LT1 clutch question
LT1 clutch question I am in the middle of doing an A4-M6 swap in my 94 Z and have come across a lot of different opinions. Tell me what you guys are running now and weather you like it or wish you had gone a different route. I have everything I need to complete the install except for the clutch and flywheel. My motor is practically stock aside from a cat back. I don't want to use a factory replacment because I don't want to have to swap it out in a year or so just because I clean up the heads and put in a cam. I was looking at a ram or centerforce clutch but am unsure because I've never had to purchase a clutch set before. Thanks.
I know I destroyed a centerforce dual friction at 300rwhp. I didn't really break it in, but that shouldn't have been why the whole thing went to ****.
I replaced that with a Hays street/strip, and it held up well. Who knows how long it would have lasted had I not had a leaky rear main seal, but I was happy with it.
This time I went the custom route and it cost me less than $500 and is supposed to hold the 550rwhp I want to throw at it.
I replaced that with a Hays street/strip, and it held up well. Who knows how long it would have lasted had I not had a leaky rear main seal, but I was happy with it.
This time I went the custom route and it cost me less than $500 and is supposed to hold the 550rwhp I want to throw at it.
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a 'stock" replacement from a auto parts store will work fine on a "stock" car. If head/cam are in the future than My $02 is ZOOM HP Kevlar disc clutch. $550 @ Summit
Break in whatever clutch you get and use a resurfaced or new FW
Break in whatever clutch you get and use a resurfaced or new FW
Thanks guys. I was considering a stock flywheel and clutch so I called napa because we get a killer deal on parts through there and was going to just get the stock replacement. They have the Zoom Hp for 409.00 with my discount and an aluminuim flywheel for 377.00 I was wondering if this was a good deal. A friend of mine has the mcleod clutch (I think that's the name) and was telling me for any heads, cam car that the zoom should be plenty. Anyway I thought it was pretty cool that napa can actually order the zoom clutches.
Dont waste the time on an aluminum flywheel. It wont gain you anything. If you drag race your car it will actually hurt your launch because of the loss of inertia from the heavier steel flywheel. Dont go with a centerforce. I had ZERO luck with 3 of them. Id go with a SPEC 2 or 3. They are both nice clutches. The biggest thing to remember is propperly breaking in the clutch is VERY important. Give any clutch you buy 1500-2000 miles of NORMAL driving to break in. I gave my SPEC4 a full 2000 miles to break in and mine lasted 40,000 miles!!! My friend installed his at the same time as me and only gave his the "recommended" 500 mile break-in and his lasted 8,000..... That kinda speaks for itself.
Yea man.. the Aluminum Flywheel will kill you in Drag Racing, they are not recommended for it. I'm getting a 18lb Billet one for mine.
How close are you getting it to complete? You better have it done before I get back..lol
I want to see you run CB on the highway and pull his ***..
How close are you getting it to complete? You better have it done before I get back..lol
I want to see you run CB on the highway and pull his ***..
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Yea man.. the Aluminum Flywheel will kill you in Drag Racing, they are not recommended for it. I'm getting a 18lb Billet one for mine.
How close are you getting it to complete? You better have it done before I get back..lol
I want to see you run CB on the highway and pull his ***..
How close are you getting it to complete? You better have it done before I get back..lol
I want to see you run CB on the highway and pull his ***..
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Verdad Gallardo I got to install everything..lol
I'm buyin all my **** while I'm here(B&M Shifter, White 6spd **** for it, 3.89 Gears, Textralia Clutch & Flywheel Kit, Slave Cyl.), the Tranny's gettin built by Six Speeds..then when I get back I'm paying for the rest of the Transmission, so that will get shipped to me, then I'm moving back to J-ville, so I probably won't get to the car until March sometime. But when I do, it's getting Tuned by a local guy to get everything setup in the PCM for the T56 and the Gears, then it's all going together at once.
I'll try to get CB to mess with me, but I think he knows that the Goat has too much of a fat ***..lol
I'm buyin all my **** while I'm here(B&M Shifter, White 6spd **** for it, 3.89 Gears, Textralia Clutch & Flywheel Kit, Slave Cyl.), the Tranny's gettin built by Six Speeds..then when I get back I'm paying for the rest of the Transmission, so that will get shipped to me, then I'm moving back to J-ville, so I probably won't get to the car until March sometime. But when I do, it's getting Tuned by a local guy to get everything setup in the PCM for the T56 and the Gears, then it's all going together at once.
I'll try to get CB to mess with me, but I think he knows that the Goat has too much of a fat ***..lol
Oh yea, forgot..
I got to take the fckn interior back out of it again and re-inforce the Tunnel Brace Mounting Points for the UMI Torque Arm Cross Member that I have. Me and some people were pushing it on the Trailer to bring it to Storage right before I left, and that Cross Member caught just right and ripped the mother ****** right off the bottom of the Car.
So I'm going to get in there with some 3/16" plate steel about 4" wide by however long it needs to be, cut out the body sheet metal in the area where the mounts were, weld the plate steel inbetween the Seat Frame Rails, and then use that to weld the Brackets to it on the underside. If need be, I'll make some shims if it's not low enough, but it should be close, the body sheet metal is really thin. Then seal it all up so it doesn't rust n' ****.
I had some 3/16" pieces of steel welded on the UMI Cross Member as skidplates, but the way I designed them was to work when the car was going forward. They worked very well. I had one on the backside as well, but it wasn't as good as the front one. We pushed the car up on the tralier cause that was the only way we had to do it, and that's what caused it to rip off..
**** happens, build it better..
I got to take the fckn interior back out of it again and re-inforce the Tunnel Brace Mounting Points for the UMI Torque Arm Cross Member that I have. Me and some people were pushing it on the Trailer to bring it to Storage right before I left, and that Cross Member caught just right and ripped the mother ****** right off the bottom of the Car.
So I'm going to get in there with some 3/16" plate steel about 4" wide by however long it needs to be, cut out the body sheet metal in the area where the mounts were, weld the plate steel inbetween the Seat Frame Rails, and then use that to weld the Brackets to it on the underside. If need be, I'll make some shims if it's not low enough, but it should be close, the body sheet metal is really thin. Then seal it all up so it doesn't rust n' ****.
I had some 3/16" pieces of steel welded on the UMI Cross Member as skidplates, but the way I designed them was to work when the car was going forward. They worked very well. I had one on the backside as well, but it wasn't as good as the front one. We pushed the car up on the tralier cause that was the only way we had to do it, and that's what caused it to rip off..
**** happens, build it better..
Last edited by the_merv; Oct 9, 2008 at 08:28 PM.
iv got a spec 2. had alot of chatter issues when new, and the release bearing broke on me. i was on the edge of warranty and they sent me a spec 3 release bearing. working fine now. there is a little chatter still buts it very livable. iv had it in for a little over 4 months daily driven with the Ai cam in my sig.
