!!
putting a new adjustable master in there should solve this problem and take care of anything down the road. its so nice being able to adjust that to where I want it i love it. moved it twice already since i put it in this spring
bleed the clutch line and i would take the master and tip it up and push in the master cylinder and have someone look if you have bubbles come out the resivour. but since that is such a pain in the a$$ it might be worth buying ADJUSTABLE master cylinder. that is what i did. i bought the mcCloyd adjustable master and when i took the old one out i had a bunch of bubbles come out of the cylinder up to the resivour that was causing my peddle engagement to be on the floor and it sucked!!!!
putting a new adjustable master in there should solve this problem and take care of anything down the road. its so nice being able to adjust that to where I want it i love it. moved it twice already since i put it in this spring
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Verdad Gallardo I just did the 5000 RPM test and it did not go anywhere.
So before I tear out my brand new MC and make it adjustable, is this what is causing it or could it be something else?
So before I tear out my brand new MC and make it adjustable, is this what is causing it or could it be something else?
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From: Fort Collins, Colorado Springs
im not too sure what to tell you as i am in the same boat 
from what i have heard about is either the adjustable master or maybe the syncro is going bad and the tranny needs a overhaul.
from what i have heard about is either the adjustable master or maybe the syncro is going bad and the tranny needs a overhaul. if this is a problem that just started out of no where then i would put money on it being new part issues not the transmission. if you just put a brand new master cylinder in it and its now causing issues like low pedal engagement and grinds gears its because you're not getting full pedal and as soon as that clutch fluid gets a little warmer you're gonna lose even more pedal. jack the front end of the car up and unbolt the master from the fire wall tip it up as much as you can and see if any bubbles come out of it. works best to have someone help watch. you should also try and push it in while dismounted and tipped up. so have someone hold it or find a way for them to hold it in place while pushing the master in by hand.
the clutch line should be hooked up the whole time. the master will not compress with the line off.
the clutch line should be hooked up the whole time. the master will not compress with the line off.
it may just save the headache it causes lol.if the resivor got dry at all during clutch install and such the master probably got air-locked. i went thru it as well. was gonna go thru the work of taking it out and bleeding it but it can be a hassle and i was not sure at all so i bought an adjustable. during removal i tipped it up to get it out and got a bunch of bubbles out of it
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Thread Starter
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From: Fort Collins, Colorado Springs
Alright Guys I checked out the car a bit more and realized that the rattle i was hearing is just the torque arm. however my clutch is not fully disengaging because i lifted up the rear axle got the tires off the ground and put it in gear and the tires started turning so from this comes my question how do i make the clutch fully disengage? Adjustable master cylinder?
